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01/19/2007, 10:30 PM | #1 |
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Nitrates in a FOWLR Tank?
I noticed that my nitrates are about 20ppm, altho ammonia and nitrites are 0.
What could be the cause? I do a 10% water change ever 2 weeks, and how does that affect a FOWLR tank? |
01/19/2007, 10:39 PM | #2 |
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Probably in your filtration. Are you using any mechanical or bio media in your filters? How much live rock do you have and what size tank is it?
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-Brett 180g Marineland Starfire In-Wall 278 gallon system |
01/19/2007, 10:43 PM | #3 |
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Yes, I have a wet/dry with filter floss and bio balls - I know the bio balls can be nitrate factories, I am planning to get rid of them. I got a 54 gallon with about 45 lbs of LR and 40 lbs of LS.
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01/19/2007, 10:50 PM | #4 |
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Well, that's it! The filter floss and bio balls harbor detritus that create nitrate. Thus, the reason many 'reef' tanks shy away from this type of filtration. Probably not an issue since it's just a fowlr at this point, but you will want to do something about the style of filtration if you ever add corals. If/when this time comes I'd add a few more pounds of live rock so when you take the bio balls out the live rock can keep up with the bio filtration.
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-Brett 180g Marineland Starfire In-Wall 278 gallon system |
01/19/2007, 10:58 PM | #5 |
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thanks drummereef,,
So, the filter floss also needs to be removed? If so, how would the large particles be filtered out? Also, the high nitrates only affect corals? and not fish? inverts? |
01/19/2007, 11:08 PM | #6 |
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There's really no need for mechanical filtration in a reef tank, imo. Basically the floss was more for the bio balls than anything, which is adding to the overall prob. Focus more on bio filtration from the live rock and implementing a chemical filter (like carbon) if needed. 20ppm isn't terrible when it comes to nitrates. The fish will have minimal effects from this. Corals/inverts won't like it much. If you end up removing the bio balls, do it slowly. Remove over the course of a month or so in small amounts to allow the rock take up the bio load.
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-Brett 180g Marineland Starfire In-Wall 278 gallon system |
01/19/2007, 11:14 PM | #7 |
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Thanks drummer. So, when I start removing the bio balls, would it be fine to leave the LR in the tank? or will I need to put a few pieces in the sump?
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01/19/2007, 11:42 PM | #8 |
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Not a problem at all. Just leave your display rock in the tank. If you add some live rock to the sump then you've basically created a fuge of sorts. You can keep the sump a sump and just house your heater(s), probes, carbon, etc... or if you choose, you can add some live rock and perhaps some macro algae to help with nutrient reduction. Depending on how your sump is laid out you may have to do a little diy to get a fuge going - baffles, light and such. Hope this helps.
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-Brett 180g Marineland Starfire In-Wall 278 gallon system |
01/20/2007, 08:34 AM | #9 |
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yeah thanks, helps alot! The only thing thats bothering me is the lack of space. I have a corner tank, and the space underneath is bery limited, so it might be a little tough to have a fuge with light and stuff, maybe just have a sump with LR.
So, if I were to have a sump, I would just place the LR in the same location the bio balls where placed? and leave the rest for heater probe, pumps, and so on? Another question, you said carbon, what would that be used for? |
01/20/2007, 10:02 AM | #10 |
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20 ppm is really nothing to worry about in a fowlr, imo. Removing the bioballs, etc will help lower it, and lowering it is always a plus.
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