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Prophylactic treatment of cryptocaryon irritans (ich)

Posted 03/17/2014 at 08:41 AM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 05:33 PM by snorvich

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As a prophylactic methodology for ich (and only ich), tank transfer will result in 100% success rate with healthy fish. I agree only one fish at a time is desirable. Any other prophylactic methodology has a risk (be it chloroquine phosphate, hyposalinity, or copper) because for ich, the first part of the life cycle is highly predictable from a time perspective, whereas the back end of the life cycle is not. The timing of theront emission is highly variable, normally up to 28 days, but depending
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Why I prefer tank transfer for curing cryptocaryon irritans (ich)

Posted 03/16/2014 at 11:35 AM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 05:33 PM by snorvich

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By the way, the reason I recommend tank transfer above all other treatments for ich (cryptocaryon irritans) is because of the nature of the life cycle.

The front end of the life cycle has the least variation of time for each stage and it begins with the trophont.

The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically
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Using Cupramine to treat cryptocaryon irritans

Posted 03/16/2014 at 11:13 AM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 05:34 PM by snorvich

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For cupramine, the instructions may be a bit fuzzy. Generally folks here feel that the 0.5mg/l dose they recommend is too high and too aggressive. Try dosing at 0.35-0.40 and keep it there for the 4 week period. Also ramp up the dose slowly over 5-7 days to give the fish time to acclimate better.

Cupramine Dosing Formula / Calculator

(.381) * (strength of dose) * (gallons being treated) = mL of Cupramine to dose

Example: (.381) * (.5mg/L) * (10.5 gallons) =
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Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.

Coming from the freshwater world to a marine tank: the differences

Posted 03/15/2014 at 12:12 PM by Sk8r

Freshwater hobby to Saltwater hobby: the differences.
1. salt, obviously. The salinity level of a tank should not bounce around. Use of an ATO (autotopoff) is recommended.

2. ph becomes a fairly useless reading: track alkalinity instead. PH rises and falls during any single day. Alk is tightly locked to the calcium and magnesium in your tank. If one depletes, readings will start to fall. Keep the mg around 1200-1300, keep the calcium about 420, and the alk around 8.3-9.3 and...
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Diagnosis of Problems in Marine Fish

Posted 03/11/2014 at 11:14 AM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 05:35 PM by snorvich

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Diagnosis of Problems

Tiny white dots on body or fins (looks like salt)
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)


Gold, brown or rust colored patches on body
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)


Tiny black dots on body or fins
Research:
a) Black Ich (parasite)


Raised white bumps on body or fins which looks lumpy
Research:
a) Lymphocystis (viral)
b) Fungal Infection
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