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08/19/2007, 05:03 PM | #1 |
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150 watt Halide lighting issue - lamp shutting down after 5 min
I have a 150 watt ballast that I put together from ReefGeek.
I wired it all up and it fired up the light, great! It ran good 5 hours day one It ran 1 hour day 2 then I left town... I have no idea the remainder of day 2 Day 3 I return and the lamp is out. The fixture is hot, so it feels like it just happened, say around an hour ago. The magnet ballast was making a louder humm... I shut it off... in 20 min I fired it back up and the lamp lights, hum starts loud then as the lamp ignites is quiets down. It runs about (full color of lamp, phoenix 14k) 5 - 10 minutes and then the lamp goes out and the hum gets louder. I have to shut everything down, and then repeat. Same results. Any thoughts?
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08/19/2007, 05:06 PM | #2 |
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Capacator??? I had the same issue one time and I think if I remember correctly that was the prob....
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08/19/2007, 05:12 PM | #3 |
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A hum from a magnetic ballast or an electric motor is usually the capacitor.
pmike gets the prize for being first.
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Click on my red house to see my 390 and 300 build thread. Those are my last 2 tanks in Tampa. Now in Pasadena waiting to buy a house to set up my next tank....anemones and clowns...probably a 3x3 150 gallon. |
08/19/2007, 05:14 PM | #4 |
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LOL /\/\ but you confirmed it
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08/19/2007, 05:34 PM | #5 |
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SWEET... Calling reef geek in the morning!
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08/19/2007, 06:40 PM | #6 |
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Does the ballast hum or is it more like a buzzing sound.
The buzz sound is generally from the starting circuit. The ignitor has a small capacitor inside and uses the secondary ballast coil as a step up transformer. This sound is totally normal. What model ballast do you have? In some models the capacitor is only used for power factor correction and will not affect lamp performance. If everything is wired correctly it is most likely the bulb or the sockets. Make sure the lamp is making good contact with the sockets. Sometimes the metal contacts in the sockets can expand from heat and result in a poor connection. Check the lamp ends and sockets for signs of deterioration and discoloring. If everything looks good then it could be you have a faulty lamp. |
08/20/2007, 08:52 PM | #7 |
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bryan if you need it I have an extra 250 20k bulb and electronic ballast you can borrow until the replacement comes. Just PM me.
=Chris |
08/21/2007, 06:00 AM | #8 |
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It appears to be wired correctly.
It is an advanced Ballast. I need to get the actual part number once I get home. I am guessing it is this one: http://www.advancetransformer.com/eC...3779209428.pdf I am confused by the diagram. The Ballast has 7 wires coming off it, the Cap 2 the ignitor 3, then I have the power lines in and the lamp lights out... The diagram just leaves me wondering where all the wires are? I have wires labeled 120, 227, x 1 x2 x3 cap com lamp and so forth... I will test the capacitor when I get home with an ohm meter and see what I get from that reading.... Yikes.
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08/21/2007, 11:58 AM | #9 |
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can anyone help me with that wiring diagram?
I am confused by the 227 and the 120 wires, I have those both connected to the wall.... I think... HELP!
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08/21/2007, 12:11 PM | #10 |
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I need to know for sure which ballast model you have. The ballast spec you posted would have 9 wires coming out the ballast.
You probably have this one: http://www.ballast.com/eCatalog/out/4177158036.pdf This one has 7 wires. I have a simplified/detailed wiring diagram for both ballasts at my office. I can post them once I get back in. |
08/21/2007, 12:25 PM | #11 |
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hummm... I will look when I get home.
I am trying to get the part number from the guys I bought it from.
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08/21/2007, 01:00 PM | #12 |
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On my Advance ballasts(running 400w MH's)you only hook up the 120, Com, and Cap wires. The others wires are for use with different voltages and are marked with such.
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08/21/2007, 01:01 PM | #13 |
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You can only hook up one of the voltage taps. In your case you only use the 120V wire and cap off the 277V wire.
If you have the 7 wire ballast (HX-HPF) then the capacitor will not affect lamp operating. It is only used for power factor correction. If you have the HX-HPF ballast here is a wiring diagram: |
08/21/2007, 02:02 PM | #14 |
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It appears to be this one:
http://www.advancetransformer.com/eC...4338880241.pdf I am worried about the Ballast to lamp distance, I know I am more than 2 feet. I will take some detail pics of the wiring and see what we can figure out when I get home :-)
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08/21/2007, 02:50 PM | #15 |
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The wire distance should not be a problem as long as the wire distance is within 15 feet but try to keep the wire distance short as possible. An ANSI M81 ballast is designed to have an ignition voltage approximately 5000-6000 volts. Most of the double-ended bulbs sold for the aquarium industry can be ignited with a few thousand volts. Longer the ballast to lamp wire distance lower the starting voltage will be.
The first wiring diagram (HX_NPF.PDF) I posted is for the HX ballast: Model 71A5480 Here is the wiring diagram for the CWA ballast: Model 71A5486 |
08/21/2007, 03:06 PM | #16 |
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PaulErik, you are a stud!
thanks. I will work on that tonight!
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08/21/2007, 03:27 PM | #17 |
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Well I made the chnages and it fired right up!
Off to dinner, I hope it is lit when I return! Thanks again!
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08/21/2007, 05:15 PM | #18 |
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Nice it is still fired up!
Thanks for the diagram!!!!!!
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