My acro frags always turn brown

Jpergamo · 07/25/2008, 02:56 PM

Hello all. Ive had my tank set up for the better part of a year now and it is full of life and everything is healthy and growing. Ive noticed though that when i buy a beautiful acropora frag of purple or blue or green and aclimate it to my tank, it eventually starts to lose some of its bright color and turns a more brown shade of the original color. im guessing that there are a number of possible reasons for this but was wondering if someone had any advice as to why this happens and how i can bring the beauty back to them.
parameters are all good. some but very little hair algea in fuge.
calc-420
dkh-9
ph- 8.2/8.4
phos-0 salifert
no4-0 salifert

speedo2wet · 07/25/2008, 02:58 PM

How big is the tank and what kind of lights are you burning?

Sk8r · 07/25/2008, 03:00 PM

Lights are usually the reason. Note: if you have any algae you have phosphate, and coral doesn't like it.

Jpergamo · 07/25/2008, 03:02 PM

well there is always phosphate in any aquarium and theres no problem. my tank specs are listed only with 4 koralia 4's now.

Tang Salad · 07/25/2008, 03:05 PM

4 koralia 4's is not much for a 180. This is likely a large part of the problem.

I agree with Sk8r. Ignore the PO4 tests; if you have algae then you have more PO4 than your SPS need. This is also very likely the reason for the brown colors.

Jpergamo · 07/25/2008, 03:14 PM

i dont believe the flow in the tank is the problem because of the positioning of the corals...po4 is could be a reason but there is about a fistful of Hair algae thruout the entire 225 gallon system so idk if its significant enough... the wierdest thing is that polyp extension and feeding is excellent, growth towards the flow is visible and significant also.

Tang Salad · 07/25/2008, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jpergamo
i dont believe the flow in the tank is the problem because of the positioning of the corals..

I think that if all 4 Korallias converged in the area where the SPS are then they could be getting enough flow. However this arrangement would very likely leave some partrs of the tank with extremely low flow. Not only do the SPS need high, turbulent flow, but the entire tank's LR needs similar flow in order to biologically remove PO4 and Nitrates.

Quote:

Originally posted by Jpergamo
the wierdest thing is that polyp extension and feeding is excellent, growth towards the flow is visible and significant also.

This is actually a good thing. It means the corals are healthy. If you really want to color them up better you should look into 1) PO4 removal media 2) More flow, better skimming 3) or a carb/bac driven system like Reef-resh, Zeovit or Prodibio.

Jpergamo · 07/25/2008, 03:32 PM

well my bday is in a few weeks so maybe i will up the flow any suggestions for a cost effective way? thank u so much by the way for ur help

Tang Salad · 07/25/2008, 03:34 PM

No problem

Tunze pumps are great. Another cheaper option would be more Korallias, some modded Maxijets etc.

Keep in mind, if you have many LPS or softies, they may not appreciate the increased flow.

Jpergamo · 07/25/2008, 03:40 PM

only 2 lps that are also positioned for lower flow.

seapug · 07/25/2008, 04:05 PM

I found the color of all my corals (especially SPS) vastly improved after a few weeks of running GFO in a PhosBan reactor.

davez104 · 07/25/2008, 04:19 PM

How old are your bulbs? They could have lost too much intensity if you have had them for a while.

Dave.

Jpergamo · 07/25/2008, 04:49 PM

bulbs are only about 6 months old 8 hrs a day

ahullsb · 07/25/2008, 07:26 PM

I agree with running a phosphate reactor. You should see quite a difference.

Dave VG · 07/26/2008, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by seapug
I found the color of all my corals (especially SPS) vastly improved after a few weeks of running GFO in a PhosBan reactor.

Ditto

Newreeflady · 07/26/2008, 10:58 AM

If you do the phosban reactor, please start with a very low dose of media. I lost most of my sps that way.

-A

crvz · 07/26/2008, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jpergamo
...po4 is could be a reason but there is about a fistful of Hair algae thruout the entire 225 gallon system so idk if its significant enough...

If algae grows, it's significant. Cautiously employ some sort of po4 removing media for a time and see how the system reacts.

07/25/2008, 02:56 PM	#1
Jpergamo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Queens NY Posts: 142	My acro frags always turn brown Hello all. Ive had my tank set up for the better part of a year now and it is full of life and everything is healthy and growing. Ive noticed though that when i buy a beautiful acropora frag of purple or blue or green and aclimate it to my tank, it eventually starts to lose some of its bright color and turns a more brown shade of the original color. im guessing that there are a number of possible reasons for this but was wondering if someone had any advice as to why this happens and how i can bring the beauty back to them. parameters are all good. some but very little hair algea in fuge. calc-420 dkh-9 ph- 8.2/8.4 phos-0 salifert no4-0 salifert __________________ Put a sweater on babe, your gonna get ich. Current Tank Info: 180 aga RR/ DIY sump-fuge with cheato, aqua c EV 240 mag18 driven, mag 18 return, 2xKorilia 4. DIY light 4X39 T-5 actinic, 2x 400w 10k.

07/25/2008, 03:00 PM	#3
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	Lights are usually the reason. Note: if you have any algae you have phosphate, and coral doesn't like it. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

07/25/2008, 03:02 PM	#4
Jpergamo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Queens NY Posts: 142	well there is always phosphate in any aquarium and theres no problem. my tank specs are listed only with 4 koralia 4's now. __________________ Put a sweater on babe, your gonna get ich. Current Tank Info: 180 aga RR/ DIY sump-fuge with cheato, aqua c EV 240 mag18 driven, mag 18 return, 2xKorilia 4. DIY light 4X39 T-5 actinic, 2x 400w 10k.

07/25/2008, 03:05 PM	#5
Tang Salad Algae skeptic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: 78702 Posts: 3,098	4 koralia 4's is not much for a 180. This is likely a large part of the problem. I agree with Sk8r. Ignore the PO4 tests; if you have algae then you have more PO4 than your SPS need. This is also very likely the reason for the brown colors. __________________ Your algae is not special. Current Tank Info: TBD ADA 120-P SPS NLPS

07/25/2008, 03:14 PM	#6
Jpergamo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Queens NY Posts: 142	i dont believe the flow in the tank is the problem because of the positioning of the corals...po4 is could be a reason but there is about a fistful of Hair algae thruout the entire 225 gallon system so idk if its significant enough... the wierdest thing is that polyp extension and feeding is excellent, growth towards the flow is visible and significant also. __________________ Put a sweater on babe, your gonna get ich. Current Tank Info: 180 aga RR/ DIY sump-fuge with cheato, aqua c EV 240 mag18 driven, mag 18 return, 2xKorilia 4. DIY light 4X39 T-5 actinic, 2x 400w 10k.

07/25/2008, 02:58 PM	#2
speedo2wet Sharks!!!! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Apopka, Florida Posts: 478	How big is the tank and what kind of lights are you burning?

07/25/2008, 03:32 PM	#8
Jpergamo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Queens NY Posts: 142	well my bday is in a few weeks so maybe i will up the flow any suggestions for a cost effective way? thank u so much by the way for ur help __________________ Put a sweater on babe, your gonna get ich. Current Tank Info: 180 aga RR/ DIY sump-fuge with cheato, aqua c EV 240 mag18 driven, mag 18 return, 2xKorilia 4. DIY light 4X39 T-5 actinic, 2x 400w 10k.

07/25/2008, 03:34 PM	#9
Tang Salad Algae skeptic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: 78702 Posts: 3,098	No problem Tunze pumps are great. Another cheaper option would be more Korallias, some modded Maxijets etc. Keep in mind, if you have many LPS or softies, they may not appreciate the increased flow. __________________ Your algae is not special. Current Tank Info: TBD ADA 120-P SPS NLPS

07/25/2008, 03:40 PM	#10
Jpergamo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Queens NY Posts: 142	only 2 lps that are also positioned for lower flow. __________________ Put a sweater on babe, your gonna get ich. Current Tank Info: 180 aga RR/ DIY sump-fuge with cheato, aqua c EV 240 mag18 driven, mag 18 return, 2xKorilia 4. DIY light 4X39 T-5 actinic, 2x 400w 10k.

07/25/2008, 04:05 PM	#11
seapug Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: 4980 ft. Posts: 7,954 Blog Entries: 1	I found the color of all my corals (especially SPS) vastly improved after a few weeks of running GFO in a PhosBan reactor. __________________ insert clever saying here. Current Tank Info: 200 gallon custom Marineland DD peninsular tank. LPS dominated mixed reef. Previous 90 gallon mixed reef TOTM April 2009.

07/25/2008, 04:19 PM	#12
davez104 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Beautiful Central Queensland, Australia Posts: 205	How old are your bulbs? They could have lost too much intensity if you have had them for a while. Dave. __________________ 150gal closed loop SPS reef - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736777 Current Tank Info: 700L total system volume, mega beckett skimmer, DSB, Cal reactor, 2 x 400W Icecaps in Lumenbright reflectors, Fishbowl moonlight computer, carbon and ecophos in FBFs. Flow via mega closed loop ;)

07/25/2008, 04:49 PM	#13
Jpergamo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Queens NY Posts: 142	bulbs are only about 6 months old 8 hrs a day __________________ Put a sweater on babe, your gonna get ich. Current Tank Info: 180 aga RR/ DIY sump-fuge with cheato, aqua c EV 240 mag18 driven, mag 18 return, 2xKorilia 4. DIY light 4X39 T-5 actinic, 2x 400w 10k.

07/25/2008, 07:26 PM	#14
ahullsb Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: sacramento, ca Posts: 2,729	I agree with running a phosphate reactor. You should see quite a difference. __________________ Andy Sacramento, CA Current Tank Info: 55 gallon reef w/20 gallon sump/ER135/ 75 pounds of live rock, 4 in sandbed, 2 b&w ocellaris clowns, yellow watchman/pistol, rosy scaled wrasse, Mystery wrasse, Copperbanded Butterfly, Lighting 48" outer orbit 2 150 mh/ 4 t5 actinics

07/26/2008, 10:58 AM	#16
Newreeflady Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Ithaca, NY Posts: 4,840	If you do the phosban reactor, please start with a very low dose of media. I lost most of my sps that way. -A __________________ A university professor went to visit a famous Zen master. While the master quietly served tea, the professor talked about Zen. The master poured the visitor’s cup to the brim, and then kept pouring. The professor watched the overflowing cup until he could no longer restrain himself. “It’s overfull! No more will go in!” the professor blurted. “You are like this cup,” the master replied, “How can I show you Zen unless you first empty your cup.” Current Tank Info: 56g, 20g.