dont know how true this is

feefer2 · 07/26/2008, 08:03 AM

I was at my lfs and i was talking to some guy that was in there and we got on the light subject and he said he has been running 2 /20.00 500 watt halogens and 48" pc light for antic over his 55 gallon tank for 3 years ,he also said that people dont beleive it but he said i can come over and look at it for myself. all types of sps whats your take on this ?

shaginwagon13 · 07/26/2008, 08:14 AM

I'm not exactly sure but I'm pretty sure those are industrial lights...the same kind that construction crews use at night and I do know that they gets extremely extremely hot after they have been on for a little while

feefer2 · 07/26/2008, 08:25 AM

I said the same thing about heat and he said that he hung the light 15 inches above the tank and mounted a 7 " fan blowing across the tank work fine .

shaginwagon13 · 07/26/2008, 08:57 AM

Well I mean if he somehow got it to work without evaporating tons of water every day and the heat isn't an issue for him then I guess it can be done. Personally I would never do it, I have three 250W Metal Halide's and they get hot enough during the day. With 500W lights I would be more scared of something catching fire but I'm not a professional with lights so I'm pretty sure where there's a will there's a way and if you wanted to bad enough you could get the 500W lights to work but I personally wouldn't do it.

Sk8r · 07/26/2008, 09:37 AM

I use one 250 watt mh 12000 9 inches above the water on a 54 corner bow. perfectly sufficient for acroporas.

snorvich · 07/26/2008, 12:43 PM

Well the problem would be evaporation and color control of the light spectrum.

rickyfins · 07/27/2008, 12:20 PM

You can probably grow anything under certain "high light" fixtures.

With spectrum in question on the other hand, most everything would be Brown I would guess.

If spectrum is not the question, then the heat would surely bleach/affect coral color.

I seriously doubt that you could do this without proper temp control on the tank and the room.

Using equipment known for heat definitely increases cost of equipment purchases to control heat, as well as increases operational costs. For the seriously minded reefer, who takes into consideration all the other options out there, would likely choose something a little (A LOT) more environment friendly, IMO.

chineseknife · 07/27/2008, 12:33 PM

Bulbs, Brands, Types, Wattages, Color Rendition, K-Rating...
What it boils down to is PPFD and PAR.
If you want coral growth you'll need a high par reading. If you want algae growth go with a lower par reading. I don't care which bulb/ballast/brand combination used, if the PAR and PPFD aren't there, there's no use in using it.
So, if this guy told you that he has 2x500watt 20k bulbs and a ballast running themn, and they produce growth of the right kind then great. If not, then not so great.
If all you are after is the actual colors you eyes see and what that does in terms of making fish/coral stand out based on the color spectrum then use any old bulb, flourescent, vho, halide, led...who cares.
The heighth of the lights over the surface of the water will affect light penetration and the amount of PAR and PPFD reaching the top/middle/bottom of the tank.
Run a fan and move the lights closer and those parameters increase the closer you get to the surface.
If you start with a crappy bulb/ballast combination then sometimes even sticking the light in the water(don't try this) won't generate enough PAR/PPFD.
All situations are different even if they sound the same. No two tanks are exactly the same even if they house the same inhabitants in the same type of set-up.
Research some more on what folks have used on their systems that are similar to yours in shape/size/and stock. Look at their results and adjust them to suit your needs.
Any fan being run over the surface of the water or directed at the lights themselves, no matter size/shape/etc will help cool things down, as will the distance above the water.

Playa-1 · 07/27/2008, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by feefer2
I was at my lfs and i was talking to some guy that was in there and we got on the light subject and he said he has been running 2 /20.00 500 watt halogens and 48" pc light for antic over his 55 gallon tank for 3 years ,he also said that people dont beleive it but he said i can come over and look at it for myself. all types of sps whats your take on this ?

Some people use refrigerator boxes and plastic tarps as their house. I wouldn't recommend it, but it can be done.
If you want a DIY platform just use a retro kit.

chineseknife · 07/27/2008, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Playa-1
Some people use refrigerator boxes and plastic tarps as their house. I wouldn't recommend it, but it can be done.
If you want a DIY platform just use a retro kit.

What I was trying to say, but way more concise. Thanks.

07/26/2008, 08:03 AM	#1
feefer2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Cumberland Posts: 157	dont know how true this is I was at my lfs and i was talking to some guy that was in there and we got on the light subject and he said he has been running 2 /20.00 500 watt halogens and 48" pc light for antic over his 55 gallon tank for 3 years ,he also said that people dont beleive it but he said i can come over and look at it for myself. all types of sps whats your take on this ?

07/26/2008, 08:14 AM	#2
shaginwagon13 Chartered Accountant Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 2,219	I'm not exactly sure but I'm pretty sure those are industrial lights...the same kind that construction crews use at night and I do know that they gets extremely extremely hot after they have been on for a little while __________________ - Shaginwagon - Current Tank Info: 550 Gallon SPS Reef l 200 Gallon Sump l Skimmer: Vertex Alpha 250 l Return Pump: Reeflo Hammerhead l Tank Circulation: (2) Maxspect Gyre XF280 l Lighting: (3) 400w Halides & (3) AI Hydra 52 HD

07/26/2008, 08:57 AM	#4
shaginwagon13 Chartered Accountant Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 2,219	Well I mean if he somehow got it to work without evaporating tons of water every day and the heat isn't an issue for him then I guess it can be done. Personally I would never do it, I have three 250W Metal Halide's and they get hot enough during the day. With 500W lights I would be more scared of something catching fire but I'm not a professional with lights so I'm pretty sure where there's a will there's a way and if you wanted to bad enough you could get the 500W lights to work but I personally wouldn't do it. __________________ - Shaginwagon - Current Tank Info: 550 Gallon SPS Reef l 200 Gallon Sump l Skimmer: Vertex Alpha 250 l Return Pump: Reeflo Hammerhead l Tank Circulation: (2) Maxspect Gyre XF280 l Lighting: (3) 400w Halides & (3) AI Hydra 52 HD

07/26/2008, 09:37 AM	#5
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	I use one 250 watt mh 12000 9 inches above the water on a 54 corner bow. perfectly sufficient for acroporas. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

07/26/2008, 12:43 PM	#6
snorvich Team RC member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Outlander Posts: 40,953 Blog Entries: 46	Well the problem would be evaporation and color control of the light spectrum. __________________ Warmest regards, ~Steve~

07/26/2008, 08:25 AM	#3
feefer2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Cumberland Posts: 157	I said the same thing about heat and he said that he hung the light 15 inches above the tank and mounted a 7 " fan blowing across the tank work fine .

07/27/2008, 12:20 PM	#7
rickyfins Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Smithmill,PA Posts: 1,439	You can probably grow anything under certain "high light" fixtures. With spectrum in question on the other hand, most everything would be Brown I would guess. If spectrum is not the question, then the heat would surely bleach/affect coral color. I seriously doubt that you could do this without proper temp control on the tank and the room. Using equipment known for heat definitely increases cost of equipment purchases to control heat, as well as increases operational costs. For the seriously minded reefer, who takes into consideration all the other options out there, would likely choose something a little (A LOT) more environment friendly, IMO. __________________ Thanks, Rick Absorbing information through OSMOSIS Yea, I can grow that. Have some water? It's just SCIENCE!! Offical NCPARS "Nazi Thread Ender" Current Tank Info: None at the moment.

07/27/2008, 12:33 PM	#8
chineseknife Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Charlotte, N.C. Posts: 505	Bulbs, Brands, Types, Wattages, Color Rendition, K-Rating... What it boils down to is PPFD and PAR. If you want coral growth you'll need a high par reading. If you want algae growth go with a lower par reading. I don't care which bulb/ballast/brand combination used, if the PAR and PPFD aren't there, there's no use in using it. So, if this guy told you that he has 2x500watt 20k bulbs and a ballast running themn, and they produce growth of the right kind then great. If not, then not so great. If all you are after is the actual colors you eyes see and what that does in terms of making fish/coral stand out based on the color spectrum then use any old bulb, flourescent, vho, halide, led...who cares. The heighth of the lights over the surface of the water will affect light penetration and the amount of PAR and PPFD reaching the top/middle/bottom of the tank. Run a fan and move the lights closer and those parameters increase the closer you get to the surface. If you start with a crappy bulb/ballast combination then sometimes even sticking the light in the water(don't try this) won't generate enough PAR/PPFD. All situations are different even if they sound the same. No two tanks are exactly the same even if they house the same inhabitants in the same type of set-up. Research some more on what folks have used on their systems that are similar to yours in shape/size/and stock. Look at their results and adjust them to suit your needs. Any fan being run over the surface of the water or directed at the lights themselves, no matter size/shape/etc will help cool things down, as will the distance above the water. __________________ What's a water change? Current Tank Info: 90g Mixed Reef