Auto Top-Off, Someone show me how theres is setup.

Vapour1ze · 10/20/2008, 10:50 PM

Wondering if anyone had any pics of how theres is setup, I would like to get one for my 90 that I'm setting up it has a sump underneath, that I could possibly run the top off to, I'm just not sure how they work etc, so I was wondering what there was for good ones to buy and if anyone had pictures to post,

Good one for under 150$?

and pictures please...

THANKS

qfrisco · 10/21/2008, 01:54 PM

I'm away from home right now so can't do pics, but my setup cost me about $75. You can certainly go crazy and spend a bunch of money on one, but my setup has been working flawlessly for almost a year now.

Here's my setup:

- Double-Switch Controller from autotopoff.com ($50). This is mounted in the return section of my sump.
- 10 gallon Rubbermaid trash can under the tank, right next to the sump (free as I already had a spare one laying around)
- A MicroJet powerhead in the bottom of the trash can, with silicone tubing running from the powerhead's output to my sump ($15 for the powerhead, and the tubing I already had laying around)

That's it. The Double-switch Controller is mounted to the side of the return section of my sump. The return section is where evaporation shows up in your sump. The main float switch (the lower one) closes when the water gets lower than the level you set. The secondary float switch (the higher one) is a back-up that shuts off in the event the main one sticks and causes the pump to fill your sump with too much water. So far, my main float switch hasn't stuck yet.

The MicroJet's power cord is plugged into the Double Switch Controller. So when the water drops below a certain level, the main float switch closes, which turns power on to the MicroJet, which pumps water into the sump, raising its water level. As the water rises sufficiently, the main float switch opens, which shuts off power to the MicroJet.

Just make sure the output of the silicone tubing is higher than the highest water level possible in the trash can, or the water will siphon over to the sump, even after the MicroJet shuts off.

Works perfectly on my 90g. The 10g trash can lasts about a week, so I just fill it back up with RO/DI water weekly or so.

Hope that helps!

crvz · 10/21/2008, 02:50 PM

I built mine from parts at mcmaster.com. Just a couple solenoids, float switches, and some plumbing, I was able to build a very reliable system for under $75. Here's an old link. You can plumb this right into the RO/DI unit (if you're risky) or to a gravity fed reservoir.

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f2...ml#post1005122

10/20/2008, 10:50 PM	#1
Vapour1ze I'm an Addict. Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Yorkville, IL Posts: 3,036	Auto Top-Off, Someone show me how theres is setup. Wondering if anyone had any pics of how theres is setup, I would like to get one for my 90 that I'm setting up it has a sump underneath, that I could possibly run the top off to, I'm just not sure how they work etc, so I was wondering what there was for good ones to buy and if anyone had pictures to post, Good one for under 150$? and pictures please... THANKS __________________ 93 Reef \| 220 Reef \| Basement Fish Life Support Room \| Empty Savings Account

10/21/2008, 02:50 PM	#3
crvz Team RC Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: houstonia Posts: 7,989	I built mine from parts at mcmaster.com. Just a couple solenoids, float switches, and some plumbing, I was able to build a very reliable system for under $75. Here's an old link. You can plumb this right into the RO/DI unit (if you're risky) or to a gravity fed reservoir. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f2...ml#post1005122 __________________ -Chris- You don't win friends with salad. "Look! They're trying to learn for free!" ... "Use your phony guns as clubs!" Current Tank Info: rectangluar? wet?

10/21/2008, 01:54 PM	#2
qfrisco Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Dallas, TX Area Posts: 1,389	I'm away from home right now so can't do pics, but my setup cost me about $75. You can certainly go crazy and spend a bunch of money on one, but my setup has been working flawlessly for almost a year now. Here's my setup: - Double-Switch Controller from autotopoff.com ($50). This is mounted in the return section of my sump. - 10 gallon Rubbermaid trash can under the tank, right next to the sump (free as I already had a spare one laying around) - A MicroJet powerhead in the bottom of the trash can, with silicone tubing running from the powerhead's output to my sump ($15 for the powerhead, and the tubing I already had laying around) That's it. The Double-switch Controller is mounted to the side of the return section of my sump. The return section is where evaporation shows up in your sump. The main float switch (the lower one) closes when the water gets lower than the level you set. The secondary float switch (the higher one) is a back-up that shuts off in the event the main one sticks and causes the pump to fill your sump with too much water. So far, my main float switch hasn't stuck yet. The MicroJet's power cord is plugged into the Double Switch Controller. So when the water drops below a certain level, the main float switch closes, which turns power on to the MicroJet, which pumps water into the sump, raising its water level. As the water rises sufficiently, the main float switch opens, which shuts off power to the MicroJet. Just make sure the output of the silicone tubing is higher than the highest water level possible in the trash can, or the water will siphon over to the sump, even after the MicroJet shuts off. Works perfectly on my 90g. The 10g trash can lasts about a week, so I just fill it back up with RO/DI water weekly or so. Hope that helps!