Algae outbreak in my 30 Gallon reef tank!!!

hapka16 · 06/27/2008, 04:03 PM

I'm having a problem controlling an algae or cyano outbreak in my tank and it's already killed my kenya tree and about to kill a finger leather due to smothering. Can anyone help???? My ammonia,nitrate/ite, and phosphates are 0, calcium at 520 (is this too high?), and my pH is 8.2. My temp is steady at about 80-81 degrees F. I run my AquaC remora w/ surface skimmer nonstop and have only biological media and a pack of purigen in my canister filter. Please help before i lose another coral!!! Also, what supplements should i be adding and what is the best way to nurse back an injured coral?

FranktheTankTx · 06/27/2008, 04:21 PM

Oh man...

Lots of unknowns here. What kind of water are you using?

Right off the start... I notice a couple of things...

Calcium is a little high. I would keep it around 425 - 475.
PH looks good!

I hate canister filters with reef tanks. Especially biological media! If you have LR, you don't need biological media. It's a nitrate trap. Even when your nitrates or phosphates test zero, they could still be present. I would remove the biological media... and give great consideration to removing the canister period.

LR & a good skimmer are all you need on a reef tank for filtration.

This is what I would do (not what everyone else would do):

Next, do 25% water change with fresh RO/DI saltwater once a week for 4 weeks.

Cut the lights off for 2 days completely. You can probably get away with 3 days... but 2 is all I feel comfortable with. 48 hours total. Then bring the lights back on at only 4 hours per day for 2 weeks. Then gradually work them back to your scheduled durations.

Meanwhile... work on getting a refugium set up w/ 4-5" of LS & chaeto. An HOB refugium would work (small CPR AquaFuge2). I own this unit.

In 4-6 weeks you should be better than ever if you follow these steps.

I'm certain others will suggest some stuff. I promise my suggestions will work... but others' will too probably.

FranktheTankTx · 06/27/2008, 04:24 PM

Oh one more thing... Flow and feedings.

Make sure you have a minimum of 30x flow in your tank. I would suggest shooting for 40x.

Also, what/ how are you feeding? I feed my reef tanks 3 or 4 times per week. Everything can feed off the reef itself inbetween.

Don't overfeed.

chris4869 · 06/27/2008, 07:50 PM

Are you using RO/DI water? If you are, you might need to check to see if it's working (TDS meter).

You can fix your problem fairly quickly by dosing a little of Vodka. Check the forum for the recommended amount. I had an outbreak half a year ago when my RO unit broke, and I was using unfiltered water for water change. The more water change I did, the worser it got. It took over a week for the replacement RO/DI unit to come, but I was able to rid all of the cyano by using Vodka alone. Just remember to start slow.

Don't use chemical to kill cyano. It'll work once or twice, but the cyano will eventually be immuned to it.

Newreeflady · 06/27/2008, 08:24 PM

First, Damn it chris4869, I thought there was a fly on my screen!

Last, I don't have much to add to the great comments. Definitely remove the canister. Use it with the micron filter now and again to polish the water, or with a carbon insert to remove problem chemicals, but not full-time! And, as was said, forget the bio media.

The help before you lose another coral is to do water changes with saltwater made from RO/DI and a good reef salt mix. The rest will come in time. Manual removal can go a long way. Also, get a clean-up crew if you haven't already got one. Also, as was said, good flow will help keep cyano at bay (given that you've satisfied other circumstances!)

Good luck!
-A

P.S. I have used chemicals to kill cyano. I know, I know, but when all else fails. Just be sure to have plenty of make-up saltwater on hand, as well as that canister filter cleaned and filled with carbon media to put on if any trouble or when the product says to. It is always a gamble with cure-all chemicals. Just know that you will have to tackle the root of the problem as well.

hapka16 · 06/27/2008, 11:49 PM

I am using RO water that i get from my LFS. I've just switched to Tropic Marin salt and am about to do a 20% water change. As far as flow goes, I've calculated that i'm at about 38.5x flow (1155 GPH in my 30 Gallon). Here's a question for ya...I've been recommended to get a fluidized reactor to put phosban or the like in to keep phosphate levels low...would you recommend this for my tank? Also, what would be a good one and how much do they normally run. I'm in doctorate school to be a chiropractor and am on a tight budget so i can't afford anything crazy yet until after i graduate in a 1.5 years.

P.S. Thanks for all the great advice...my LFS's don't have that knowledgeable of people working. Not sure what i'd do with you guys.

hapka16 · 06/27/2008, 11:51 PM

Oh yeah and i just test my dKH and it's at 9. Should i try to get this higher to around 12? I'm just using Kent's superbuffer dKH, should i use something like seachem's reef builder?

Newreeflady · 06/28/2008, 09:07 AM

They are cheap, about $30 and in lieu of water changes this may be helpful. I am not a huge fan, but a lot of people are so definitely read up on Phosban reactors. If you're going to run it I recommend running the output through carbon. jme.

Also, RO water is not sufficient although better than tap. I would absolutely look into getting a cheap RO/DI unit, or possibly just buying distilled water at the grocery market.

Tropic Marin is a good salt, although perhaps a little overpriced. I have used reefcrystals and seachem reef with good results as well as Tropic Marin. I am not a fan of the Tropic Marin Pro Coral salt as the levels have, ime, been out of wack.

I am sure you know this, but you need to test and keep the pH in check. Perhaps it is good for you, but if it's out of wack that could contribute to problems as well. Between 8-8.3 is optimal, with 7.9 & 8.4 being the low & high that outside of those I'd worry about. The Seachem stuff might work, but usually the supplements that are just one powder cause problems long-term unless you do lots of water changes. I like B-ionic. You do not need to worry too much about your dKh since it seems that you're running a softy tank.

Angela

hapka16 · 06/29/2008, 05:25 PM

Newreeflady...is that for the tree little fishes phosphate reactor? Are the good quality? I dont' want to buy one and have it stop working correctly really quick. What media would you recommend for it as well?

Newreeflady · 06/30/2008, 10:26 AM

got your pm and replied.

But, just to post here, yes that's the 2 little fishes brand. The reactor works fine. I am not a fan of running phosphate media anymore, but many are so you should look into it for yourself. I would suggest that if you do you start at 1/3 of the recommended dose and run all effluent through carbon.

jme.
-A

hapka16 · 07/03/2008, 05:34 PM

FrankthetankTX!!! thanks so much for the advice. I did what you said and am now clear of algae. I couldn't have done it without you and everyone else's help. Thanks.

06/27/2008, 04:03 PM	#1
hapka16 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: dallas, Texas Posts: 169	Algae outbreak in my 30 Gallon reef tank!!! I'm having a problem controlling an algae or cyano outbreak in my tank and it's already killed my kenya tree and about to kill a finger leather due to smothering. Can anyone help???? My ammonia,nitrate/ite, and phosphates are 0, calcium at 520 (is this too high?), and my pH is 8.2. My temp is steady at about 80-81 degrees F. I run my AquaC remora w/ surface skimmer nonstop and have only biological media and a pack of purigen in my canister filter. Please help before i lose another coral!!! Also, what supplements should i be adding and what is the best way to nurse back an injured coral?

06/27/2008, 04:21 PM	#2
FranktheTankTx Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 2,306	Oh man... Lots of unknowns here. What kind of water are you using? Right off the start... I notice a couple of things... Calcium is a little high. I would keep it around 425 - 475. PH looks good! I hate canister filters with reef tanks. Especially biological media! If you have LR, you don't need biological media. It's a nitrate trap. Even when your nitrates or phosphates test zero, they could still be present. I would remove the biological media... and give great consideration to removing the canister period. LR & a good skimmer are all you need on a reef tank for filtration. This is what I would do (not what everyone else would do): Next, do 25% water change with fresh RO/DI saltwater once a week for 4 weeks. Cut the lights off for 2 days completely. You can probably get away with 3 days... but 2 is all I feel comfortable with. 48 hours total. Then bring the lights back on at only 4 hours per day for 2 weeks. Then gradually work them back to your scheduled durations. Meanwhile... work on getting a refugium set up w/ 4-5" of LS & chaeto. An HOB refugium would work (small CPR AquaFuge2). I own this unit. In 4-6 weeks you should be better than ever if you follow these steps. I'm certain others will suggest some stuff. I promise my suggestions will work... but others' will too probably. __________________ Frank the Tank "What, I thought we were in the trust tree... in the nest? Are we not?" Current Tank Info: Custom Rimless 60g (30.5"x24.5"x18.5")

06/27/2008, 04:24 PM	#3
FranktheTankTx Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 2,306	Oh one more thing... Flow and feedings. Make sure you have a minimum of 30x flow in your tank. I would suggest shooting for 40x. Also, what/ how are you feeding? I feed my reef tanks 3 or 4 times per week. Everything can feed off the reef itself inbetween. Don't overfeed. __________________ Frank the Tank "What, I thought we were in the trust tree... in the nest? Are we not?" Current Tank Info: Custom Rimless 60g (30.5"x24.5"x18.5")

06/27/2008, 08:24 PM	#5
Newreeflady Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Ithaca, NY Posts: 4,840	First, Damn it chris4869, I thought there was a fly on my screen! Last, I don't have much to add to the great comments. Definitely remove the canister. Use it with the micron filter now and again to polish the water, or with a carbon insert to remove problem chemicals, but not full-time! And, as was said, forget the bio media. The help before you lose another coral is to do water changes with saltwater made from RO/DI and a good reef salt mix. The rest will come in time. Manual removal can go a long way. Also, get a clean-up crew if you haven't already got one. Also, as was said, good flow will help keep cyano at bay (given that you've satisfied other circumstances!) Good luck! -A P.S. I have used chemicals to kill cyano. I know, I know, but when all else fails. Just be sure to have plenty of make-up saltwater on hand, as well as that canister filter cleaned and filled with carbon media to put on if any trouble or when the product says to. It is always a gamble with cure-all chemicals. Just know that you will have to tackle the root of the problem as well. __________________ A university professor went to visit a famous Zen master. While the master quietly served tea, the professor talked about Zen. The master poured the visitor’s cup to the brim, and then kept pouring. The professor watched the overflowing cup until he could no longer restrain himself. “It’s overfull! No more will go in!” the professor blurted. “You are like this cup,” the master replied, “How can I show you Zen unless you first empty your cup.” Current Tank Info: 56g, 20g.

06/28/2008, 09:07 AM	#8
Newreeflady Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Ithaca, NY Posts: 4,840	They are cheap, about $30 and in lieu of water changes this may be helpful. I am not a huge fan, but a lot of people are so definitely read up on Phosban reactors. If you're going to run it I recommend running the output through carbon. jme. Also, RO water is not sufficient although better than tap. I would absolutely look into getting a cheap RO/DI unit, or possibly just buying distilled water at the grocery market. Tropic Marin is a good salt, although perhaps a little overpriced. I have used reefcrystals and seachem reef with good results as well as Tropic Marin. I am not a fan of the Tropic Marin Pro Coral salt as the levels have, ime, been out of wack. I am sure you know this, but you need to test and keep the pH in check. Perhaps it is good for you, but if it's out of wack that could contribute to problems as well. Between 8-8.3 is optimal, with 7.9 & 8.4 being the low & high that outside of those I'd worry about. The Seachem stuff might work, but usually the supplements that are just one powder cause problems long-term unless you do lots of water changes. I like B-ionic. You do not need to worry too much about your dKh since it seems that you're running a softy tank. Angela __________________ A university professor went to visit a famous Zen master. While the master quietly served tea, the professor talked about Zen. The master poured the visitor’s cup to the brim, and then kept pouring. The professor watched the overflowing cup until he could no longer restrain himself. “It’s overfull! No more will go in!” the professor blurted. “You are like this cup,” the master replied, “How can I show you Zen unless you first empty your cup.” Current Tank Info: 56g, 20g.

06/27/2008, 07:50 PM	#4
chris4869 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 1,006	Are you using RO/DI water? If you are, you might need to check to see if it's working (TDS meter). You can fix your problem fairly quickly by dosing a little of Vodka. Check the forum for the recommended amount. I had an outbreak half a year ago when my RO unit broke, and I was using unfiltered water for water change. The more water change I did, the worser it got. It took over a week for the replacement RO/DI unit to come, but I was able to rid all of the cyano by using Vodka alone. Just remember to start slow. Don't use chemical to kill cyano. It'll work once or twice, but the cyano will eventually be immuned to it.

06/27/2008, 11:49 PM	#6
hapka16 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: dallas, Texas Posts: 169	I am using RO water that i get from my LFS. I've just switched to Tropic Marin salt and am about to do a 20% water change. As far as flow goes, I've calculated that i'm at about 38.5x flow (1155 GPH in my 30 Gallon). Here's a question for ya...I've been recommended to get a fluidized reactor to put phosban or the like in to keep phosphate levels low...would you recommend this for my tank? Also, what would be a good one and how much do they normally run. I'm in doctorate school to be a chiropractor and am on a tight budget so i can't afford anything crazy yet until after i graduate in a 1.5 years. P.S. Thanks for all the great advice...my LFS's don't have that knowledgeable of people working. Not sure what i'd do with you guys.

06/27/2008, 11:51 PM	#7
hapka16 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: dallas, Texas Posts: 169	Oh yeah and i just test my dKH and it's at 9. Should i try to get this higher to around 12? I'm just using Kent's superbuffer dKH, should i use something like seachem's reef builder?

06/29/2008, 05:25 PM	#9
hapka16 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: dallas, Texas Posts: 169	Newreeflady...is that for the tree little fishes phosphate reactor? Are the good quality? I dont' want to buy one and have it stop working correctly really quick. What media would you recommend for it as well?

06/30/2008, 10:26 AM	#10
Newreeflady Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Ithaca, NY Posts: 4,840	got your pm and replied. But, just to post here, yes that's the 2 little fishes brand. The reactor works fine. I am not a fan of running phosphate media anymore, but many are so you should look into it for yourself. I would suggest that if you do you start at 1/3 of the recommended dose and run all effluent through carbon. jme. -A __________________ A university professor went to visit a famous Zen master. While the master quietly served tea, the professor talked about Zen. The master poured the visitor’s cup to the brim, and then kept pouring. The professor watched the overflowing cup until he could no longer restrain himself. “It’s overfull! No more will go in!” the professor blurted. “You are like this cup,” the master replied, “How can I show you Zen unless you first empty your cup.” Current Tank Info: 56g, 20g.

07/03/2008, 05:34 PM	#11
hapka16 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: dallas, Texas Posts: 169	FrankthetankTX!!! thanks so much for the advice. I did what you said and am now clear of algae. I couldn't have done it without you and everyone else's help. Thanks.