Ro or RO/Di

aduvall · 12/10/2008, 01:38 PM

I found a RO corallife 24gpd for sale for a good price . Do I really need a RO/DI?

I have a 14gal biocube
Thanks!
Angie

Guygettnby · 12/10/2008, 01:41 PM

i would get the RODI unit over just the RO unit anyday. but you gotta look at it like this. anything is better then nothing.

how much is the RO unit u are looking at?

reefworm · 12/10/2008, 02:50 PM

I would agree, but with the caveat that it's usually not a good idea to cut corners in this hobby. Go for the best/what you really need the first time, then you'll get the results and avoid having to upgrade later

Playa-1 · 12/10/2008, 06:42 PM

You should get the RO/DI unit. RO only does not filter out the Chloramine in the water. Many water treatment companies have switched or are switching to Chloramine as opposed to Chlorine. I would also suggest that you get a unit that is capable of producing more like 75 gallons per day.

All these filters are not created equal. You might want to use a float valve on a storage container and not have to babysit the water filter to manually turn it off. For this purpose you may want a unit that has a Auto Shutoff Valve built in to it. An inline TDS meter and water pressure gauge comes in real handy. A unit built solid so that you don't have constantly leaking and/or stripped threads or maybe a busted filter housing. A unit with a clear housing so you can see when your color changing resin changes colors. A unit with a quality RO membrane that is capable of bringing the TDS down to 0 and will last longer then a few months. Before the purchase is the time to do the research, not after you have made a bad purchase.

mutateddogbone · 12/10/2008, 06:51 PM

i wouldnt even bother with the coralife unit by itself. i had one and now im having a terrible algae and diatom problem because the membrane shot in less than 5 months. the only thing good about the coralife unit is the housings

aduvall · 12/11/2008, 11:27 AM

Thanks to all of you for your advice. I'm passing on the RO unit.

Everyones Hero · 12/11/2008, 01:08 PM

You could always go online & order a separate DI unit. I think they're about $35 from The Filter Guys. Just connects right to your RO.

I picked up the Reef Keeper Plus from them & got it today. My TDS went from 130 to 0.

12/10/2008, 01:38 PM	#1
aduvall Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Michigan Posts: 13	Ro or RO/Di I found a RO corallife 24gpd for sale for a good price . Do I really need a RO/DI? I have a 14gal biocube Thanks! Angie

12/10/2008, 02:50 PM	#3
reefworm Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Waxhaw, NC USA Posts: 2,139	I would agree, but with the caveat that it's usually not a good idea to cut corners in this hobby. Go for the best/what you really need the first time, then you'll get the results and avoid having to upgrade later __________________ "The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter." - Thomas Jefferson Current Tank Info: 29 gal. reef/assist with 75 gal. at the school

12/10/2008, 06:51 PM	#5
mutateddogbone Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 1,016	i wouldnt even bother with the coralife unit by itself. i had one and now im having a terrible algae and diatom problem because the membrane shot in less than 5 months. the only thing good about the coralife unit is the housings __________________ 2013 Oklahoma Marine Aquarium Society - President An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure Current Tank Info: 75g braceless SPS dominated w/ 50g Frag Tank

12/10/2008, 01:41 PM	#2
Guygettnby Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: FL Posts: 3,050	i would get the RODI unit over just the RO unit anyday. but you gotta look at it like this. anything is better then nothing. how much is the RO unit u are looking at?

12/10/2008, 06:42 PM	#4
Playa-1 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Laguna Niguel, CA Posts: 7,497	You should get the RO/DI unit. RO only does not filter out the Chloramine in the water. Many water treatment companies have switched or are switching to Chloramine as opposed to Chlorine. I would also suggest that you get a unit that is capable of producing more like 75 gallons per day. All these filters are not created equal. You might want to use a float valve on a storage container and not have to babysit the water filter to manually turn it off. For this purpose you may want a unit that has a Auto Shutoff Valve built in to it. An inline TDS meter and water pressure gauge comes in real handy. A unit built solid so that you don't have constantly leaking and/or stripped threads or maybe a busted filter housing. A unit with a clear housing so you can see when your color changing resin changes colors. A unit with a quality RO membrane that is capable of bringing the TDS down to 0 and will last longer then a few months. Before the purchase is the time to do the research, not after you have made a bad purchase.

12/11/2008, 11:27 AM	#6
aduvall Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Michigan Posts: 13	Thanks to all of you for your advice. I'm passing on the RO unit.

12/11/2008, 01:08 PM	#7
Everyones Hero Registered Member. Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Leonardtown, MD Posts: 1,154	You could always go online & order a separate DI unit. I think they're about $35 from The Filter Guys. Just connects right to your RO. I picked up the Reef Keeper Plus from them & got it today. My TDS went from 130 to 0.