How does my sump plan look?

[fender4string]

I don't know how to post images so all I can provide is a link. The only thing I forgot to include is that I'll be using black, vinyl tubing for my return line.
Also, can anybody tell me, step-by-step how to post pics for future reference .
This post is also on the equipment forums but this forum gets more hits.

[buccard]

Here it is:

[Shiandy]

Here you go.

[wshfulthkn]

If it were me I would put one more ball valve so you can control the flow in to the refuge

Or

Maybe just move the one that you have down so you will have two ball valves one to control flow to refuge and one to shut off flow to skimmer side.

[buccard]

Just copy and paste the IMG code(bottom one) into the text box and BAM! there it is...took me a couple of tries too.

Hit preview reply to see if it worked...so you dont post a mistake!

Good luck....

[fender4string]

lol thanks guys-any comments? Also, I should pry mention the water level I drew in is approximated. How much control do I have over the water level in the return zone?

[fender4string]

Ok thanks wshfulthkn-I can do that as the plumbing is not yet finalized. I also added that angled baffle in the fuge section to prevent "sand storms" from occuring due to quickly draining water from the tank. The extra ball valve is a good idea. I want to get started tonight as I have the baffles cut and this is the last step before I get my tank up and running-my first-so I'm pretty pumped to get going. Just figured I'd clear the design first with the RC veterans out there

[buccard]

+1 on moving the valve...you want to control flow to the refugium which is why you would split the drain...Middle return is a good idea but think about your volume in the return because that is where the evaporation is going to occur...I lose a gallon per day on my tank.

If volume is low you will need to have an ATO or you will drive yourself crazy manually topping it off.

[fender4string]

Ok as to return zone volume-is there a way I can control the water height-like I said the water levels I drew were just guesses as I've never done this before. Can't I just add more water to the sump to adjust the water level in the return zone?

[wshfulthkn]

Water levels will depend on the amount that is draining out of the display. So, if you have 300GPH going out and a pump that will move 375GPH, depending on head pressure you can estimate what the level will be. I have seen some that will put another ball valve in the return line to dial down the return amount, however I would do a T in the return and put a ball valve to divert water back to the skimmer to control level in the display.....I know I keep saying more ball valves...

[_E_]

+2 on the separate ball valves for the return and skimmer. Also as wshfulthkn stated, teeing off your return line (with another ball valve) will help you balance the return flow with the overflows. Finally, yes you can just add more water to the sump to increase the level in the return section. Just make sure that you still have plenty of space for the DT to drain into if the power goes off.

[_E_]

How about like this:
[IMG][/IMG]
Oh, I almost forgot. You can raise that water level in the return only as high as your skimmer chamber. Any higher and both the skimmer and return will raise.

[fender4string]

Ok good design. I don't think I can use a ball valve if I am using vinyl tubing right? Should I switch the return to pvc?

[fender4string]

Also is the T with the ball valve back to the skimmer necessary if my tank drains 1200 gph and the pump is rated for 1200 gph before head loss?

[fender4string]

Sorry for the multiple posts but according to the head loss calc (assuming I put the figures in correctly) my pump (Dolphin DP-1200) is only good for 889 gph with the given pipe dimensions and length of the return path for my tank. So, with that in mind, is the T junction with ball valve back to the skimmer compartment still necessary? It seems like, if anything, I'll have to turn down the flow from my drain right??

[_E_]

What size is your return? It would have to be massive for one of them to flow 1200 gph.

[fender4string]

I'm confused...what do you mean what size is my return? The vinyl tubing I'm using is .75. The return pump is rated for 1200 gph but accounting for head loss it will only pump back 889 gph (according to the head loss calc here on RC). So my drain will be draining 1000-1200 gph and the return will only be pumping back 889 ish gph. Does that make more sense or did I miss what you're saying?

[_E_]

Sorry...lol...meant your drain.

[fender4string]

Haha ok that makes more sense. That's the figure that the aquarium maker I bought it from told me it would handle-They said from 1200-1000 gph. The drain itself is a durso standpipe connected to a 1" drain. If it helps, the dimensions on the overflow are 9"x3.5" ish based on my sloppy measurement.

[bdcord79]

I would plumb the drain line so that it is pointed up. Then have the first baffle after it raised off the bottom of the sump so the water flows under it not over it. Then you can have the next baffle so the water flows over it into the return chamber. Make sure and put the returm pump close to the bottom but not on the bottom so you don't suck up debris. Anything you can do to eliminate water "falling" and making bubbles the better off your display will look. The bubbles get sucked into the pump then chewed up and spit into the display tank. These are called micro-bubbles, and you don't want them.

I have been studying sumps because I need to build one myself and this is the best info I have come up with to make sure I do in my new sump.

Good Luck and post some pics after you get it done.

[fender4string]

Ok I see what you're talking about but unless I'm misunderstanding you, the water will fall in either design right? The only difference is in my design, the water falls over the first baffle. In your example, the water will still fall, just over the second baffle? Wouldn't your design also take up more space as you'd still need a bubble trap after the second baffle as opposed to a bubble trap after the first baffle like how I set mine up? Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to see if I understand correctly.

[_E_]

1" pipe will only flow about 600 gph at most, so that's why the number seemed off to me (you do only have one overflow right). In that case, you may need the valve to taper back the return flow. You can use one of these with vinyl tubing:
[/IMG]
Or you can use spaflex tubing glued inside regular slip fit connectors. Either way will work well and both options are flexible enough to quiet your pump.

[fender4string]

Oh, and I'll definitely post pics when I'm done . I've been so pumped to get this tank up and running and the sump and the plumbing are the last hurdles before it's good to go. So stay tuned for a pics thread in the next few weeks here bdcord79 and everyone else who's helped out who's interested .

[fender4string]

Hey _E_ could you repost the picture? It didn't show up for me. And yeah it's a single return so I guess we'll have to see what happens. They seemed like very knowledgeable and honest people so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

[_E_]

Let's try this again
[IMG][/IMG]