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05/02/2008, 11:15 PM | #1 |
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Suggestions for a 150W DE "Low Profile" Reflector?
Im working on a canopy for my new tank (60"x18"x27") and would like to upgrade the reflectors on my two 150W DE MH lamps.
I know that 150W Halides are not the best route to go for a 27" deep tank, but I would like to maximize their output to get the most out of them. 15ΒΆ/kWh is mainly what is keeping me from upgrading them to 250W'ers! Can anyone give me a starting point as to a good "low profile" reflector for a 150W DE Metal Halide lamp? The canopy will be a "full" style canopy, so Im specifically looking for something that will easily "retro" into it. Any favorites out there? Any that I should steer clear of? Thanks!
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"Never be afraid to do something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the titanic." -Anonymous Current Tank Info: tankless |
05/03/2008, 04:01 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Eastern Ontario (above Sudbury)
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Tagging along, What brand of light have you got? Or are they DIY?
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VE3SZB Failure is not an option - It is a requirement if you expect to learn anything. Click on my home page button for pictures of my aquarium. Current Tank Info: 75g Display, CPR SM Aquafuge, 8g sump, 20g tall fuge, Maxspect R420R LED, KoralLin 1502 CaRa, EV-180 Skimmer |
05/03/2008, 06:57 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Here is what I have now on my 30 gallon tank. They do a good job on the tanks 36"x12" footprint, but Im not too confident that this setup will work for a 60"x18" footprint! Any ideas from the Sat. morning crew?
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"Never be afraid to do something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the titanic." -Anonymous Current Tank Info: tankless |
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05/03/2008, 07:54 AM | #4 |
Go Spurs Go!!!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Meadowlakes Texas
Posts: 13,357
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I don't think you have room enough in your canopy for this, however I also run 150's and retro'd them into LumanArc Mini's. Considering the depth you have to punch through you may want to look into LumenBrights and mounting your 150's in them. Use a high par bulb such as the XDE 10K and you will be getting the most out of a 150.
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Jack No One has ever been seriously injured by using the search function. Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms should be a convenience store, not a government agency. Current Tank Info: Reefing the Pentagon. |
05/03/2008, 10:37 AM | #5 |
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Location: NJ
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I would use AB 10k's. If you use an electronic ballast the AB have a larger spike in the 420 actinic range, PAR is about equal.
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05/03/2008, 11:02 AM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
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Heres my question; Would changing my 150 MH's from the PHX 14K to the AB or XDE 10K, and runnig all actinics on the T5's, allow my color stay close to what it is now? You both make a strong case to use a high PAR bulb, I just cannot (will not) deal with the "yellow" look if some 10K bulbs (white is fine, but yellow is not good )
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"Never be afraid to do something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the titanic." -Anonymous Current Tank Info: tankless |
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05/03/2008, 05:46 PM | #7 |
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Location: NJ
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From what other members have posted the AB 10k run on a Sunpod fixture using Sunpak electronic ballst is a white looking bulb. This lamp coupled with 4x54 T5 Actinic should be a nice color combo for you but I still would see how the spectral analysis looks so you can see where it peaks using your specific ballast.
FWIW, I use MH only and going to be switching from my 150w Pheonix 14k lamps to the AB 10k. The AB 10k is rated 13k as an HQI. I figure with the nice ice white, shallow reef look and increased PAR, I can run a 6hr PP. My tank is only 55g and 20" deep. |
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