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Unread 04/09/2007, 05:24 AM   #1
hoyta
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ball valve between sump and ext return pump?

Hey everyone! I was starting to plumb my tank last night, and realized the pump won't fit in my stand with the ball valve attached. I had it between the sump(drilled for it) and the return pump. I can put a 90 degree elbow at the end of the valve to the pump, or just take the ball valve off completely. I do have another barbed valve in the return line to stop syphoning...
Thanks in advance!-Adam


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Unread 04/09/2007, 05:36 AM   #2
jdieck
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Install the valve inside the sump if you have room.
Alternatively use a bulkhead which is threaded also on the inside or install a female adapter. This way when you need to remove the pump for maintenance you can just use a threaded plug to shut the water off, otherwise you will need to empty the sump everytime the pump needs maintenance.


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 04/09/2007, 08:28 AM   #3
hoyta
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whoa, perfect answer! I forgot about installing the ball valve on the inside! The bulkhead is threaded, which will help alot... Thanks for talking some sense into me


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Current Tank Info: 34 g Solana
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Unread 04/09/2007, 09:13 AM   #4
andyjd
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdieck
Install the valve inside the sump if you have room.
Alternatively use a bulkhead which is threaded also on the inside or install a female adapter. This way when you need to remove the pump for maintenance you can just use a threaded plug to shut the water off, otherwise you will need to empty the sump everytime the pump needs maintenance.
DOH! you just solved a problem for me! it's been driving me mad and the solution was there all along!

Thanks

Andy


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Unread 04/09/2007, 11:05 AM   #5
jdieck
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Enjoy!


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 04/09/2007, 11:13 AM   #6
sjm817
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Another tip: The ball valve should be on the output of the pump, not intake if you want to use it to adjust flow.


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Unread 04/09/2007, 01:20 PM   #7
Reef Sponger
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I installed a ball valve with a union fitting on the input of the pump just to shutoff when I need to remove the pump for any reason. I do NOT use it to adjust flow or output.


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Unread 04/10/2007, 03:32 PM   #8
andyjd
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Bulkhead in the sump is 1" threaded.

Do I run 1" from the bulkhead until just before the pump and switch to 3/4" or just run 3/4 all the way from the bulkhead ?


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Unread 04/10/2007, 05:19 PM   #9
jdieck
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Run 1" all the way to the pump. Pressure drop at the pump inlet is even more critical for pump performance than pressure drop on the return line. With less restriction on the inlet (no elbows, short runs, larger diameter) you will be able to reduce the risk of cavitation, microbubbles wnd be able to run the sump at a lower level if necessary not including the pump giving you the rated performance.


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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind.

Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 04/10/2007, 07:10 PM   #10
andyjd
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1" it is will go shopping tomorrow

Thanks

Andy


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