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#1 |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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I've had the RS-100 skimmer now for about a month. For the life of me, I cannot get this damned thing dialed in. If it makes skimmate, it's too low to go into the collection cup. If I raise the water level in the next by twisting the flow control, I can raise it to about level with the bottom of the cup, but like shrodinger's cat, you look away and it's gonna flood the cup. (actually, schrodinger's cat didn't "flood anything...lol)
Here's the setup: ![]()
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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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#2 |
Moved On
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Whittier, CA
Posts: 3,182
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Make sure it's sitting in at least 9" of water......................I've found that if the water level drops too low in my sump, the skimmer won't perform the same.
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#3 |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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Hummm. I moved the water level in my sump up to 7.5". You have the RS-100 and run 9" when measured from the skimmer bottom in the sump?
__________________
CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,399
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Put a Sedra 5000 on it and it'll skim like a beast. I did this to my CS6-1 (same dimensions as your RS100) and the difference in performance was remarkable.
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Nothin' left to do but smile, smile, smile.... Current Tank Info: 75 reef (2x 250 ReefOptix IIIs, AB 10k bulbs w/ 330 watt VHO, EuroReef RC135 skimmer, multicontrolled Tunze 6095's X2); 40 sps prop tank (Outer Orbit Pro 150, Euroreef CS6-1+ skimmer); 20 softie prop tank |
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#5 |
Moved On
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Whittier, CA
Posts: 3,182
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Make sure the input elbow from the pump is at least 1" under water. It changes the head pressure on the pump & skims properly this way..............
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#6 |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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SteveOhh.
Right now it's running above 1" on the input elbow. I think I'm starting to see some stability. I'm taking my time with patience as they say.
__________________
CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: winter park, fl
Posts: 1,078
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took me about 6-8 weeks to get my er stabalized.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 320
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I have a new RS 100 as well and i am not gettng a good seal at the neck coupling. getting several drips but seems to be skimming ok. it has only been running for about an hour though
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 648
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I have an rs80. I have it under 9in of water and it skims better than what the recommended depth of 7-8 in. Less micro bubble because near the output
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 320
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I have a new RS 100 as well and i am not gettng a good seal at the neck coupling. getting several drips but seems to be skimming ok. it has only been running for about an hour though. Does this leakage from the coupling affect the skimmer production?
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 648
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dstall,
try putting some gasket lubricant. I had that problem and the lubricant that came with my unit fixed it |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 320
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Mine did not come with any lubricant, i will follow up with LFS. Does it take a while(break in) before skimming start starts or am i doing something wrong? ALso not sure at what level the water/bubbles should be in the skimmer?? Base of neck or higer in the chamber?
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 648
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I saw my cup collecting stuff within 2bours. I set mine up so the bubbles are near the bottom of the cup. Sometimes it passes this point by 1in then it receeds back. It gives me a dry skim. If you want wet I would close the gate till the bubbles are half way up the cup.
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 320
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thanks
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 178
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How is your bio-load, the skimmer looks rather clean for a month of operation. Do you tinker with it everyday? What I learned is not to tinker with it and just let it break in, it needs to develop the film on the acrylic in order for the bubbles to climb.
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Miami Beach
Posts: 3,094
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I've been having what I think is the same problem with my ER RS180. Had it a few months. Was getting this dark sludge on the side of the cup, but very little foam/substance in the cup. Have overdone it too and floaded the cup with what amounted to tank water. Over 9 inches of water in the sump. At first, didn't even realize dialing it in was necessary, thought it was only to adjust the consistency of the skimmate. Working slowly, have been able to get it to perform. Mine is doing alot better now, but still not getting the cup a day that I hear so many others talking about (about a cup every 3 days).
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#17 |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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Well, All I can say is that I put mine in at the end of October of this year and just now am I seeing some progress in making skimmate. I have to keep in mind that the bioload is extreamly low with being a new setup. I have found that (thanks to Steveohh) the skimmer works a lot better with NO overflows when I adjusted the sump water up to cover above the reaction chamber intake.
I'm starting to now see some brown skimmate, but not quite enough to make the cup. I will let be for now.
__________________
CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,399
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Seriously, the RS100 is underpowered. Mine never did much until I upped the pump. I know some folks don't like to fool with their stock equipment, and I agree that the skimmer should originally be sold with the appropriate pump. ER told me a Sedra 5000 was too much for this skimmer (they also wanted to sell me an entire new skimmer; go figure). I tried it on the recommendation of several on RC, and they were right. It skimms like crazy with the bigger pump on it.
__________________
Nothin' left to do but smile, smile, smile.... Current Tank Info: 75 reef (2x 250 ReefOptix IIIs, AB 10k bulbs w/ 330 watt VHO, EuroReef RC135 skimmer, multicontrolled Tunze 6095's X2); 40 sps prop tank (Outer Orbit Pro 150, Euroreef CS6-1+ skimmer); 20 softie prop tank |
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Miami Beach
Posts: 3,094
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What alternate pump would you recommend for the RS180?
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#20 |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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Things seem to be working since I upped the water level about the 6-8 inches that is stated in the owners manual
__________________
CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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#21 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,399
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Quote:
__________________
Nothin' left to do but smile, smile, smile.... Current Tank Info: 75 reef (2x 250 ReefOptix IIIs, AB 10k bulbs w/ 330 watt VHO, EuroReef RC135 skimmer, multicontrolled Tunze 6095's X2); 40 sps prop tank (Outer Orbit Pro 150, Euroreef CS6-1+ skimmer); 20 softie prop tank |
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#22 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Queens/NYC
Posts: 361
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you will never get it to skim trust me. euroreefs are either you get them to skim or not. you can never have them in between
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#23 | |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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Quote:
I don't know what to do? I guess see if I can return it??
__________________
CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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#24 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 320
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My RS100 which i got 2 two days ago is skimming great.. It did take a little adjusting but it producing great
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#25 | |
"Shellback"
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 541
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Quote:
__________________
CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris |
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