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01/25/2007, 12:08 AM | #1 |
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Location: Lewiston, Idaho
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Auto Top off question??
I have been looking at a lot of auto top off systems and see that everyone is using 12Volt relays and 9 volt batteries to run them. Why couldn't you or why don't you use a 120 Volt relay and just wire it to use a regular plug in?? I don't understand the point of the 12volt relay system.
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01/25/2007, 02:15 AM | #2 |
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One reason would be for a power outage.
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01/25/2007, 03:06 AM | #3 |
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Another reason is safety. In case of electrical leak from wiring and / or float switches, it is safer to run 12V though the tank than 120V.
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01/25/2007, 03:16 AM | #4 |
-CSHFLW
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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Main reason is to keep 120V AC from entering the tank via a DIY kit. Also, the float switches use a reed switch with is not designed or rated for 120V AC however some have used them that way with no problems but why take the chance. Here is a good description: http://www.aquahub.com/store/curingspik.html
Saltwater is very conductive compared to freshwater! HTH Jay
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01/25/2007, 06:08 AM | #5 |
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There are lots of float switches rated for 120 volts and you are generally using a submesible pump of some sort or heater that is allowing 120Volts to contact the water also. I was just wondering if that was the only reason. I have 120 volt float swithces and 120 volt relays and was wondering if there was any specific reason why not to use them?
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01/25/2007, 06:26 AM | #6 |
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I wouldn't see why not. I'd suggest a grounding probe in the tank though, just to be safe and protect against stray voltage.
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01/25/2007, 07:24 AM | #7 |
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I have a gravity fed one that works on 0 volts. I've never understood why people go with float valves and power pumps. Perhaps it's a bit more "high tech", but a siphon based system works fine too.
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01/25/2007, 08:12 AM | #8 |
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I have the nivaumat from AquaMedic. I HIGHLY recommend this one. It works awesome, and my tank is 100% always the same level. It was $100, but well worth the cost. I now just keep a 5gal container of water under the tank which lasts me almost 2 weeks.
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01/25/2007, 08:28 AM | #9 |
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The arc created by 9 volts is LESS LIKELY than the arc created by 120 volts to weld the contacts when the switch is activated.
It is a safety measure to keep the ATO form overflowing your tank. |
01/25/2007, 10:26 AM | #10 |
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I use the double switch from autotopoff.com, works great.
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01/25/2007, 10:31 AM | #11 | |
Moved On
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Quote:
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01/25/2007, 10:41 AM | #12 |
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I also use a double switch like what autotopoff recommends.
I use float switches from Graingers that are a little more heavy duty that what they sell. The HVAC industry uses many float switches for evaporative pumps. They are rated for longer use that the cheaper ones. Same basic system though. It works GREAT! |
01/25/2007, 10:24 PM | #13 |
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goreefer the system you use is 120 volts or 12? The float switches I have are from Graingers also and they are heavy duty. I think that I will use this system as I think it will be safe with two float swithces and a relay rated at 100 AMPS.
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01/26/2007, 10:11 PM | #14 |
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I'm with Shagsbeard. A topoff tank with float swith connected directly to my RO/DI = full tank all the time. Topoff tank connected to float switch in sump = 0 volts & no worries.
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01/27/2007, 12:19 PM | #15 |
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scottwhitson,
I use a 12 volt relay to turn on/off two aqualifter pumps. My feeling is that it is not the 120 volts running through the tank, but the 120 volts welding the reed switches shut that worries me. I have three 120 volt powerheads already in my tank, so the 120 volts is already there. If you have never taken apart one of the float switches they are a simple magnetically activated switch. The magnet is in the float. I use a old cell phone charger to power the relay. I think that it is 200ma, so there is not a lot of power to weld the contacts. I use two of the aqualifters because one will not pump high enough to go from the bottom of my reservoir tank into my HOB sump. They are hooked up in series. |
01/27/2007, 07:22 PM | #16 |
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Thanks everyone for the information.
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