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Unread 11/12/2008, 08:27 AM   #1
benak89
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pros and cons of canister filter

? lol anyone wanna share there thoughts


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Unread 11/12/2008, 08:38 AM   #2
Michael
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pros, adds to the water volume, can be good for using carbon, can connect to a UV light, cons, if filled with bio media can become a nitrate trap if not cleaned regulary, a pain in the backside as you need to keep shutting them down to clean them, overall though they can be useful, but i wouldnt use 1 again


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Unread 11/12/2008, 08:41 AM   #3
benak89
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ok cool.. someone in my area had a fluval or whatever 350 for like 50 bucks so i was thinking about taking it but idk thats the last thing i need more to worry about..


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Unread 11/12/2008, 09:41 AM   #4
Juruense
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I used to be a huge fan of cannisters, had many Fluvals and Magnums.

I stopped using them because they are a hassle to clean, can crack/leak, and are expensive.

Now I just use drop in Fluval3 or Fluval4 which go inside the tank or sump. This is much better with no hoses and no possibility of leakout on floor.

I would not even consider cannister unless for fresh water and even then there are better options.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 09:43 AM   #5
Hungriee
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a fan for Freshwater setups - for reef its a disaster other than use for carbon, UV connector. It collects debris and builds nitrates


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Unread 11/12/2008, 09:47 AM   #6
IslandCrow
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I have a canister filter I use one week out of each month with a micron filter just for water polishing. It just makes my water that much more crystal clear. It's one of the Magnum HOT models, so I just hang it on the side of my sump while I'm using it, and remove it and rinse it off when I'm done. So, it's really not much of a pain at all. If you don't have the time to clean it regularly (or just not use it all the time in my case), I think they work very well. Otherwise, as stated, it can be one more detritus trap.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 10:03 AM   #7
Juruense
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Oh yeah, I would use a diatomaceous earth cannister for water polishing... Forgot about that application. To me the only application that makes sense for cannister.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 10:42 AM   #8
SEAFROG
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water polishing

For water polishing it would be ok .But just use a filter sock to do the
same thing . let it go for 2 to 3 days and replace with a clean one.
this way no parts to buy.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 11:33 AM   #9
texhorns98
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I would like to chime in on this one as I have a Fluval 305 on my system. My problem is with the bulkheads on my tank. They seem to ONLY work with Fluval hoses. I've asked around a few LFS and they confirm I'll have a hard time using anything but the canister (even if I have to use it as a pump system for a sump). I've had mine running for 3 months now with no nitrate problems. I just make sure to clean out the sponges twice a month. I even left the ceramics in there.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 11:43 AM   #10
Juruense
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Well diatomaceous earth filters down to 1 micron with very little back pressure. I seriously doubt any filter sock would perform even close to that.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 11:52 AM   #11
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I've had an external canister setup on my system since day 1, it contains all the bio media / ceramics / sponges / and filter media etc. Systems been running now for 3 years with no adverse effects and zero Nitrates.

Why am I still using it ?, well if its not broke why change it ? I've often considered taking it off line, but have been hesitant as everythings been fine with it, and I'm concerned that it may cause an inbalance if I take it out.

I do it clean frequently, about once every two weeks, take each basket out and give them a quick swish in a bucket of tank water while I'm doing a water change, and replace the filter media & carbon pad.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 11:54 AM   #12
tmz
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I use two fluval's .
404 serves as a carbon box on the(550g) main system. I also use the sponges to prefilter water going to a uv. I do not use the ceramic media,over time I believe it produces nitrate. .I am trying some Seachem matrix media in it along with bio marine polypad.

When I started I ran a 90g reef on a canister with no sump for about 2yrs.with no issues.I did frequent water changes though.

I also run a 65 g soft coral/mushroom tank without a sump. I use the 304 on it with the sponges, carbon, polypad and the matrix media. I does a fine job in this application.

Both are cleaned every 14 days.

A canister can also be a very helpful tool in maintenance for cleaning detritus from the sump or water polishing as noted by Mike C.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 12:59 PM   #13
IslandCrow
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Quote:
For water polishing it would be ok .But just use a filter sock to do the same thing.
I use a 1 micron filter. I don't think they make filter socks that can remove particles that small. You really need a good amount of water pressure to push it through. I definitely don't consider a canister filter a necessary piece of equipment, though. I bought it back when I didn't know any better in order to run carbon. Now, since I have it, I just making the best use of it.


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Last edited by IslandCrow; 11/12/2008 at 01:32 PM.
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Unread 11/12/2008, 02:57 PM   #14
tmz
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Quote:
Originally posted by IslandCrow
I use a 1 micron filter. I don't think they make filter socks that can remove particles that small. You really need a good amount of water pressure to push it through. I definitely don't consider a canister filter a necessary piece of equipment, though. I bought it back when I didn't know any better in order to run carbon. Now, since I have it, I just making the best use of it.
Which one micron filter would you recommend and where do you get it?


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 11/12/2008, 02:58 PM   #15
kevin2000
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The std negative associated with a canister filter is their tendancy to promote nitrates. Thats because they are a highly effective filtration system and if you don't clean the filter media on a regular basis they have the potential to produce significant nitrates.

I personally am a fan of a well maintained canister filter. I use them on my tanks to run phospan as well as to promote water movement. I also think they would be beneficial on tanks which don't have sumps or good quality skimmers.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 03:02 PM   #16
texhorns98
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kevin2000,

That's good to hear because I don't have a sump OR a skimmer!

I'll be sure to step up my cleaning regiment on the canister now though. Maybe once a week?


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Unread 11/12/2008, 03:39 PM   #17
gwenvet
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If you had 4 baskets in a canister filter, (no sump and no skimmer, but have a wet/dry with bio balls) what would you put in and in what order? I was just going to clean it out Friday...my first time on my own.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 04:00 PM   #18
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Good discussion folks. They improve water quality, clarity and, once you rinse them, flush all the goop they collect down the drain. The drawback is, unless cleaned, they can become biofilters and produce nitrates. If you clean one every week or so (more often if the flow drops off) they are great and you can also use them for running carbon, phosphate media or as a circulating pump for the QT or hospital tank. IMO worth the investment.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 06:50 PM   #19
tmz
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Quote:
Originally posted by gwenvet
If you had 4 baskets in a canister filter, (no sump and no skimmer, but have a wet/dry with bio balls) what would you put in and in what order? I was just going to clean it out Friday...my first time on my own.
First I would not use bioballs since they are nitrifiers not denitrifiers. Live Rock and or sand in your display or sump should handle your nitrification and denitrification needs. As for the baskets, I use carbon on the bottom, poly pad next and some Seachem Matrix media in the next two. This is a chunky gravel like media that is very porous( some of the rocks actually float ) . Sea Chem claims the porosity offers anoxic zones suitable for denitrification, I'm skeptical that the may not be deep enough.. I have not heard anecdotal claims to support this but I am trying it. I used to only use the carbon and polypad.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 11/12/2008, 08:21 PM   #20
IslandCrow
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Quote:
Which one micron filter would you recommend and where do you get it?
This is what I use, but I believe it's pretty specific to the Magnum canister filters: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...CCT~tab~0.html. If you have a different canister filter, you'll need to get one made for your model. I'm thinking 1 micron is 1 micron, so it's probably not going to matter much which exact brand filter you get.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 08:57 PM   #21
tmz
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Thanks


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 11/12/2008, 09:08 PM   #22
kevin2000
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The magnum micro filter is considered a polishing filter .. not really designed to run on a full time basis and has pretty limited application. Never used the polishing filter much when I had a Magnum and then I tossed the Magnum because its kinda of PIA to use compared to most of the other canister filters - just my 02.

You might take a look at the old Vortex diatom filters -- kinda of a pain to setup/maintain but if your looking for super fine mechanical filtration I doubt anything can match them.


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Unread 11/12/2008, 09:56 PM   #23
tmz
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Thanks Kevin. Just looking for something to use when I clean the sumps. I don't rely on very much mechanical filtration.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 11/12/2008, 10:05 PM   #24
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I just acquired a 66 gallon tank yesterday. It has been running on a rena canister filter for over a year. I recently added a coralife superskimmer to the back of the tank (no sump).

My question is:
If I clean the canister and replace its media 2 times a month, with regular water changes.... Is this enough filtration for a variety of corals and fish?

What is better?
1) a sump/fuge with filter sock, live rock, cheato and a skimmer?

2) run sumpless, with a rena canister filter + hang on skimmer?

If there is a difference.... Is it a BIG one?

Thanks


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Unread 11/12/2008, 10:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fluidmovement
I just acquired a 66 gallon tank yesterday. It has been running on a rena canister filter for over a year. I recently added a coralife superskimmer to the back of the tank (no sump).

My question is:
If I clean the canister and replace its media 2 times a month, with regular water changes.... Is this enough filtration for a variety of corals and fish?

What is better?
1) a sump/fuge with filter sock, live rock, cheato and a skimmer?

2) run sumpless, with a rena canister filter + hang on skimmer?

If there is a difference.... Is it a BIG one?Thanks
sump/fuge, live rock, cheato and a skimmer by far filter sock optional
here is a brief explanation why.
there are three bacteria invovled in the nitrogen cycle

aerobic bacteria--surfaces of live rock and sand bed--break down ammonia to nitrites

anerobic bacteria---inner surface of live rock and under the surface of sand---break down nitrites to nitrates

anoxic bacteria---deep inner core of live rock ,deep layers of the sand bed--break down nitrates to nitrogen gas which leaves the system

live rock and the sand bed are the only things that can support all three forms of bacteria and therefor can completely break down ammonia to nitrogen gas

canister filters, hob filters, bioballs, ect can only support aerobic and anerobic bacteria and therefor evevtually get clogged with nitrates and these can be exported back into the water column

protein skimmer---gets rid of organics and some nitrates and phosphates that get bound up with the water loving organics.

fuge with cheato--as an algae it adsorbs phosphates and nitrates but you have to harvest the cheato regularily to permantly remove the nitrates at the same time.
In the process of photosythesis algae removes carbon dioxide from the water column and replaces some oxygen.
Fuges also are a place where inverts(copopods ect) can reproduce safely and can be food for the inhabitants of the display tank.


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