I dose to a 265 plus the sump, and I have been adding 25mL every 3rd day to the location in the sump that is farthest from going into the display. On the 3rd dose today I bumped up to 30mL and will likely do that on the 4th and 5th dose as well.

I will retest nitrate and phosphate later today, but when I started it was zero for both.

jrw,
I'm glad to hear some else with a large system is dosing too.
Have you notice any die off?
Do you have any lps in the tank?

Ed&Sandy,

You may be the largest system that I have been following so far. To be honest, I have not been looking for this aspect of AlgaeFix dosing until now. ;)

FWIW, it would not surprise me if it were established that there is a maximum amount of AlgaeFix that should added to a larger system at one time.

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Jrw,

I will following your results with your size system as well. Please keep us posted. :)

Now I am curious as to what size system the other hobbyist who experienced damages to his coral has. This was in another thread.

No die off noticed yet, except for the green hair algae.

The only LPS is Euphyllia anchora and blastomussa merletti.

A few SPS, acros, montis, etc.

RBTA's doing fine, fish OK, zoanthids doing fine. In fact some things seem to be improving now that the hair algae is going away.

I have been brushing off the dead pieces and my skimmer has been skimming them out.

Cliff,
I will for sure keep all posted.

P.S. I'm a new member of WAMAS getting ready to move back. Noticed your avatar over there too.

My nitrates and phosphates tonight were zero as well. I must have some other nutrient fueling this growth that we are not testing for.

Jrw,

Welcome to WAMAS. :)

Even if you have a zero reading with the best test kits, there is always some available after you feed to keep algae growth going. Low nitrate and phosphate levels will help to control the algae growth. In some cases you may be fighting a cyanobacteria, which resemble many algae. In this case, the cyano can take up nutrients directly from food before it can be broken down and do not need nitrate & phosphate to survive.

Notice the resemblance of this cyanobacteria to many algae:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_puTVILFyI9...Hair-algae.jpg

Did you account for the water volume displaced by the LR? If not, you could be running into an overdose problem with the corals being affected.

Hummmmmmmmmmmm,
I'm certain Ed accounted the LR and SB.......

If I am overdosing would the GHA be dyeing off faster, not growing?????

I'm so :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

We keep pulling the GHA out daily, hoping for the best here!
I will try and a top down photo today to show how bad it is in certain places.....
like the BOTTOM rock of the aquascaping, of course! :mad2:
I hope I don't have to remove the rocks and cook them!
I don't even know how to cook them!

This is the rock I'm talking about on the bottom of the aquascaping, and it has the most GHA

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...A/DSC_0513.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...A/DSC_0512.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...A/DSC_0515.jpg


this area had alot of die off, but now seems to be growing back

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...A/DSC_0510.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...A/DSC_0511.jpg

I know the glass is dirty :(

Does this stuff have plumose branching. I can't tell from the picture, but it is does have a course appearance. Is it a blue-green color or a regular green color?

Boomer has much more experience in IDing these pests than I do. Give me some insects to ID, I can deal with that much better. :D

Cliff,
I'm sure about the plumose branching, I would say no..... the color is a dark green.
It is not course, when we pull it out of the tank it feels soft.

I just purchased a book at Boomer's suggestion. In most cases you will need to look at it under a scope to properly ID it, unless you are very familiar with it (which is not my case). As far as pictures go there are too many possibilities in this book that resemble your pest. If you are able to see the base attachment and it is a blue-green color, then in many cases it could be cyano. According to Boomer, many bubbles in the plant growth may indicate a cyano also. A general rule of thumb which does not apply in all cases is that cyano is blue-green in color and most true algae is green in color. :)

I'm interested in reading the book Boomer suggested to you.
I am able to see the base attachment and it is not blue-green in color. It is green.

I had just turned the pumps on, I am thinking that is where the bubbles came from. There is no bubbles on it on.

I wonder why Murphy is visiting my tank :(

I am seeing to much stress on the tank to continue dosing the 37mls... How much are you dosing?
Everyone seems to have had such good results using this product.

I will go back to the RC calculator and see if we measured something wrong.

I haven't seen my cocoa worm in 2 days. 1 of the starfish is finally moving and the other looks like it is hiding. :(


We are doing a 60 gallon water change out this week end, and Ed will be scrubbing the rocks with a stainless steel brush while I siphone out as much as I can of the GHA.



BTW, I just measured my NO3 and it is 0 and the PO4 is 0.......
I just replaced my filters on our RO/DI unit a few weeks ago and the TDS measures 0.
Oh, just to make sure I measured the RO/DI water for NO3 and it measures 0.

If you can think of anything else, please let us know.

Caribbean Reef Plants (Hardcover)

http://www.amazon.com/Caribbean-Plan.../dp/0967890101

If I think of anything else, I will certainly bring it up. :(

TY :)

As a double check against the calculator, the formula is quite easy for a rectangular tank.

Length x Width x Height, than divide that number by 231, the answer will be in gallons. All measurements need to be made in inches, and of course must be the inside the tank measurements, with height being the height at the actual water level. After this calculation, you need to remember to deduct how many gallons your live rock and any overflow boxes take up to figure out how much water your tank actually holds.

Well guys i just got my algaefix marine today and dosed to a 90 gal tank+30 gal sump-rocks-corals-sand-equipment in sump-about 5 gal for backsiphon= 90 gal. so 10ml for the tank, i will keep you guys informed, every 3 days, wish me luck

Sana

sanababit,

Thanks for contributing your experiences with AlgaeFix Marine. ;)

Got pictures of your pest? :)

I have been thinking about reducing the recommend amount for your system by 1/2, and applying that amount directly to the GHA.
What do you think????

Just wanted to add my recent experiences with AlgaeFix to this thread. I had a massive hair algae outbreak in my 39g tank, and after all the 'standard' fixes failed, I decided to give AlgaeFix a shot, based on what I'd read here.

I actually only used two doses, as the second treatment, along with thorough rock scrubbing and detritus removal did the trick. It's been three weeks, and the hair algae shows no sign of return.

Now, I've got a new problem, though, and it's one others have mentioned. I've got cyano issues. Every day I see cyano growth, especially on the sand bed. I can easily turkey baste it away, but it's back within a couple of hours. Tank parameters seem great... nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, and silicate are all at undetectable levels. I'd really like to figure this one out too.

CC

The idea of getting the AlgaeFix directly on the green hair algae before it contacts other things that may absorb it, sounds like a good idea to me. Perhaps a turkey baster may work? If you decide to try it, keep us posted. ;)

California Crow,

Thanks for sharing your success with AlgaeFix Marine regarding your algae problem.

The red (purple) cyano can be a real problem. Many hobbyists have used Erythromycin with some success. Many have reported that it returns after treatment (Randy has experienced this). Perhaps the treatment process with the antibiotics may need to be made for longer periods of time to completely eradicate it. Other than that, most who stay on top of it eventually win. I have some myself and I don't believe that the AlgaeFix is going to take care of it. :(

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot, as I'm pretty much out of the normal options. I've cut back on photoperiod, am being very frugal with feedings, running GAC and GFO. and skimming. It's a frustrating thing, as I've never had a tank that looked as good as this on paper, but as bad as this face to face. :)

CC

Chemi-clean by Boyd's has worked well for me in the past for cyanobacteria. I can't remember the last time I used it, but I don't think it is an antibiotic.