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05/18/2007, 02:05 PM | #1 |
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nitrate control
How can one keep nitrates low on an aquarium? besides water changes, what are ways of controlling nitrates? Has anyone had success with anything?
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05/18/2007, 02:13 PM | #2 |
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nitrate sponge, reduced bioload AND water change
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05/18/2007, 02:16 PM | #3 |
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Refugium with macro algae and some people are doing the remote deep sandbed.
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05/18/2007, 02:17 PM | #4 |
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In addition to Alex's suggestions, Feed less or add a skimmer. Better flow might help also, keeps the poop and food from settling and forming nitrates.
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05/18/2007, 02:26 PM | #5 |
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denitrator e.g. is midwest aquatics
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05/18/2007, 02:26 PM | #6 |
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Don't forget the obvious. Live rock. Its pretty much the basis of filtration these days. Helps with the entire ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, nitrogen process. Usually recommended as 1-2 lbs / gal.
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05/18/2007, 02:31 PM | #7 |
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if you have bio-balls get rid of them
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05/18/2007, 03:14 PM | #8 |
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remote deep sand bed/deep sand bed (do a search in the advanced forum)
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- ThomasinKind Current Tank Info: none - researching for a nano to be set up in the near future |
05/18/2007, 03:19 PM | #9 |
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What type of filteration are you using?
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05/18/2007, 04:46 PM | #10 |
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Yes we need more info on your setup. Pics!! tank and filters....
Last edited by sabbath; 05/18/2007 at 05:34 PM. |
05/18/2007, 04:53 PM | #11 |
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Refugium with macro algea is the best way.
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05/18/2007, 05:46 PM | #12 |
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http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...t2003/chem.htm
That article covers nitrate in detail. I agree that growing and harvesting a macroalga is a good approach in many cases.
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05/23/2007, 08:55 AM | #13 | |
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05/23/2007, 09:05 AM | #14 |
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05/23/2007, 09:09 AM | #15 | |
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05/23/2007, 09:50 AM | #16 | |
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I still believe I made a mistake when I first ordered it - I thought my nitrates were around 15 but later I believe them to be undetectible which made sense as well because of my maintenance, etc - but I installed it anyway thinking what the heck - preventive maintenance... I was a tiny bit disappointed as to a certain buildup in the flow inside the chamber making me have to open it up every three months to clear and adjusting the low flow required a little too much attention for me when I thought it was suppose to be set and forget. these issues are commonplace using these I later found out amongst all the brands I think (I have not kept up lately) - having said all that, If my nitrates were above 10 consistently, and I could not otherwise get them down, I would put it back into service without hesitation - and btw - its for sale with a fresh batch of the right kind of sulfur which I understand is 90% of the clotting problem. They had given me a different sulfur at first which was the wrong size or something.
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05/23/2007, 11:39 AM | #17 |
COMAS Rocks!
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Think everyone here already covered your options, either go with a natural apporach, such as a deep sand bed setup, macro algae/refugium setup, water changes, skimming, enough live rock to support sufficient anerobic bacterial growth, ect. ect. ; or go with the artificial apporaches, such as nitrate removers, and other artificial products. In my own opinion, your better off establishing a natural nitrate reduction process in your setup.
fwiw, removing sponges, bioballs, and similar media is a natural process, this removes the excess aerobic bacteria and allows for the sandbed/rock/and other bacteria colonized objects to grow more bacteria and hopefully allow more anerobic bacteria to grow. FWIW, my original thougths were to keep nitrates as close to 0 as possible, as of lately and after much more research, a bit of nitrates in a system isn't neccessarily a bad thing, I wouldn't want my levels sitting at 100ppm or anything, but 5-10 isn't really that bad, dependant on the livestock in question (sps mainly)
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58g Softie & 75g Stoney Member, Central Oklahoma Marine Aquarium Society Current Tank Info: 58g Mixed Reef Project - Started June 2011 |
06/04/2007, 12:14 AM | #18 |
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Water changes. Feed less - When you do feed: Rinse things like thawed frozen mysis. Remove 'nitrate factories' such as bio-balls etc. Add nitrate consumers/exporters such as deep sand bed (some controversy), macro-algae, and clams.
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You wouldn't believe it if I told you. Go put on the helmet. Did I say that out loud? Current Tank Info: Color chunks in a big water box. |
06/04/2007, 06:05 AM | #19 | |
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06/04/2007, 02:47 PM | #20 |
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Clams with photosynthetic symbionts like Tridacnids will feed on nitrate in the water to some extent. I wouldn't recommend them for nitrate reduction, though, since they have their own significant care requirements.
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06/04/2007, 03:15 PM | #21 |
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clean micron sock about every other day if you use one.
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I have done a 5 gal water change (about 17%) every week since week one. Hopefully having this posted here will motivate me enough to keep doing so. Current Tank Info: 33L, Two 36" 24 watt Marineland LED's, Tunze 9002 Skimmer, 2 Koralia 1's, pico hob filter for carbon. |
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