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11/04/2008, 09:13 AM | #1 |
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another pvc question
i know you all are tired of me by now...but here it is...I have a dart and am setting it up on my 110 reef tank.....i am still in the water test mode. I used Teflon paste on the exit of the dart and used it for the intake threads also.....but i got loads of it floating around in my tank....i had to redo a ball valve before to stop another leak so i used teflon tape instead on the intake for the dart...i hand tightened and used a wrench for another 1/4-1/2 turn.....problem is now that i have a small leak still.....can i glue the threads?? can i use purple primer and the "hot cement glue"--its blue and seems to be stronger then the clear pvc clue or should i use more tape....i went around my 2inch male end about 2 and half times....i thought if i did more then that it might be bad.....also would using the wrench mess up the teflon too much or something.....should i just have hand tightened it very hard. Thanks for the help!!!
-MATT |
11/04/2008, 09:24 AM | #2 |
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1st.. (and I know I am going to get flamed)... but dont use telfon tape, use silicone. Silicone will allow you to remove the connection later while maintaining a good seal.
You want to use silicone 1 not 2 Do not glue the threads!!!... use silicone
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Vertex Alpha 300 Skimmer, AI SOL Blue, Neptune Apex Controlled 360 gallon Reef Current Tank Info: born 6/26/2008- 340 reef + 100 fuge, 300lbs of figi LR |
11/04/2008, 09:25 AM | #3 |
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if you dont plan to take it apart you can use the 2 part cleaner / glue
(often purple in color) without concern for toxicity but good silicone (I use good GE silicone) is a great idea... then you might be able to get these things apart if you need to.... |
11/04/2008, 09:28 AM | #4 |
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thanks i e-mailed reeflo about 5mins ago and they said the same....great customer service...i just thought silicone worked better on glass and not as well as pvc stuff??
thanks for the replys all!! |
11/04/2008, 09:29 AM | #5 |
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yeah you can glue it and then use a unit a little bit past the pump so you can still disconnect the pump for cleaning and what not
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11/04/2008, 09:29 AM | #6 |
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11/04/2008, 09:32 AM | #7 |
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i have a 2inch true union ball valve right off the pump....another thing is that the union part i used tape on also because it was thread and that had a SUPER slow leak also lol....i guess some stuff is my luck...but the stuff i re glued is doing well at least!
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11/04/2008, 09:39 AM | #8 |
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I would recommend re-taping the male ends. I usually wrap 7-10 times around the male end. especially if you're dealing with a 1.5 or 2? connection found on the dart. Don't over tighten, the tape will do the sealing for you.
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11/04/2008, 09:42 AM | #9 |
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oh thanks i heard that it would crack the housing but i think thats just one the exit now the intake...that part looks verrrrry strong
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11/04/2008, 10:36 AM | #10 |
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First things first. remove all tape from the threads and grooves and look closely at the threads. You will very probably find PVC flashing or excess material left over from the molding process. This scrap cuts teflon tape causing it to bunch up or tear creating leaks.
Before you do anything, take a jewelers file, nail file, pocket or Xacto knife and clean out all the thread surfaces both male and female. You would be surprised how much difference this makes in sealing up leaks. I am not a fan of teflon tape on PVC screw fittings. The swimming pool contractor that installed my in ground pool 25 years ago turned me on to thread sealant sticks and I swear by them. You can get them at any hardware store under trade names like LaCo or Loctite or even Ace hardware has their own. They look like a fat crayon in a cardboard tube, you push it up and wipe it on the threads and it stays pliable from now on. My pool is 25 years old and the pumps are still drip tight even out in the Phoenix sunlight all those years. I can still work the putty with my fingers and its still pliable. Nothing seals PVC like they do! |
11/04/2008, 01:08 PM | #11 |
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thanks AZ i will check that stuff out
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11/04/2008, 08:00 PM | #12 |
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