Settle Something For me(sump Question)

Vinnie71975 · 01/28/2008, 04:26 PM

If i set up my sump like the following Diagram, And add another Ball Valve to be able to control the flow into the sump, Would i want a Low Flow Sump(210 to 310 GPH ) OR would i want High Flow Sump(around 800 GPH)? I ask because I want whats best for my tank BUT i also want whats cost effective( Mag Drive 9.5 =100 VS Mag Drive 3 = 54.00).

Please everyone chime in on this! Even if your just a Newbie like me but have read up on sumps i want everyones ideas!

mbbuna · 01/28/2008, 04:35 PM

you want the ball valve on the output of the pump and you throttle back the flow from the pump going into the tank to what you like. you dont want the ball valve on an overflow because then something will flood

rustybucket145 · 01/28/2008, 04:36 PM

With a 55gal tank you can almost get by using only a Mag 7 or Mag 9.5 for all the flow. (ie, not have powerheads in the tank) If you go with the Mag 3 you're gonna have to add several powerheads to keep the flow in the main tank up to par.

I wouldn't add a ball valve to control flow to the sump, just the fuge

Vinnie71975 · 01/28/2008, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rustybucket145
With a 55gal tank you can almost get by using only a Mag 7 or Mag 9.5 for all the flow. (ie, not have powerheads in the tank) If you go with the Mag 3 you're gonna have to add several powerheads to keep the flow in the main tank up to par.

I wouldn't add a ball valve to control flow to the sump, just the fuge

Well the reason i was going to use a ball valve on the sump is the Overflow i have is for a 125g tank and i was trying to cut back the flow into the sump to save money on the Pump ( Mag 9.5 is 100 bucks!)

drparker · 01/28/2008, 04:50 PM

your design is a good one. It doesn't show it but there should be bubble trap baffles in the sump. The current ball valve will allow you to reduce the flow into your fuge, I have mine set to only allow about 25% of the water through the fuge. As mentioned put a ball valve on the return so you can adjust the total flow if slower if needed.

mbbuna · 01/28/2008, 04:56 PM

just because the overflow is rated for a 120 doesnt mean its going to drain that much. the overflow will only drain as much as is pumped into the tank unless you pump more then the overflow can handle

Vinnie71975 · 01/28/2008, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mbbuna
just because the overflow is rated for a 120 doesnt mean its going to drain that much. the overflow will only drain as much as is pumped into the tank unless you pump more then the overflow can handle

Would This Work:

This would use ONLY the return pump for Flow in the tank.

mbbuna · 01/28/2008, 05:35 PM

yes that would work as long as the pump doesn't overpower the overflow

Vinnie71975 · 01/28/2008, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by drparker
your design is a good one. It doesn't show it but there should be bubble trap baffles in the sump. The current ball valve will allow you to reduce the flow into your fuge, I have mine set to only allow about 25% of the water through the fuge. As mentioned put a ball valve on the return so you can adjust the total flow if slower if needed.

My Sump and Fuge Both are Rubber maid containers they dont have baffles as of yet, i may go get plexiglass and make baffles though.

cdbias2 · 01/28/2008, 06:48 PM

Gosh, you never said if that's the only flow entering your tank. If you had a couple Tunze in the display then you could go at minimum turnover in your sump which I call 10x per hr. This is 10x your sump volume not your tank volume.
If it is the only flow in your tank, a lot of people are doing 50x turnover in there tank for SPS. That would be 2500gph. I wouldn't do this.
In your main tank you want random chaos not directional 24/7.

SteveNMegz · 01/28/2008, 10:17 PM

we use a mag 5 with a 30G sump/fuge, 65G display, with 5 feet head theres nice water flow through the sump lots of time for the skimmer and chaeto to work

Vinnie71975 · 01/28/2008, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SteveNMegz
we use a mag 5 with a 30G sump/fuge, 65G display, with 5 feet head theres nice water flow through the sump lots of time for the skimmer and chaeto to work

Oh the flow through the fuge will be restricted and i plan on using a mag 18 to push about 800gph flow(SPS are a ways off for me) Once i do decide to make the jump into SPS ill buy a Hydor to point at the SPS section of the tank lol.

Vinnie71975 · 01/28/2008, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cdbias2
Gosh, you never said if that's the only flow entering your tank. If you had a couple Tunze in the display then you could go at minimum turnover in your sump which I call 10x per hr. This is 10x your sump volume not your tank volume.
If it is the only flow in your tank, a lot of people are doing 50x turnover in there tank for SPS. That would be 2500gph. I wouldn't do this.
In your main tank you want random chaos not directional 24/7.

The way the Spray bar is being drilled will cause random chaos trust me, i will be starting off at about 15x with just the mag 18 pushing around 800gph (corrected for head room and length pumped)

Playa-1 · 01/28/2008, 11:33 PM

Leave it like your diagram and add a ball valve to the return line.
I would shoot for low to medium flow thru the sump. This helps the skimmer to operate more effectively and also helps to prevent micro bubbles and drain noise. The ball valve on the return line allows you to increase or decrease flow thru the system if you need to. If you need additional flow get it thru powerheads and/or closed loop.

01/28/2008, 04:26 PM	#1
Vinnie71975 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bryan Ohio Posts: 777	Settle Something For me(sump Question) If i set up my sump like the following Diagram, And add another Ball Valve to be able to control the flow into the sump, Would i want a Low Flow Sump(210 to 310 GPH ) OR would i want High Flow Sump(around 800 GPH)? I ask because I want whats best for my tank BUT i also want whats cost effective( Mag Drive 9.5 =100 VS Mag Drive 3 = 54.00). Please everyone chime in on this! Even if your just a Newbie like me but have read up on sumps i want everyones ideas! __________________ God will have Mercy Your SW tank WONT- Me Freedom Must occasionally be renewed with the blood of patriots-General Patton Current Tank Info: 55g reef to be(buying stuff now), 20g high Goldfish, 20g High FW Semi Aggressive, 35g hex Community tank, 10g SW Fowlr

01/28/2008, 04:36 PM	#3
rustybucket145 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: valdosta, ga Posts: 3,707	With a 55gal tank you can almost get by using only a Mag 7 or Mag 9.5 for all the flow. (ie, not have powerheads in the tank) If you go with the Mag 3 you're gonna have to add several powerheads to keep the flow in the main tank up to par. I wouldn't add a ball valve to control flow to the sump, just the fuge __________________ 400gals of various tanks in the same system. Current Tank Info: 2 175w MH, 2 VH0 Actinics, Lots of Live Rock, tons of copepods, a Fat Mandarin Goby, Niger Trigger, Yellow Tang, Falco Hawkfish, Bi-Color Pseudo, numerous soft, SPS and LPS Corals

01/28/2008, 10:17 PM	#11
SteveNMegz Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Port Colborne Posts: 1,140	we use a mag 5 with a 30G sump/fuge, 65G display, with 5 feet head theres nice water flow through the sump lots of time for the skimmer and chaeto to work __________________ Steve and Megz Current Tank Info: 55G Shallow Reef (30x30x14) - Equip: Ecotech Radion XR30 G3 Pro, 2 Tunze 6055, Vertex Omega 130 Skimmer, Ecotech Vectra M1 return, Vertex Rx1.5 Zeovit Reactor

01/28/2008, 04:35 PM	#2
mbbuna Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 6,847	you want the ball valve on the output of the pump and you throttle back the flow from the pump going into the tank to what you like. you dont want the ball valve on an overflow because then something will flood

01/28/2008, 04:50 PM	#5
drparker Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Palatine, IL Posts: 2,652	your design is a good one. It doesn't show it but there should be bubble trap baffles in the sump. The current ball valve will allow you to reduce the flow into your fuge, I have mine set to only allow about 25% of the water through the fuge. As mentioned put a ball valve on the return so you can adjust the total flow if slower if needed.

01/28/2008, 04:56 PM	#6
mbbuna Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 6,847	just because the overflow is rated for a 120 doesnt mean its going to drain that much. the overflow will only drain as much as is pumped into the tank unless you pump more then the overflow can handle

01/28/2008, 05:35 PM	#8
mbbuna Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 6,847	yes that would work as long as the pump doesn't overpower the overflow

01/28/2008, 06:48 PM	#10
cdbias2 Appalachian Reef Society Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Alum Creek, WV (No more) Posts: 1,433	Gosh, you never said if that's the only flow entering your tank. If you had a couple Tunze in the display then you could go at minimum turnover in your sump which I call 10x per hr. This is 10x your sump volume not your tank volume. If it is the only flow in your tank, a lot of people are doing 50x turnover in there tank for SPS. That would be 2500gph. I wouldn't do this. In your main tank you want random chaos not directional 24/7.

01/28/2008, 11:33 PM	#14
Playa-1 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Laguna Niguel, CA Posts: 7,497	Leave it like your diagram and add a ball valve to the return line. I would shoot for low to medium flow thru the sump. This helps the skimmer to operate more effectively and also helps to prevent micro bubbles and drain noise. The ball valve on the return line allows you to increase or decrease flow thru the system if you need to. If you need additional flow get it thru powerheads and/or closed loop.