Re-Setup 135G

jsr · 09/13/2007, 08:13 AM

So here is my plan. Since I was so anxious to get the tank running, I am now going to take it down for a few days and correct all my mistakes. Note to anyone new to the hobbyâ€¦.do your homework and plan before everything is up and running!
I need to drain the tank, move the rock/sand/critters to a storage tank, paint the back of the tank, and complete a few electrical challenges. My tank is sitting 2 Â½ inches from the wall so I will need to remove it from the stand to complete the painting. So here are my questionsâ€¦

Do I just use standard black/blue spray paint or do I need a special type? Any suggestions would be helpful.

How much water do I need to save? My plan is to put the sand/rock in a 44G BRUTE and have another 44G to hold some water. Will my tank go through another cycle if I only save Â½ the water?

How will my single blenny and cleanup crew fair in a small container for a few days with a small pump and a heater? My other thought was to use a small 10G aquarium as a holding tank instead of a Rubbermaid container. I assume the 10G will be sufficient for 10 snails, 20+ crabs, and the blenny? Initially, I was going to use my 29G sump but I want to reconfigure the baffles to make room for an Octopus NW220 skimmer.

I want to complete all this on a weekend but want to ensure that everything I plan on doing is not going to result in my tank not coming back. Any feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

an411 · 09/13/2007, 08:52 AM

Is the only reason that you are doing this is to paint the back also what type of electrical work needs to be corrected. I was thinking that you can use some sort of solid color contact paper. instead of emptying everything to paint the back. If you do go that route though the spray paint is fine. HTH

mluz · 09/13/2007, 09:18 AM

I orginally painted the back of my tank with latex paint (rolled) but then it started to peel off. I removed all the paint and did a lot of research on RC as to other methods.

I saw some other reefers tanks that use black or blue acrylic on the outside of the tank or on the inside if you are emptying out the tank.

I have some black 1/8 acrylic on order and i am going to silicone it inside the tank since its empty right now. i think either way is more durable than paint and if done inside you don't have to worry about water running in between the glass and the acrylic.

jsr · 09/13/2007, 09:50 AM

Painting the back is a big part of this. I also plan to install PVC plumbing and returns (which can be done while full) and redesign my sump. The electrical issues I have right now is that I need more plugs, so I was going to run two dedicated GFI circuits from my breaker box to the aquarium room. This is only a 15 foot run but I need to get into the walls.

jsr · 09/13/2007, 05:29 PM

So I have decided not to take anything down. Too much risk. Has anyone tried to install the "sticky" backing to a tank that is very close to the wall? I am really worried about air bubbles at the tank is 6 feet long and its going to be near impossible to really get this attached. Has anyone tried this or have a trick to get this to work?

GTriever · 09/14/2007, 03:44 AM

Construction paper in the color you want and tape. Masking tape if you want to remove it easily, clear shipping tape for a more "permanent" hold. No bubbles, no muss, no fuss...

tcwayne · 09/14/2007, 04:35 AM

JSR, when I decided to do something with the back of my tank it was already up and running for awhile as well. So I racked my brain and figured that painting was not an option. So I took home some black vinyl that we use to re-do the fronts of old vending machines. First I tried to peel a piece and stick it on the back and no matter what I did you could still see air bubbles so I peeled it off and just took two pieces , cut to size and taped them to the back. Unless you look at the outside back of the tank you cannot tell its on there at all.

jsr · 09/14/2007, 08:12 AM

Thanks everyone. I am going to get some black backing and try to tape it on there. If that does not work, I will find some black plexi or vinyl. That's for all the suggestions.

mluz · 09/14/2007, 08:24 AM

jsr - if you decide to go with plexi, i bought mine at usplastic, good price including shipping as compared to what i would have paid locally.

09/13/2007, 08:13 AM	#1
jsr Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 409	Re-Setup 135G So here is my plan. Since I was so anxious to get the tank running, I am now going to take it down for a few days and correct all my mistakes. Note to anyone new to the hobbyâ€¦.do your homework and plan before everything is up and running! I need to drain the tank, move the rock/sand/critters to a storage tank, paint the back of the tank, and complete a few electrical challenges. My tank is sitting 2 Â½ inches from the wall so I will need to remove it from the stand to complete the painting. So here are my questionsâ€¦ Do I just use standard black/blue spray paint or do I need a special type? Any suggestions would be helpful. How much water do I need to save? My plan is to put the sand/rock in a 44G BRUTE and have another 44G to hold some water. Will my tank go through another cycle if I only save Â½ the water? How will my single blenny and cleanup crew fair in a small container for a few days with a small pump and a heater? My other thought was to use a small 10G aquarium as a holding tank instead of a Rubbermaid container. I assume the 10G will be sufficient for 10 snails, 20+ crabs, and the blenny? Initially, I was going to use my 29G sump but I want to reconfigure the baffles to make room for an Octopus NW220 skimmer. I want to complete all this on a weekend but want to ensure that everything I plan on doing is not going to result in my tank not coming back. Any feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated. __________________ Just my grain of salt... Current Tank Info: 135G Oceanic Mixed, 4 x 140W VHO, Octopus NW200, 3 x Koralia 4's, 30G Sump, 140# Live Rock, 120# Live Sand, ATO

09/13/2007, 09:50 AM	#4
jsr Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 409	Painting the back is a big part of this. I also plan to install PVC plumbing and returns (which can be done while full) and redesign my sump. The electrical issues I have right now is that I need more plugs, so I was going to run two dedicated GFI circuits from my breaker box to the aquarium room. This is only a 15 foot run but I need to get into the walls. __________________ Just my grain of salt... Current Tank Info: 135G Oceanic Mixed, 4 x 140W VHO, Octopus NW200, 3 x Koralia 4's, 30G Sump, 140# Live Rock, 120# Live Sand, ATO

09/13/2007, 05:29 PM	#5
jsr Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 409	So I have decided not to take anything down. Too much risk. Has anyone tried to install the "sticky" backing to a tank that is very close to the wall? I am really worried about air bubbles at the tank is 6 feet long and its going to be near impossible to really get this attached. Has anyone tried this or have a trick to get this to work? __________________ Just my grain of salt... Current Tank Info: 135G Oceanic Mixed, 4 x 140W VHO, Octopus NW200, 3 x Koralia 4's, 30G Sump, 140# Live Rock, 120# Live Sand, ATO

09/14/2007, 04:35 AM	#7
tcwayne OLDGUY-OG Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: St. Petersburg, Florida Posts: 2,645	JSR, when I decided to do something with the back of my tank it was already up and running for awhile as well. So I racked my brain and figured that painting was not an option. So I took home some black vinyl that we use to re-do the fronts of old vending machines. First I tried to peel a piece and stick it on the back and no matter what I did you could still see air bubbles so I peeled it off and just took two pieces , cut to size and taped them to the back. Unless you look at the outside back of the tank you cannot tell its on there at all. __________________ Chuck

09/14/2007, 08:12 AM	#8
jsr Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 409	Thanks everyone. I am going to get some black backing and try to tape it on there. If that does not work, I will find some black plexi or vinyl. That's for all the suggestions. __________________ Just my grain of salt... Current Tank Info: 135G Oceanic Mixed, 4 x 140W VHO, Octopus NW200, 3 x Koralia 4's, 30G Sump, 140# Live Rock, 120# Live Sand, ATO

09/13/2007, 08:52 AM	#2
an411 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Derby CT Posts: 2,861	Is the only reason that you are doing this is to paint the back also what type of electrical work needs to be corrected. I was thinking that you can use some sort of solid color contact paper. instead of emptying everything to paint the back. If you do go that route though the spray paint is fine. HTH

09/13/2007, 09:18 AM	#3
mluz Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Mineola, NY Posts: 104	I orginally painted the back of my tank with latex paint (rolled) but then it started to peel off. I removed all the paint and did a lot of research on RC as to other methods. I saw some other reefers tanks that use black or blue acrylic on the outside of the tank or on the inside if you are emptying out the tank. I have some black 1/8 acrylic on order and i am going to silicone it inside the tank since its empty right now. i think either way is more durable than paint and if done inside you don't have to worry about water running in between the glass and the acrylic.

09/14/2007, 03:44 AM	#6
GTriever Registered Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Paducah, KY Posts: 193	Construction paper in the color you want and tape. Masking tape if you want to remove it easily, clear shipping tape for a more "permanent" hold. No bubbles, no muss, no fuss...

09/14/2007, 08:24 AM	#9
mluz Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Mineola, NY Posts: 104	jsr - if you decide to go with plexi, i bought mine at usplastic, good price including shipping as compared to what i would have paid locally.