best phosphate removal media

BigBadBlenny · 05/24/2007, 06:45 PM

i have never used this kind of stuff before. is any one better than the other. i see the seachem is cheaper than rowa.. any differences?

Rhodesholar · 05/24/2007, 07:23 PM

Personally I like Warner Marine Phosar and if you can afford it Phosar HC is great.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/aquat...PHOSAR-HC.html

DarG · 05/24/2007, 07:30 PM

One type is alumina based, thats the old type. The newer type is Iron based ... Granular ferric oxide. If it's white it's the old type if it's rusty brown colored, the new type. The GFO is supposed to NOT leach phosphates back into the water when it becomes saturated. I think that studies have shown that it actually does but it holds much more phosphate than the alumina based stuff.
It does cost more. The Two Part Solution buys it in bulk and sells it cheaper than most places. Also, the Fosters and Smith brand is cheaper than most and works as well. Does require more rinsing though.

hanas · 05/24/2007, 07:50 PM

I like using either Phosban or Rowaphos, they both seem to work extremely well from my experiences.

BigBadBlenny · 05/24/2007, 07:59 PM

excellent info thanz guys. i will try the rowa then

pjf · 05/24/2007, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rhodesholar
Personally I like Warner Marine Phosar and if you can afford it Phosar HC is great.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/aquat...PHOSAR-HC.html

Have we determined if pelletized PHOSaR is the same as Bayoxide 33-P?
Have we determined if PHOSaR-HC is the same as Bayoxide 33?

If so, then we are getting ripped off:

PHOSaR-HC (granular) $57/lb (400g)
PHOSaR (pellet) $20/lb (2000g)
Bayoxide 33 (granular) $15/lb (2000g)
Bayoxide 33-P (pellet) $16/lb (2000g)

While the cost of 2000 grams of pelletized PHOSaR are comparable to that of Bayoxide 33-P, the PHOSaR-HC costs 3 to 4 times as much as regular Bayoxide 33 (http://www.twopartsolution.com/index...index&cPath=41).

Zach117 · 05/25/2007, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by pjf
Have we determined if pelletized PHOSaR is the same as Bayoxide 33-P?
Have we determined if PHOSaR-HC is the same as Bayoxide 33?

If so, then we are getting ripped off:

PHOSaR-HC (granular) $57/lb (400g)
PHOSaR (pellet) $20/lb (2000g)
Bayoxide 33 (granular) $15/lb (2000g)
Bayoxide 33-P (pellet) $16/lb (2000g)

While the cost of 2000 grams of pelletized PHOSaR are comparable to that of Bayoxide 33-P, the PHOSaR-HC costs 3 to 4 times as much as regular Bayoxide 33 (http://www.twopartsolution.com/index...index&cPath=41).

I am curious to know this too.

dhnguyen · 05/25/2007, 09:18 AM

Try this.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...Np=1&N=0&Nty=1

bayreef · 05/25/2007, 02:01 PM

been using rowa love it. will try that product mentioned by PA.

Warner Marine · 05/25/2007, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zach117
I am curious to know this too.

PHOSaR HC is NOT Granular Bayoxide 33 as suggested.

It's impossible to mistake the two. PHOSaR HC is very dense, nearly 80% more dense than the Granular Bayoxide 33. PHOSaR HC has 50% more capacity, is nearly dust-free and is easy to rinse. In addition, it's very dark in color... looking nothing like Bayoxide 33 Granular.

It is a unique high capacity media offered by no other company.

Paulairduck · 05/25/2007, 04:11 PM

I have been using phosban for years and not had any issues. I have heard that it releases aluminum into the water, and now that my mother colonies are getting big, I think I am going to swith to phosar or rowa.

Reef Sponger · 05/28/2007, 01:23 PM

I've mixed 50/50 Phosban & Rowphos for over a year and don't see any ill effects. Had a touch of nuisance algae that disappeared as soon as I added the 2 Little Fishes Phosban Reactor.

I'm curious to tryout the Phosar.

powdertang05 · 05/28/2007, 03:02 PM

ive always used seachem alum remover it removes that fastest and is cheap and doesnt leach back into the water, and is reusable. i can remove up to 10 mg of po4 in less then 3 hours and then just put them on a baking sheet and then i can reuse it 5 more times and then i usually throw it away.

Lo0seR · 05/28/2007, 04:35 PM

Say what you want, but I feel that Salifert Phosphate eliminator is the best to get started with when dealing with phosphate. If you go with Rowa or the others and go full throttle you get some Alk problems at first, and if you have any SPS's you'll come across some tissue loss when this happens, just be carefull and have some ph buffer ready if PH gets to low when using the "GOOD" phos removers, because they work! Almost to fast, thats why I recommend Salifert Phosphate eliminator at first, then go for the Granular stuff and take it from there.

markandkristen · 05/28/2007, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lo0seR
Say what you want, but I feel that Salifert Phosphate eliminator is the best to get started with when dealing with phosphate. If you go with Rowa or the others and go full throttle you get some Alk problems at first, and if you have any SPS's you'll come across some tissue loss when this happens, just be carefull and have some ph buffer ready if PH gets to low when using the "GOOD" phos removers, because they work! Almost to fast, thats why I recommend Salifert Phosphate eliminator at first, then go for the Granular stuff and take it from there.

i definately agree as far sps. go slow start with a 1/4 dose than work your way up.

klam114 · 05/28/2007, 06:56 PM

How often is everyone changing their media? I change mine every 90 days whether it needs it or not, but I don't test for PO4, so I wouldn't know where they are at when I do a media change.

mavgi · 05/28/2007, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by klam114
How often is everyone changing their media? I change mine every 90 days whether it needs it or not, but I don't test for PO4, so I wouldn't know where they are at when I do a media change.

i change my every 3 week but you can test your PO4 from the reactor flow and then you can know if need to change it or not .

klam114 · 05/28/2007, 07:10 PM

Every 3 weeks, so soon? Actually, I had a typo, I change it every 60 days, so approximately 9 weeks. So, am I too long? Good thing the media doesn't leech back into the water like carbon does.

DarG · 05/28/2007, 07:21 PM

I change mine every 3 - 4 weeks but I only use 50-60 grams at a time in a 90.

da1jewfish · 05/28/2007, 07:24 PM

it doesn't seem like anyone uses kent phosphate sponge huh?
I just started using it seems good so far.

Ralph ATL · 05/28/2007, 07:35 PM

I have a very heavy load on my 55 and I have found that using a 75%Phosar & 25%ROWA work perfectly for me. I change it every 2.5 weeks. You can always check the phosphate level from the spout of the reactor with a Merk or Colormeter. If it detects any phates, it's time to change!

Reef Sponger · 05/28/2007, 07:57 PM

That's interesting, I guess I better change every month at the same time I change my carbon. This could get really costly, are you all sure? I had always thought that the media to remove phosphates last at least 3 times longer than carbon?

DarG · 05/28/2007, 08:06 PM

The GFO is supposed to last 2 or 3 months as I understand. But I just use less than recommended and replaced more often.

powdertang05 · 05/28/2007, 09:08 PM

it all depends on your po4 levels ive changed mine at 6 weeks and sometimes at 10 weeks just depends. but then again i just let it dry and then put it back in

sjm817 · 05/28/2007, 09:19 PM

PO4 is difficult to test for. Be sure you are removing something that needs to be removed. I dont use the stuff. I dont have any PO4 (that I have been able to measure). Randy was doing a test on GFO before he decided to take a break from RC. He said testing it was difficult and didn't see a clear difference from one to the next. I dont know if he will ever complete the testing and publish it.

05/24/2007, 06:45 PM	#1
BigBadBlenny Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Thunder Bay On Canada Posts: 598	best phosphate removal media i have never used this kind of stuff before. is any one better than the other. i see the seachem is cheaper than rowa.. any differences?

05/25/2007, 02:01 PM	#9
bayreef Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: dallas, tx. Posts: 141	phos been using rowa love it. will try that product mentioned by PA. __________________ striving to learn new skills and remain teachable Current Tank Info: 120 sps, 80 sump/fuge,

05/25/2007, 04:11 PM	#11
Paulairduck I LOVE FREE FRAGS!!! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Chino Hills Posts: 2,909	time to switch I have been using phosban for years and not had any issues. I have heard that it releases aluminum into the water, and now that my mother colonies are getting big, I think I am going to swith to phosar or rowa.

05/28/2007, 04:35 PM	#14
Lo0seR Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: La Mesa, Ca. Posts: 443	Say what you want, but I feel that Salifert Phosphate eliminator is the best to get started with when dealing with phosphate. If you go with Rowa or the others and go full throttle you get some Alk problems at first, and if you have any SPS's you'll come across some tissue loss when this happens, just be carefull and have some ph buffer ready if PH gets to low when using the "GOOD" phos removers, because they work! Almost to fast, thats why I recommend Salifert Phosphate eliminator at first, then go for the Granular stuff and take it from there. __________________ Here's to the losers, bless them all... Mr.F.S Current Tank Info: 240 LeeMar Euro FlatPolished

05/28/2007, 07:35 PM	#21
Ralph ATL Formerly mysterybox Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Flowery Branch, GA (North ATL) Posts: 1,842	I have a very heavy load on my 55 and I have found that using a 75%Phosar & 25%ROWA work perfectly for me. I change it every 2.5 weeks. You can always check the phosphate level from the spout of the reactor with a Merk or Colormeter. If it detects any phates, it's time to change! __________________ Ralph Scheriff

05/24/2007, 07:23 PM	#2
Rhodesholar Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Crivitz Wi Posts: 754	Personally I like Warner Marine Phosar and if you can afford it Phosar HC is great. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/aquat...PHOSAR-HC.html

05/24/2007, 07:30 PM	#3
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	One type is alumina based, thats the old type. The newer type is Iron based ... Granular ferric oxide. If it's white it's the old type if it's rusty brown colored, the new type. The GFO is supposed to NOT leach phosphates back into the water when it becomes saturated. I think that studies have shown that it actually does but it holds much more phosphate than the alumina based stuff. It does cost more. The Two Part Solution buys it in bulk and sells it cheaper than most places. Also, the Fosters and Smith brand is cheaper than most and works as well. Does require more rinsing though.

05/24/2007, 07:50 PM	#4
hanas Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 795	I like using either Phosban or Rowaphos, they both seem to work extremely well from my experiences.

05/24/2007, 07:59 PM	#5
BigBadBlenny Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Thunder Bay On Canada Posts: 598	excellent info thanz guys. i will try the rowa then

05/25/2007, 09:18 AM	#8
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	Try this. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...Np=1&N=0&Nty=1

05/28/2007, 01:23 PM	#12
Reef Sponger Moved On Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: TX/USA Posts: 696	I've mixed 50/50 Phosban & Rowphos for over a year and don't see any ill effects. Had a touch of nuisance algae that disappeared as soon as I added the 2 Little Fishes Phosban Reactor. I'm curious to tryout the Phosar.

05/28/2007, 03:02 PM	#13
powdertang05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hayward, CA Posts: 613	ive always used seachem alum remover it removes that fastest and is cheap and doesnt leach back into the water, and is reusable. i can remove up to 10 mg of po4 in less then 3 hours and then just put them on a baking sheet and then i can reuse it 5 more times and then i usually throw it away.

05/28/2007, 06:56 PM	#16
klam114 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: San Francisco Posts: 685	How often is everyone changing their media? I change mine every 90 days whether it needs it or not, but I don't test for PO4, so I wouldn't know where they are at when I do a media change.

05/28/2007, 07:10 PM	#18
klam114 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: San Francisco Posts: 685	Every 3 weeks, so soon? Actually, I had a typo, I change it every 60 days, so approximately 9 weeks. So, am I too long? Good thing the media doesn't leech back into the water like carbon does.

05/28/2007, 07:21 PM	#19
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	I change mine every 3 - 4 weeks but I only use 50-60 grams at a time in a 90.

05/28/2007, 07:24 PM	#20
da1jewfish Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: West Palm, FL Posts: 990	it doesn't seem like anyone uses kent phosphate sponge huh? I just started using it seems good so far.

05/28/2007, 07:57 PM	#22
Reef Sponger Moved On Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: TX/USA Posts: 696	That's interesting, I guess I better change every month at the same time I change my carbon. This could get really costly, are you all sure? I had always thought that the media to remove phosphates last at least 3 times longer than carbon?

05/28/2007, 08:06 PM	#23
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	The GFO is supposed to last 2 or 3 months as I understand. But I just use less than recommended and replaced more often.

05/28/2007, 09:08 PM	#24
powdertang05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hayward, CA Posts: 613	it all depends on your po4 levels ive changed mine at 6 weeks and sometimes at 10 weeks just depends. but then again i just let it dry and then put it back in

05/28/2007, 09:19 PM	#25
sjm817 On Yer left! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18,777	PO4 is difficult to test for. Be sure you are removing something that needs to be removed. I dont use the stuff. I dont have any PO4 (that I have been able to measure). Randy was doing a test on GFO before he decided to take a break from RC. He said testing it was difficult and didn't see a clear difference from one to the next. I dont know if he will ever complete the testing and publish it. __________________ - Scott