Third dose today of 30ml today. I don't know if it is cocidence but several large snails were belly up this morning.

Are you using the "marine" version?

I have been using the marine version for 10 doses. I have a ton of hair algae and some bubble algae. It did not make a dent in the hair or bubble algae. I have noticed a few dead snails. I don't know if that is from the AlgaeFix or the fact that they probably didn't have much food since they would not eat the hair algae. It also killed my cheato but it did kill all the calerapera in the tank.

Unfortunately, I sounds like this product will not work for your tank.

I believe HighlandReefer said after about 10 doses, if you don't notice a change, to stop dosing.


I'd wait for him to chime in, to be sure. It has been known to kill off macro algae though, that I do know. It stunted my Cheateo, I just decided to toss it, and use GFO/carbon. So far, so good.

I used the AlgaeFix Marine for quite a bit longer than 10 doses. It did kill my chaeto at around 12-14 doses. Other hobbyists have reported this also. Once you reach 10 doses or more, I would be very carefull and keep a close watch on your organisms.

My green hair algae was controlled fairly quickly at around 6 doses. The red cyano disappeared at around two months of dosing. The blue-green cyano I am fighting was knocked back by the algaefix but did not go away completely. This is a one tough hombre and I am still trying to ID it:
(The blue colored organism is what I believe is a red cyano)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...ed---blueg.jpg

It would seem that the amount you dose is an important factor also. What are the amounts you are dosing, and have you notice any bleaching of corals?

Shark Bait100,

I would not deviate from the dosage recommendation on the label. At least one hobbyist got himself in trouble by dosing the proper amount every day for a while.

As far as coral bleaching or problems, it does not seem to be a problem when following the labeled directions. After around the 10th dose is when some hobbyists have reported some problems with their coral appearance.

Just realized the new bottle of algaaefix i've been using for the past 5 doses is for Freshwater! And FYI, the freshwater is damaging my stonies. I have 3 colonies bleaching at the bases. Not RTN as its going slowly, but definately TN. Cant believe I made that bonehead mistake. They were right beside eachother.

Did you notice some of your CuC turned over? I did.. and switched to the Marine version.

There is some speculation as to what is in the FW version, which is why I stopped using it. And the fact I lost a few pieces of my CuC, which isn't just an ordinary CuC. Very exclusive creatures I have...

Perhaps running a poly-filter will help out with this. It will remove copper.

Poly-Filter color changes (Things it will remove):
http://www.reeflink.com/reeflink/pol...or_changes.htm

If you do decide to run a poly-filter and it does change colors indicating copper is present, then this would definitely add to the possibility that the freshwater version does contain copper.

What does blue-green cyano look like?
Can you get a picture of what it looks like in your tank?

here are types I am dealing with.............I know it looks Ugly :(
I am willing to try anything to kill theses pest even if it means dosing Vodka/Algaefix/chemiclean what ever.
Enjoy the Ugly Pictures
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...4algea5555.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...gea444-med.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...64algea111.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...4algea2222.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...4algea3333.jpg

:(

Haole,

I will get some new batteries for my camera and take pictures of the blue-green cyanobacteria tomorrow.

After further looking at my pest though the scope, I have found that what I have is mostly the blue-green cyano. The picture above is a green algae and I believe it is a siphoning algae, Derbesia sp. from the best I can tell at this point. I had the Derbesia in my tank and the AlgaeFix pretty much eliminated it.

Now I have this blue green cyano which the AlgaeFix slowed down while I was dosing, but would not get rid of it. I have since discontinued the AlgaeFix. I'll probably try some Erythromycin on it next.

trueblackpercula,

I see what I believe is bubble algae. The other is hard to tell. Is it possible to get some close-up shots?

Some hobbyists claimed that the bubble algae was not affected much, while others have stated that perhaps the algaefix did work on it. I really don't know if it will work for your bubble algae.

I dosed my 07th dose today,I can see a slight improvement but that could be because of my nitrate reducing to zero due to denitrator usage and also because of GFO usage.My GHA has increased from the earlier stage but has been reducing gradually.

CuC? Not familiar with that.
I did do a 50% waterchange and dosed with the marine version. sofar, looks good. TN has slowed/stopped. Up side; algae's pretty much gone!

Clean-up Crew

Dosed my 5th dose today...still no difference that i can see. Haven't tried pulling any more manually. On a positive note....everything still looks good in the tank. Maybe the 6th or 7th dose will start working but i'm not holding my breath. Should i/ can i do water changes or will this dilute the Algaefix?
What are you guys using to strain your frozen food...looking for ideas. I want to minimize my phosphates and this is the only thing i haven't tried.
If all this doesn't work, I guess i'll buy new live rock / sand and cook the crap out of it. Replace it all when it's done.

Well, larger quantity tanks usually take a lot longer than my 14g tank.

Can't comment on doing a WC. I dose AlgaeFix AFTER the WC. And a typical WC last's me two weeks.

For frozen food, I use RODI water (TDS 1)

IF all else fails, and HighlandReefer replies, just buy 80% base/dead rock, and a handful of real LR, if you don't mind waiting for colors to appear. I personally don't like the look of dead base rock (white), so I went for 100% hand-picked DFS rock. Mostly the aquacultured stuff from DFS that my LFS orders.

How exactly are you straining it...do you have a little stainless steel strainer? What do you use?

God, what was I thinking? LOL my grammar just slipped.. have no idea how/why it came out that way. :o


Well, I have just been using a small cup with a teeny tiny chunk of Rod's Food. Pour in a little RODI water, let it break up, swirl it around for a few minutes than I do my best to drain the water, by using the lid to control the flow. I mean I let some go, but I catch a decent amount, enough to feed my little 14g 1-2x a week.


There's got to be better ideas for larger tanks. I use a "pinch and a half" or about the size of a nickel for food.


I am also using a "micro" phosban reactor as well to catch any/all phosphates.

Thanks for the clarification. That's what i figured...just thought i'd ask. I've got a few fish so i feed 3 cubes of something, daily. If not, my angel gets ****y and starts picking.
Can anyone tell my HOW much PO4 is in a cube of , let's say, anything frozen and "meaty"? It'd be interesting to know the info on something like that. I just figured there wouldn't be enough to amount to anything.
I also use the full size phosban reactor with Rowa Phos GFO.

There's nothing about how much P04/nitrate/nitrites etc. are in any given cube. Depends if they were frozen with/without any % of water, and if so, was is filtered (RO or RODI water), the contents, etc. etc.



Anything uneaten can be turned into phosphate so I'm told. Hence why I feed Rod's Food only 1-2x a week. Depends on my mood for the second feeding.

For some reason my fish like it, but don't go nuts for it, so I feed accordingly. They eat it, but some fish go NUTS for this stuff. Not mine... but regular feeding of Elos Complete (Nitrate/phosphate FREE!) pellet every day though.

Necessary Nutrition, Foods and Supplements, A Preliminary Investigation
http://web.archive.org/web/200107200...data/foods.asp