Lighting combo?

Robka · 11/26/2008, 09:26 AM

I currently am running 440W VHO lighting in my 110 show tank. I was thinking for adding 250w MH to the mix as I would like to turn my FOWLR tank into a Reef system. Would the combination of those two different lights be enough for this deep tank?

Thanks for your help,

ROBKA

AZDesertRat · 11/26/2008, 09:32 AM

I use 2x250w MH and 2x140w VHO actinics on my 100G system. The tank is SPS dominated and everything grows like weeds.

Robka · 11/26/2008, 09:56 AM

Thanks for the help AZDesertRat

How deep is your 100Gal? I was hoping with 440w of VHO that the one 250w MH would do. I guess I could add another one if it wasn't enough.

Thanks again,

Robka

AZDesertRat · 11/26/2008, 10:29 AM

My tank is 23" tall. High light corals thrive up higher as well as on the bottom. I have plenty of caves, shelfs and protected areas for low light corals near the bottom. I believe you tank is 48" wide? If so a single 250 will more than likely leave shadows on the sides. My tank is 5 feet long and I have 2 PFO parallel reflectors, each one is set in 3" from the outside edge and there is a 6" gap in the middle, coverage is good. Trying to stretch a single bulb over your distance would be tough. With the actinics you can add 10k MH like the XM which has a lot of Par and will reach to the bottom no problem.

Robka · 11/26/2008, 11:13 AM

Thanks again A.J. good info

I am going to get a light meter to see how the values are at the different levels of the tank (is there a website that lets you know what PAR readings are required for various corals or does that come with the meter?). I think for now I will center the 250w MH and take measurments. I am trying to stay away from a chiller at this point, which would be tough to do with the 2X250W MH. I was thinking of possibly putting the corals with higher lighting requirements in the center of the tank and then place the species with lower lighting needs off to the sides. I would hope this method would work?

Thanks,

Rob

AZDesertRat · 11/26/2008, 12:11 PM

My chiller has not run since April. My canopy is completely enclosed on all sides and top. I have a single Vantec Stealth 120mm fan in each end both blowing in with equal sized holes in the top of the canopy directly over the reflectors for heat to escape. The fans are powered by little variable voltage DC power supplies like found at Frys Electronics, Wal Mart or about anywhere. I run the fans at 12v in the summer, one stays on 24/7 and the other runs on the same timer as the lights. In winter I put them both on the timer and slow them down to 10.5 or even 9v as the temperatures dictate. Reduces evaporation a lot when the cooling is not needed as much.
By placing the exit holes on top I take advantage of convection as well as forced air, even when the fans are not running I can feel convection moving warmer air up and out.
My temp stays 79-81 year round. I have a back up clip on fan over the sump (Wal Mart $8) that is on a Ranco controller that does run often in the summer. On the other channel of the Ranco is my 1/4 HP chiller so if the temp rises 2 degrees it comes on as a final back up. Once I installed an auto topoff system and switched the fans to the lead the chiller never runs anymore. When I was topping off by hand the evaporation was as much as 6 gallons every other day so was a pain, now that its automated I don't worry about it!

Robka · 11/26/2008, 12:31 PM

Thanks again for the great info

I was planning on installing some fans in the canopy and you have given me some really good ideas. The location of my tank and limited stand space makes an auto topoff system out of the question, so it looks like I will be doing a little leg work there, but these tanks wouldn't be as fun without all the work

Thanks,

rob

11/26/2008, 09:26 AM	#1
Robka Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 452	Lighting combo? I currently am running 440W VHO lighting in my 110 show tank. I was thinking for adding 250w MH to the mix as I would like to turn my FOWLR tank into a Reef system. Would the combination of those two different lights be enough for this deep tank? Thanks for your help, ROBKA

11/26/2008, 09:32 AM	#2
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	I use 2x250w MH and 2x140w VHO actinics on my 100G system. The tank is SPS dominated and everything grows like weeds.

11/26/2008, 09:56 AM	#3
Robka Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 452	Thanks for the help AZDesertRat How deep is your 100Gal? I was hoping with 440w of VHO that the one 250w MH would do. I guess I could add another one if it wasn't enough. Thanks again, Robka

11/26/2008, 10:29 AM	#4
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	My tank is 23" tall. High light corals thrive up higher as well as on the bottom. I have plenty of caves, shelfs and protected areas for low light corals near the bottom. I believe you tank is 48" wide? If so a single 250 will more than likely leave shadows on the sides. My tank is 5 feet long and I have 2 PFO parallel reflectors, each one is set in 3" from the outside edge and there is a 6" gap in the middle, coverage is good. Trying to stretch a single bulb over your distance would be tough. With the actinics you can add 10k MH like the XM which has a lot of Par and will reach to the bottom no problem.

11/26/2008, 11:13 AM	#5
Robka Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 452	Thanks again A.J. good info I am going to get a light meter to see how the values are at the different levels of the tank (is there a website that lets you know what PAR readings are required for various corals or does that come with the meter?). I think for now I will center the 250w MH and take measurments. I am trying to stay away from a chiller at this point, which would be tough to do with the 2X250W MH. I was thinking of possibly putting the corals with higher lighting requirements in the center of the tank and then place the species with lower lighting needs off to the sides. I would hope this method would work? Thanks, Rob

11/26/2008, 12:11 PM	#6
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	My chiller has not run since April. My canopy is completely enclosed on all sides and top. I have a single Vantec Stealth 120mm fan in each end both blowing in with equal sized holes in the top of the canopy directly over the reflectors for heat to escape. The fans are powered by little variable voltage DC power supplies like found at Frys Electronics, Wal Mart or about anywhere. I run the fans at 12v in the summer, one stays on 24/7 and the other runs on the same timer as the lights. In winter I put them both on the timer and slow them down to 10.5 or even 9v as the temperatures dictate. Reduces evaporation a lot when the cooling is not needed as much. By placing the exit holes on top I take advantage of convection as well as forced air, even when the fans are not running I can feel convection moving warmer air up and out. My temp stays 79-81 year round. I have a back up clip on fan over the sump (Wal Mart $8) that is on a Ranco controller that does run often in the summer. On the other channel of the Ranco is my 1/4 HP chiller so if the temp rises 2 degrees it comes on as a final back up. Once I installed an auto topoff system and switched the fans to the lead the chiller never runs anymore. When I was topping off by hand the evaporation was as much as 6 gallons every other day so was a pain, now that its automated I don't worry about it!

11/26/2008, 12:31 PM	#7
Robka Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 452	Thanks again for the great info I was planning on installing some fans in the canopy and you have given me some really good ideas. The location of my tank and limited stand space makes an auto topoff system out of the question, so it looks like I will be doing a little leg work there, but these tanks wouldn't be as fun without all the work Thanks, rob