Please help with my new RO system....

jden092901 · 10/14/2008, 10:36 PM

I just set up my new RO/DI system. I turned it on and water filled the first 3 chambers (its a 6 mem system). After it got to the drain tube (black tube) it started to come out of there and it wont stop. Does it just drain water all the time out of that tube? Its filling up the DI tubes now. Just making sure its done right.

Josh

Playa-1 · 10/15/2008, 08:51 AM

Gotta love these manufacturers that do not include instructions.

I would expect that your filter has a water inlet.
3 prefilters such as sediment and carbon
1 RO membrane
2 DI filters

If this is the way your unit is set up then you would expect to see the water fill the first three stages of the filter. Then you would notice the reject water line to start flowing. This is the water that was not forced thru the RO membrane. This water is slightly higher in tds then your tap water. It can be captured and used for other purposes around the house.
At the RO membrane a percentage of the water is forced thru the membrane and would then travel to the DI stage. After the DI stage is filled with water you should notice the water start to slowly flow or drip from the tube. This would be the RO/DI filtered water. Use a tds meter if your unsure of which water is filtered.

Keep in mind that your filter may not be set up exactly like the one that I described but the general function should be about the same. Depending on the filter and the features you could have additional lines coming from the filter for a membrane back-flush line and/or a RO only line.

You best bet would be to get instructions for your specific unit from the manufacturer.

WaterKeeper · 10/15/2008, 09:34 AM

Normally a typical RO section reject 3-4 gallons for each gallon that goes into the DI section.

AZDesertRat · 10/15/2008, 10:10 AM

What unit do you have? Did it come with an autoshutoff valve and do you have it plumbed to a float valve or some other device to shut it off? Do you have ball valves or any way to shut it off?
As Waterkeeper said, when the unit is in operation you will see approx 4:1 waste to good water, this is what flushed the membrane and keeps it clean. If the unit has an autoshutoff valve installed and you stop the flow of good water with either a float valve, solenoid valve or even a ball valve the waste stream should also shut off in a short time.
Without knowing what you have and how it is installed its tough to troubleshoot.

avel · 10/15/2008, 10:16 AM

Also don't use the first gallon. Do you have a pressure gauge on the there? The RO unit can become damaged if it is too high. If the water pressure is too low, you won't get any water. My RO/DI unit works between 40 - 80 psi.

AZDesertRat · 10/15/2008, 10:21 AM

An RO works best between 60 and 100 psi with 50 being about the minimum for good quality and production. The lower your pressure the lower the rejection rate and production (GPD) will be. Membranes will actually work at 200+ psi but the housings and fittings are only rated for 125 psi working pressure, and thats only if they are rated in the USA by ANSI/NSF and UPC. Most imported units are not approved by these organizations and all bets are off.

WaterKeeper · 10/15/2008, 11:34 AM

What A.J.?

You don't have a 400 psi unit to run that home brewery of yours?

Josh,

Industrial units run at that and even higher pressures to give higher efficiency. Home RO's seldom see even a hundred psi. Hence, lower output to waste ratios. If you have low water pressure then a booster pump will save you money in the long run as you waste less water. Just don't try to push the pressure past the membrane's rating.

AZDesertRat · 10/15/2008, 11:41 AM

Naw,
I cut the booster pressure back to 100 psi so I am only getting 120 GPD out of my 75 GPD membrane now! But the additional pressure and Select membrane are giving me 99.43% rejection rate at 1:1 waste ratio though. Love not having to pay for all that water and waste being treated by the City!
And I just happen to have a nice American style IPA in the old fermenter bubbling away. Just in time too, my double hopped pale ale is about to go dry! Oh, the joys of sipping a nice frosty adult beverage while gazing at the reef!

WaterKeeper · 10/15/2008, 06:29 PM

If I were to consume too much Bow Brewery ale I'd be in the tank.

10/14/2008, 10:36 PM	#1
jden092901 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 367	Please help with my new RO system.... I just set up my new RO/DI system. I turned it on and water filled the first 3 chambers (its a 6 mem system). After it got to the drain tube (black tube) it started to come out of there and it wont stop. Does it just drain water all the time out of that tube? Its filling up the DI tubes now. Just making sure its done right. Josh __________________ 120 Gallon Reef 40 Gallon breeder sump/fuge ASM G3 skimmer Mag 12 return pump Sea swirls and 2 Koralia 4's Filter sock 200 lbs live rock 140 lbs live sand Current Tank Info: 120 gallon reef

10/15/2008, 09:34 AM	#3
WaterKeeper Bogus Information Expert Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 16,147	Normally a typical RO section reject 3-4 gallons for each gallon that goes into the DI section. __________________ "Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29

10/15/2008, 11:34 AM	#7
WaterKeeper Bogus Information Expert Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 16,147	What A.J.? You don't have a 400 psi unit to run that home brewery of yours? Josh, Industrial units run at that and even higher pressures to give higher efficiency. Home RO's seldom see even a hundred psi. Hence, lower output to waste ratios. If you have low water pressure then a booster pump will save you money in the long run as you waste less water. Just don't try to push the pressure past the membrane's rating. __________________ "Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29

10/15/2008, 06:29 PM	#9
WaterKeeper Bogus Information Expert Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 16,147	If I were to consume too much Bow Brewery ale I'd be in the tank. __________________ "Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29

10/15/2008, 08:51 AM	#2
Playa-1 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Laguna Niguel, CA Posts: 7,497	Gotta love these manufacturers that do not include instructions. I would expect that your filter has a water inlet. 3 prefilters such as sediment and carbon 1 RO membrane 2 DI filters If this is the way your unit is set up then you would expect to see the water fill the first three stages of the filter. Then you would notice the reject water line to start flowing. This is the water that was not forced thru the RO membrane. This water is slightly higher in tds then your tap water. It can be captured and used for other purposes around the house. At the RO membrane a percentage of the water is forced thru the membrane and would then travel to the DI stage. After the DI stage is filled with water you should notice the water start to slowly flow or drip from the tube. This would be the RO/DI filtered water. Use a tds meter if your unsure of which water is filtered. Keep in mind that your filter may not be set up exactly like the one that I described but the general function should be about the same. Depending on the filter and the features you could have additional lines coming from the filter for a membrane back-flush line and/or a RO only line. You best bet would be to get instructions for your specific unit from the manufacturer.

10/15/2008, 10:10 AM	#4
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	What unit do you have? Did it come with an autoshutoff valve and do you have it plumbed to a float valve or some other device to shut it off? Do you have ball valves or any way to shut it off? As Waterkeeper said, when the unit is in operation you will see approx 4:1 waste to good water, this is what flushed the membrane and keeps it clean. If the unit has an autoshutoff valve installed and you stop the flow of good water with either a float valve, solenoid valve or even a ball valve the waste stream should also shut off in a short time. Without knowing what you have and how it is installed its tough to troubleshoot.

10/15/2008, 10:16 AM	#5
avel Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Washougal, Washington Posts: 58	Also don't use the first gallon. Do you have a pressure gauge on the there? The RO unit can become damaged if it is too high. If the water pressure is too low, you won't get any water. My RO/DI unit works between 40 - 80 psi.

10/15/2008, 10:21 AM	#6
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	An RO works best between 60 and 100 psi with 50 being about the minimum for good quality and production. The lower your pressure the lower the rejection rate and production (GPD) will be. Membranes will actually work at 200+ psi but the housings and fittings are only rated for 125 psi working pressure, and thats only if they are rated in the USA by ANSI/NSF and UPC. Most imported units are not approved by these organizations and all bets are off.

10/15/2008, 11:41 AM	#8
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Naw, I cut the booster pressure back to 100 psi so I am only getting 120 GPD out of my 75 GPD membrane now! But the additional pressure and Select membrane are giving me 99.43% rejection rate at 1:1 waste ratio though. Love not having to pay for all that water and waste being treated by the City! And I just happen to have a nice American style IPA in the old fermenter bubbling away. Just in time too, my double hopped pale ale is about to go dry! Oh, the joys of sipping a nice frosty adult beverage while gazing at the reef!