Experience with Current USA Outer Orbit MH/T5 Fixtures?

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 11:56 AM

Anyone have experience with Current USA Outer Orbit MH/T5 Fixtures?

I'd like to get a 36" 2x250watt HQI + 4x39watt T5 for my 48"x20"x20" tank.

This one comes with ballast and lamps, which is awesome!

Let me know what your reviews are on this fixture!

thanks!

davocean · 08/28/2007, 12:18 PM

I have the outer orbit and love it.
Only thing is I believe that 250w has an external magnetic ballast.
I have the 150w version(internal electronic) on my 180 (24"d) and it's plenty of light for my mixed reef.
I'm sure the 150w is plenty for your 20"d tank, unless you are just going chock full sps.
My tank has sps up high, but even my clam at bottom is very healthy/happy.

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 12:46 PM

Yes the 250 versions have the external ballasts. I guess it makes the fixture lighter and doesn't add excessive heat to the fixture.

I'm not sure if I should go with the 150 or not. All my corals will be SPS except for some zoanthids and maybe a euphilia. So maybe I should go with the 250. I may want to raise the light higher off the tank at times too to keep it cooler. (I'm running a chiller, but would rather it not turn on too much =)

I want to get two ballasts though, so that I can control the two halides independantly

davocean · 08/28/2007, 01:12 PM

Yeah, when I did my swap(90-180) I originally wanted the 250's going w/ what I read here, but the owner of Current kinda talked me out of it.
I told him I was concerned w/ heat and noise, and he said you will get more of both w/ the 250.
It was his opinion that many kinda "overcook" their tank w/ light.
My tank is almost 5 mo after swap.
So far, everything seems real healthy and not light deprived in any way.
In a 20"d, I'd go w/ the 150w, unless you have so many light needy sps crammed so much that it's an issue getting light through the shadowed areas, JMO

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 01:21 PM

some people definitely tell me 2x150 is enough, but others just blindly say "GO WITH 250!"

I don't mind the ballast being loud, I'd probably mount it in the basement. but cost of electricity and heat i do mind =/

Do you have a FTS picture with your lights by any chance?

thanks a ton for the help!

davocean · 08/28/2007, 01:22 PM

My 180

davocean · 08/28/2007, 01:25 PM

By the way, this is w/ the 14K bulbs, which I like better than the 10K they come with.

davocean · 08/28/2007, 01:32 PM

This is w/ 10K, a little brighter, but a bit washed out and yellow to me.
My nems and corals really took on healthy color about a month after changing bulbs(not just diff color from diff bulbs)
Softer on eyes as well.
This pic has shadows on ends as it was my 60", not the 72" I have now.

DarG · 08/28/2007, 01:40 PM

I have one question. Why the 36" fixture for the 48" long tank?

davocean · 08/28/2007, 01:46 PM

Yeah, I didn't catch that myself.
Getting a deal on used?
DarG's a sharp lighting dude, what do you think, 150w or 250w on a 20"d?

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 02:00 PM

I figure the 36" has enough spread for a 48" tank. 48" long fixture would be good for a tank that's 52" long right?

My single 250watt hqi over my 36" long breeder tank is quite enough for the entirety of the 36". I would imagine my living room being really lit up by the 48" long fixture.

This is assuming the halides are further apart?

davocean · 08/28/2007, 02:08 PM

I would do the 48" as long as your hood will accomidate it.
I have to check specs, but I believe the 48" will have more T5

GSMguy · 08/28/2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kinetic
I figure the 36" has enough spread for a 48" tank. 48" long fixture would be good for a tank that's 52" long right?

My single 250watt hqi over my 36" long breeder tank is quite enough for the entirety of the 36". I would imagine my living room being really lit up by the 48" long fixture.

This is assuming the halides are further apart?

i think it will look kinda weird the bubls are not at the end of the fixture so they will be really close together

its designed to fit a 36 inch tank

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GSMguy
i think it will look kinda weird the bubls are not at the end of the fixture so they will be really close together

its designed to fit a 36 inch tank

The bulbs you're talking about are the halide lamps being closer?

I think that would be better for a 48" tank, since if they were really far out, the spread is going to be totally shining out of the tank's area, so I may lose a lot of light.

But I guess if it's REALLY close, then it would be odd. Do you have a source for where they mention it's designed for the 36" tank?

I guess it makes sense, but I'm not too sure =/

Quote:

Originally posted by davocean
I would do the 48" as long as your hood will accomidate it.
I have to check specs, but I believe the 48" will have more T5

It has 54 watt T5's since they're longer.

I doubt I need that much wattage going on =/ Which is why I'm leaning towards the 36". I don't want as much light spilling out the sides.

GSMguy · 08/28/2007, 02:30 PM

the bulbs are centered and spaced evenly apart on a 36 inch fixture there only about 10 inches apart anyway i think you willhave dark spots

they are definetly for 36 inch tank the legs they come with fit a 36 perfectly same with the 48 inch fixture.

the 36 inch fixture on a 36 inch tank would have all the light at the ends of the tank otherwise.
also the reflectors are not huge there is not a lumenarc iike spread from them. so i dont think you need to worry about light spilling out the sides.

davocean · 08/28/2007, 02:33 PM

No light spill.
I think the T5's on mine are what help me get by w/ 150W, so the more the better IMO.
The pic where I showed 10K shows shadowed area on ends, don't like that and that's what you will get going short.
My opinion, go 150w, but 48" and you'll be cool.

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GSMguy
the bulbs are centered and spaced evenly apart on a 36 inch fixture there only about 10 inches apart anyway i think you willhave dark spots

they are definetly for 36 inch tank the legs they come with fit a 36 perfectly same with the 48 inch fixture.

the 36 inch fixture on a 36 inch tank would have all the light at the ends of the tank otherwise.
also the reflectors are not huge there is not a lumenarc iike spread from them. so i dont think you need to worry about light spilling out the sides.

thanks for your help!

I think I will consider the 48" 2x150watt in that case. saves watts, saves money =)

davocean · 08/28/2007, 02:39 PM

I better call Current and ask where's my sales check!LOL
Good luck w/ your tank!

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 02:42 PM

thanks for the help! I'll research a bit more on whether to go with 250 or 150, but it looks like the two 150's may be enough.

DarG · 08/28/2007, 02:43 PM

The 48" does not even center the halides over the two halves of the tank. They are actually closer to the center than they are the ends. THe 48" is definitely the better choice for a 4 foot tank.

If you do consider the dual 250 watt version, the difference in wattage is only a total of 60 watts more for the 48" version compared to the 36" version so heat differnce isnt going to be signifigant and neither is power consumption between the two lengths.

Personally, with only a 20" deep tank I think you will be fine with the dual 150 watt and the 4 T5's.

Wryknow · 08/28/2007, 02:52 PM

I agree with the majority opinon on this as well. The 2 x 150W + T5 fixture will be ample for SPS in a 20" deep tank, and you should certainly go with the 48" fixture. No sense in frying your tank and running up your light bill if you don't have too.........

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 03:05 PM

Thanks a ton you guys. I think I will definitely go with 150's at the 48" length.

eyebedam · 08/28/2007, 04:45 PM

I see you have a canopy over your tank. According to current they dont recommend using them with a canopy. I have a 180 myself & these are the lights im really leaning towards. Have you had any overheating problems? Im looking at the 72 in with the 250s myself. You have a really nice tank btw.

davocean · 08/28/2007, 08:28 PM

My canopy is open top for this reason.
This pic is w/ my 60" now I have a 72"

Kinetic · 08/28/2007, 09:00 PM

that's really cool.

I'm going to have mine hanging from the ceiling over a rimless tank, hopefully it won't get too hot.

08/28/2007, 11:56 AM	#1
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	Experience with Current USA Outer Orbit MH/T5 Fixtures? Anyone have experience with Current USA Outer Orbit MH/T5 Fixtures? I'd like to get a 36" 2x250watt HQI + 4x39watt T5 for my 48"x20"x20" tank. This one comes with ballast and lamps, which is awesome! Let me know what your reviews are on this fixture! thanks!

08/28/2007, 12:18 PM	#2
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I have the outer orbit and love it. Only thing is I believe that 250w has an external magnetic ballast. I have the 150w version(internal electronic) on my 180 (24"d) and it's plenty of light for my mixed reef. I'm sure the 150w is plenty for your 20"d tank, unless you are just going chock full sps. My tank has sps up high, but even my clam at bottom is very healthy/happy. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 01:12 PM	#4
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	Yeah, when I did my swap(90-180) I originally wanted the 250's going w/ what I read here, but the owner of Current kinda talked me out of it. I told him I was concerned w/ heat and noise, and he said you will get more of both w/ the 250. It was his opinion that many kinda "overcook" their tank w/ light. My tank is almost 5 mo after swap. So far, everything seems real healthy and not light deprived in any way. In a 20"d, I'd go w/ the 150w, unless you have so many light needy sps crammed so much that it's an issue getting light through the shadowed areas, JMO __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 01:22 PM	#6
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	My 180 __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 01:25 PM	#7
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	By the way, this is w/ the 14K bulbs, which I like better than the 10K they come with. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 12:46 PM	#3
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	Yes the 250 versions have the external ballasts. I guess it makes the fixture lighter and doesn't add excessive heat to the fixture. I'm not sure if I should go with the 150 or not. All my corals will be SPS except for some zoanthids and maybe a euphilia. So maybe I should go with the 250. I may want to raise the light higher off the tank at times too to keep it cooler. (I'm running a chiller, but would rather it not turn on too much =) I want to get two ballasts though, so that I can control the two halides independantly

08/28/2007, 01:21 PM	#5
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	some people definitely tell me 2x150 is enough, but others just blindly say "GO WITH 250!" I don't mind the ballast being loud, I'd probably mount it in the basement. but cost of electricity and heat i do mind =/ Do you have a FTS picture with your lights by any chance? thanks a ton for the help!

08/28/2007, 01:32 PM	#8
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	This is w/ 10K, a little brighter, but a bit washed out and yellow to me. My nems and corals really took on healthy color about a month after changing bulbs(not just diff color from diff bulbs) Softer on eyes as well. This pic has shadows on ends as it was my 60", not the 72" I have now. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 01:40 PM	#9
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	I have one question. Why the 36" fixture for the 48" long tank?

08/28/2007, 01:46 PM	#10
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	Yeah, I didn't catch that myself. Getting a deal on used? DarG's a sharp lighting dude, what do you think, 150w or 250w on a 20"d? __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 02:00 PM	#11
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	I figure the 36" has enough spread for a 48" tank. 48" long fixture would be good for a tank that's 52" long right? My single 250watt hqi over my 36" long breeder tank is quite enough for the entirety of the 36". I would imagine my living room being really lit up by the 48" long fixture. This is assuming the halides are further apart?

08/28/2007, 02:08 PM	#12
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I would do the 48" as long as your hood will accomidate it. I have to check specs, but I believe the 48" will have more T5 __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 02:30 PM	#15
GSMguy Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Northern New Mexico Posts: 17,420	the bulbs are centered and spaced evenly apart on a 36 inch fixture there only about 10 inches apart anyway i think you willhave dark spots they are definetly for 36 inch tank the legs they come with fit a 36 perfectly same with the 48 inch fixture. the 36 inch fixture on a 36 inch tank would have all the light at the ends of the tank otherwise. also the reflectors are not huge there is not a lumenarc iike spread from them. so i dont think you need to worry about light spilling out the sides. __________________ Nick. Conehead. Shallow Reef club. Current Tank Info: 48"x27"x14" Envision Acrylic rimless, 6x39w ATi Sunpower, Custom ATB Deluxe Skimmer, 4x tunze nano stream,ATB flowstar 1500, ACJR, Tunze osmolator.

08/28/2007, 02:33 PM	#16
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	No light spill. I think the T5's on mine are what help me get by w/ 150W, so the more the better IMO. The pic where I showed 10K shows shadowed area on ends, don't like that and that's what you will get going short. My opinion, go 150w, but 48" and you'll be cool. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 02:39 PM	#18
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I better call Current and ask where's my sales check!LOL Good luck w/ your tank! __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 02:42 PM	#19
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	thanks for the help! I'll research a bit more on whether to go with 250 or 150, but it looks like the two 150's may be enough.

08/28/2007, 02:43 PM	#20
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	The 48" does not even center the halides over the two halves of the tank. They are actually closer to the center than they are the ends. THe 48" is definitely the better choice for a 4 foot tank. If you do consider the dual 250 watt version, the difference in wattage is only a total of 60 watts more for the 48" version compared to the 36" version so heat differnce isnt going to be signifigant and neither is power consumption between the two lengths. Personally, with only a 20" deep tank I think you will be fine with the dual 150 watt and the 4 T5's.

08/28/2007, 02:52 PM	#21
Wryknow Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,203	I agree with the majority opinon on this as well. The 2 x 150W + T5 fixture will be ample for SPS in a 20" deep tank, and you should certainly go with the 48" fixture. No sense in frying your tank and running up your light bill if you don't have too......... __________________ You cannot use reason to change the opinion of a person that did not use reason to form their opinion in the first place. Current Tank Info: 65 G RR, w/ 50 G sump/refugium, DIY LED lighting, AquaMaxx CO-1 skimmer, Tunze 1073.050 return

08/28/2007, 03:05 PM	#22
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	Thanks a ton you guys. I think I will definitely go with 150's at the 48" length.

08/28/2007, 04:45 PM	#23
eyebedam Is Sailing the Seas Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Mt. Juliet TN Posts: 2,039	I see you have a canopy over your tank. According to current they dont recommend using them with a canopy. I have a 180 myself & these are the lights im really leaning towards. Have you had any overheating problems? Im looking at the 72 in with the 250s myself. You have a really nice tank btw. __________________ "There are many things you can refuse to do with a man. You can refuse to work for him, dine with him, or talk to him. But if he wants to fight, you have to oblige him." --Pat Buchanon “I’ve always believed that America’s government was a unique political system — one designed by geniuses so that it could be run by idiots. I was wrong. No system can be smart enough to survive this level of incompetence and recklessness by the people charged to run it." Thomas Friedman, NY Times Current Tank Info: 180 Gal plumbed in the basement with 200 gal sump. Decided to go aggressive from this point on.

08/28/2007, 08:28 PM	#24
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	My canopy is open top for this reason. This pic is w/ my 60" now I have a 72" __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/28/2007, 09:00 PM	#25
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	that's really cool. I'm going to have mine hanging from the ceiling over a rimless tank, hopefully it won't get too hot.