Auto Top Off Help...

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 03:27 PM

I am trying to decide on an ATO for my new set up. I have a 75 Gallon Tank with a 33 gallon sump. I have decided that I will have a RO/DI reservoir under the stand. I found a great little odd shaped tank that is around 5 gallons and should be perfect.

I will be ordering a Reefkeeper Lite soon and will have the ATO run by the controller. My RODI unit will be in the basement with some Brute cans. I thought about running the RODI tubing right up to my sump but it seems a little risky. I am trying to make this as disaster proof as possible. For now I think I will be manually topping up the RODI reservoir under the tank. Seems like as long as this gets done around once a week I should be good. I still don't like the idea of carrying water up the stairs but this seems to be the consensus as far as flood and tank crashing prevention. Maybe I will hook something up where I could pump the water up to the reservoir manually when I need to. Any ideas there would be helpful also.

So, I was looking on Bulk Reef Supply and saw the Reef Fanatic Level Controller with 2 floats switches. Seems like a decent unit. Anyone had experience with this? I figure I would be using an Aqualifter for the pump.

I know there are better units out there but I am not looking to spend the $200 on the Tunze. Any other recomendations? Also, I am in Canada so the autotopoff.com route is not really an option.

Recommendations? Any other units?

Thanks

James77 · 07/19/2009, 03:38 PM

I use a LMIII remote pump module to pull my top off water from the basement. They cost $140 new, but you can find used ones for ~$100. You would need to splice the wire to a 12v transformer.

I use a dual float switch from Autotopoff to switch it on/off, but could just as easily use my RKE to do it.

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 03:57 PM

I thought about the Litermeter III but I don't like the idea of possibly flooding the sump and stand. May be an option though. So is your Litermeter located in stand near the sump?

Also, would it be smart to hook this up to be topping up a RODI reservoir under the stand and using another ATO control to pump into the sump? Or go straight into the sump with the Litermeter?

I could make it pretty flood proof if I had my rodi water going into a brute can in the basement. I am going to put a bulkhead in the main can I use. From there I could have a smaller reservoir in the basement that the Litermeter could pull out of. My ATO reservoir under the stand is only around 5 gallons. My concern would be flooding this if a float or two failed.

I have heard great things about the Litermeter III. So, I would not need to buy the $300 version? Just the Litermeter remote pump module?

Can you explain the wire splicing?

Thanks

I really do like the idea but

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 04:19 PM

I guess I could even just use this method manually. Have the Litermeter 3 remote pump manually pump it up from the basement whenever I want. It doesn't need to be automated. If I could turn the pump on and top up my RODI reservoir a couple of times a week it would work. As long as I am not carrying up buckets of water. I would have another ATO system to feed the sump.

Does the Litermeter 3 pump really slow? Would running a set up the way I describe make sense?

Sounds like most tanks around my size (100 gallons total) lose somewhere around 1 gallon per day. How long would it take for a Litermeter 3 to pull a gallon up from the basement?

Also, the L3 remote pump module is made to plug into the main L3. I can this as a normal pump by cutting and splicing the wire?

James77 · 07/19/2009, 04:32 PM

The LMIII would pump a gallon in about 20-30 minutes, although Im not sure the max on continuous running.

It won't flood your tank/stand anymore than any other pump controlled by float switches. Mine is in my stand, and has 2 floats that control it- 1 primary and another backup. I also have a 3rd float wired to my RKE that will shut the top off system off should the sump get too high.

To get the remote pump module to work off an outlet, i had to clip off the factory connection(like an earphone plug). This is the connection that attaches to the main LMIII unit. I then spliced it to an extra 12v DC transformer. Ive been running this for several months, off a 20 gallon top off reservoir, with zero problems.

Ive also owned the Tunze. It worked very well, but was very limited in the head pressure it could handle. I like having any large equipment/reservoirs in the basement.

insane · 07/19/2009, 04:35 PM

Use a Niveaumat Auto Top-off Pump by AquaMedic

It can pull your top off water up from a basement reservoir and can also be used inline with a Kalk Stirrer if you want to add one later for auto dosing of Kalk as your top off water. My sis has this set up and it works great. Don't hook it to the high pressure RO output. This top off runs about $140.00 and tops off your setup off a few drips at a time.

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 04:54 PM

Thanks Jim,

You are right about the fact that it won't flood anymore than any other pumps controlled by float switches.

I just figure with an RODI reservoir of 5 gallons or so, even if the entire reservoir was pumped dry that my sump could handle it. I guess I could set up the Litermeter to pull off of a reservoir in the basement that was only 10 gallons or so just in case. Mind you with a dual float switch set up things should be fine. I also like the idea of another high level float switch in the sump. If this float is triggered it will cut power to the L3?

Seems like a pretty good set up. So I should look at running this right to my sump and not the small RODI reservoir under the stand. The reservoir seems like a waste of money(would need another ATO sytem) and space. More room under the stand would be great.

I must admit, I don't like the idea of having to cut and splice the L3 cord. Hopefully, there is a good safe way to set this up. You mention running it to a 12v dc transformer. Is this just splicing a plug onto this rather than the L3 connection?

Is there anything else I may need for this configuration? Like check valves or something?

This has gotten much more complicated than expected. The worst part is that this is just for the RODI top off setup. Next will be figure something out for my water changes.

Thanks so much again

James77 · 07/19/2009, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727

I guess I could set up the Litermeter to pull off of a reservoir in the basement that was only 10 gallons or so just in case. I also like the idea of another high level float switch in the sump. If this float is triggered it will cut power to the L3?

Absolutely, its a great safeguard to have. I do 20 gallons because I always forget to refill the topoff.

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727

I must admit, I don't like the idea of having to cut and splice the L3 cord. Hopefully, there is a good safe way to set this up. You mention running it to a 12v dc transformer. Is this just splicing a plug onto this rather than the L3 connection?

Is there anything else I may need for this configuration? Like check valves or something?

This has gotten much more complicated than expected. The worst part is that this is just for the RODI top off setup. Next will be figure something out for my water changes.

I didn't really mind cutting mine, as I got a pretty good used deal on it. I'm sure you could get a female plug like the LMIII main has, and splice that plug to a 12v transformer.

The LMIII can pull water from 25 feet below easily, so no need for check valves.

Although pricey, the LMIII can do auto water changes. You would need an entire setup- 3 pumps for it to work. One pump would pump in, the 2nd pump would pump out, and the third for topoff. I was going to do an auto water change, but I like sucking out the detritus from my sump. Doesn't mean I do the water changes as often as I should-

.

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 06:14 PM

As far as water changes go. I will have to also pump this water up from the basement as I have no room for mixing station anywhere near the tank. I really don't want to get into getting the whole Litermeter set up. I think my water changes will consist of mixing in the basement and manually pumping up. Just need to figure out how to control that when the pump I would be using would be in the basement. It would be nice to be able to stand at that tank and turn the pump on and off when I hit the level I need.

Any ideas.

Back to the Litermeter 3 and cutting the cord. Could you please explain it again in great detail. (For someone who know nothing about electricity!!). I will cut the cord and splice what in? How does the transformer work? Is the L3 wired to the controller? How does it get plugged in?

I have never used a controller before so that is a whole new world also.

Thanks

James77 · 07/19/2009, 07:15 PM

The LM pumps are 12 volt DC. Then you need any extra transformer(ie cell phone charger,cordless phone charger- it will say on the adapter what voltage it is) or you can buy them for about 10-15 dollars.

If you can find female plug for the miniconnector(check radio shack) then just splice it to the transformer. Test the pump on it- if it does not work, switch the wires. Its 12v Direct Current, so its harmless to touch. The LM packages come with their own DC adapters, you just need to provide your own since the LM remote pumps are add-ons and do not come with a power source.

You would plug the transformer into the controller, and that would power the LM pump. Its really simple

.

As for your basement pump being controlled from upstairs- there are a couple options. With a wall switch, I would have a switched outlet. Outlet in basement, wall switch upstairs- switch it on to turn the outlet/pump on.

OR-If the RK lite is expandable enough, you could buy another PC4(or similar) and run the bus downstairs. You could control the pump from the RK upstairs. You could also power you top off off in the basement, one less pump in the stand.

insane · 07/19/2009, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727
As far as water changes go. I will have to also pump this water up from the basement as I have no room for mixing station anywhere near the tank. I really don't want to get into getting the whole Litermeter set up. I think my water changes will consist of mixing in the basement and manually pumping up. Just need to figure out how to control that when the pump I would be using would be in the basement. It would be nice to be able to stand at that tank and turn the pump on and off when I hit the level I need.

Any ideas.

Back to the Litermeter 3 and cutting the cord. Could you please explain it again in great detail. (For someone who know nothing about electricity!!). I will cut the cord and splice what in? How does the transformer work? Is the L3 wired to the controller? How does it get plugged in?

I have never used a controller before so that is a whole new world also.

Thanks

To remotely pump your water upstairs use an X-10 wireless remote control module and controller. Use a heavy duty module if using a high amperage pump. Some of the smaller lamp modules can dim lights so do not use one that dims, you will probably burn up your pump if you do. You can find the modules and controllers on EBay. Search for "X-10". If you have a computer programable Logitech Harrmony remote control for your TV, DTV, Home Theater, it can control the X-10 modules as well.

Plug your pump into the module and the module into a live outlet. You can then turn it on and off from elsewhere in the house. You have to use one X-10 receiver with the antennae on it per system. The wireless remote will control multiple wireless relay modules anywhere in your house with individual or group control. You can probably do it for around 40 or 50 bucks. You will also need a high head pump to lift the water as high as you need but probably don't need a high rate of flow so you can keep the cost down. Just make sure the pump can handle the height.

James77 · 07/19/2009, 07:21 PM

DC adapter:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812803002

James77 · 07/19/2009, 07:22 PM

Maybe something like this to plug the LM into so no need to cut its cord. You would splice these wires to a DC adapter,
**I don't know if this would fit or work**

http://www.earphonesolutions.com/9in23cmeaexc.html

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 08:23 PM

Thanks for all the info James. I must admit the cutting of the cord and transformer stuff sounds a little messy for me.

Thanks Insane for recommending the Aqua Medic Niveaumat Auto Top-off. This looks like a pretty good set up. The peristaltic pump can handle the head and would have no problem pulling the water up from the basement. I noticed you can also buy the SP 3000 pump separately. Here is what I would like to do. I would have the pump pull water from a 10 gallon tank I have which would be in the basement. I would like to have 2 float switches for this pump similar to watch Jim mentioned. The primary to engage the pump. Secondary which would kill power to the pump. Then a third high level float sensor which would also kill the pump in case the secondary float sensor failed. I would have m Reefkeeper control that.

So, might I be better off to buy the Aqua Medic SP 3000 dosing pump and then get some float switches on the side? Or would I be better off getting the whole top off system through Aqua Medic? One of the reasons I ask is because none of the places I order equipment seem to have the ATO set up. They all have the pump though. Perhaps would it be a good idea to buy Digital Aquatic float sensors if I will be using the Reefkeeper Lite?

Also, Jim you had mentioned getting an extra PC 4 for the ReefKeeper which I am going to do. Would I just have to run an extension cord to connect the PC 4 in the basement up to the Reefkeeper? I like the idea of having one less pump in the stand when you mention running the top off from downstairs. Never considered this as I pictured the pump being close to the float sensors. If I was to have the pump in the basement would there be any issues as far as pushing the water up versus pulling it with the pump near the tank?

I will leave it there for now. Feels like I have a million more questions.

Thanks for your patience.

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 08:32 PM

Actually, if I choose to have my ATO pump in the basement the Aqua Medic set up wouldn't work as the float sensor it comes with would need to the pump.

I really like the idea of having my ATO pump and running it from the basement. Also the ability to control another pump from upstairs near the tank which would provide my salted water for water changes would be great. I just dont want to waste 2 plugs of the PC 4 that would be in the basement. Perhaps there is something else I could be using them for down there.

James77 · 07/19/2009, 08:42 PM

That LM splice is not nearly as difficult as you are picturing. Just use any 12volt adapter you have around, I used an old cordless phone adapter. If you cannot find one, they sell they at any electronics store-

Just cover the splice with small wire nuts. It *may* not work the frist time- just switch the wires, as it is Direct Current. There is no real safety hazard either- its only 12 vlts.

James77 · 07/19/2009, 08:44 PM

As for the PC4 in the basement, just run a bus cable from any other module to the extra one in the basement, and the RK will recognize it.

Check the auction site and Reefcentrals used equipment for a remote LM pump, you could probably find one for 90-100, and you won't mind snipping the cord as much.

Reefer2727 · 07/19/2009, 08:59 PM

Hard to get at the used equipment being that I am in Canada. The shipping is always an issue.

I have to figure out what a bus cable is. lol. I am brutal. Thanks for the pic of your LM cut job. It does look pretty simple. Not sure what to do. I kind of like the Aqua Medic peristaltic pump. Might be a little cheaper than the LM.

Lets say I go with the SP 3000 Aqua medic. Just the pump. How do I have the float sensors control it? How are they all connected?

Reefer2727 · 07/20/2009, 07:59 PM

Could someone please explain how the float sensors are physically connected to both the pump and the Reefkeeper.

Thanks

divewsharks · 07/20/2009, 10:59 PM

http://www.melevsreef.com/plumbing/auto_topoff.html

200mfromocean · 07/21/2009, 10:12 AM

I have been happy with the $50 ATO topoff unit from autotopoff.com. Heard not such good things about the Tunze.

As a precaution:
Just be sure your ATO resevoir will not overflow the sump area. In other words if you can put 7 gallons into your sump without it overflowing. You should have less than 7 gallons in your ato resevoir. That way you will not have an overflow and crash your tank with too much rodi water.

Reefer2727 · 07/21/2009, 12:29 PM

Thanks for the advice. I would like to feed my sump from a 10 gallon tank which will sit in the basement under the tank. I will have around 15 gallons or room in my sump so that should be good.

I am just having a hard time deciding how I am going to pump the water up to the tank. Sounds like a peristaltic pump is what I need. Or at least some sort of dosing pump.

I am just totally confused as to how the float sensors, the pump and the controller will all interact. Especially since my reservoir will be in the basement. If I leave the pump for my ATO under my stand I guess it would just pull it up from the basement.

Do the float sensors get wired directly to the controller (Reefkeeper? Or is there splicing involved? Also, how would this work if I had the pump and the PC 4 plug for the Reefkeeper in the basement?

Reefer2727 · 07/21/2009, 12:29 PM

I should also note that autotopoff.com isn't a great option because I am located in Canada and the shipping can be a pain.

James77 · 07/21/2009, 01:42 PM

You are using a Reefkeeper Lite, correct?

The float switches would attach to the SL1 module(I assume the RK Lite has one). You would tell the controller that when the switch is activated(small short)to turn the topoff pump off. Put the second float as an alarm- if it is activated, turn off the outlet and send a warning if you have that option.

You could do another PC4 in the basement, just run a bus cable(the wire that looks like a fat phone jack) from any other module to it. You could also control the water change pump then using the same PC4.

HTH.

insane · 07/21/2009, 01:56 PM

Reefer2727,
I just shipped you a PM from the USA. You should get it in 4 to 6 weeks.

07/19/2009, 03:27 PM	#1
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Auto Top Off Help... I am trying to decide on an ATO for my new set up. I have a 75 Gallon Tank with a 33 gallon sump. I have decided that I will have a RO/DI reservoir under the stand. I found a great little odd shaped tank that is around 5 gallons and should be perfect. I will be ordering a Reefkeeper Lite soon and will have the ATO run by the controller. My RODI unit will be in the basement with some Brute cans. I thought about running the RODI tubing right up to my sump but it seems a little risky. I am trying to make this as disaster proof as possible. For now I think I will be manually topping up the RODI reservoir under the tank. Seems like as long as this gets done around once a week I should be good. I still don't like the idea of carrying water up the stairs but this seems to be the consensus as far as flood and tank crashing prevention. Maybe I will hook something up where I could pump the water up to the reservoir manually when I need to. Any ideas there would be helpful also. So, I was looking on Bulk Reef Supply and saw the Reef Fanatic Level Controller with 2 floats switches. Seems like a decent unit. Anyone had experience with this? I figure I would be using an Aqualifter for the pump. I know there are better units out there but I am not looking to spend the $200 on the Tunze. Any other recomendations? Also, I am in Canada so the autotopoff.com route is not really an option. Recommendations? Any other units? Thanks

07/19/2009, 03:38 PM	#2
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	I use a LMIII remote pump module to pull my top off water from the basement. They cost $140 new, but you can find used ones for ~$100. You would need to splice the wire to a 12v transformer. I use a dual float switch from Autotopoff to switch it on/off, but could just as easily use my RKE to do it. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 04:32 PM	#5
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	The LMIII would pump a gallon in about 20-30 minutes, although Im not sure the max on continuous running. It won't flood your tank/stand anymore than any other pump controlled by float switches. Mine is in my stand, and has 2 floats that control it- 1 primary and another backup. I also have a 3rd float wired to my RKE that will shut the top off system off should the sump get too high. To get the remote pump module to work off an outlet, i had to clip off the factory connection(like an earphone plug). This is the connection that attaches to the main LMIII unit. I then spliced it to an extra 12v DC transformer. Ive been running this for several months, off a 20 gallon top off reservoir, with zero problems. Ive also owned the Tunze. It worked very well, but was very limited in the head pressure it could handle. I like having any large equipment/reservoirs in the basement. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 07:15 PM	#10
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	The LM pumps are 12 volt DC. Then you need any extra transformer(ie cell phone charger,cordless phone charger- it will say on the adapter what voltage it is) or you can buy them for about 10-15 dollars. If you can find female plug for the miniconnector(check radio shack) then just splice it to the transformer. Test the pump on it- if it does not work, switch the wires. Its 12v Direct Current, so its harmless to touch. The LM packages come with their own DC adapters, you just need to provide your own since the LM remote pumps are add-ons and do not come with a power source. You would plug the transformer into the controller, and that would power the LM pump. Its really simple . As for your basement pump being controlled from upstairs- there are a couple options. With a wall switch, I would have a switched outlet. Outlet in basement, wall switch upstairs- switch it on to turn the outlet/pump on. OR-If the RK lite is expandable enough, you could buy another PC4(or similar) and run the bus downstairs. You could control the pump from the RK upstairs. You could also power you top off off in the basement, one less pump in the stand. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 07:21 PM	#12
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	DC adapter: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812803002 __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 03:57 PM	#3
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	I thought about the Litermeter III but I don't like the idea of possibly flooding the sump and stand. May be an option though. So is your Litermeter located in stand near the sump? Also, would it be smart to hook this up to be topping up a RODI reservoir under the stand and using another ATO control to pump into the sump? Or go straight into the sump with the Litermeter? I could make it pretty flood proof if I had my rodi water going into a brute can in the basement. I am going to put a bulkhead in the main can I use. From there I could have a smaller reservoir in the basement that the Litermeter could pull out of. My ATO reservoir under the stand is only around 5 gallons. My concern would be flooding this if a float or two failed. I have heard great things about the Litermeter III. So, I would not need to buy the $300 version? Just the Litermeter remote pump module? Can you explain the wire splicing? Thanks I really do like the idea but

07/19/2009, 04:19 PM	#4
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	I guess I could even just use this method manually. Have the Litermeter 3 remote pump manually pump it up from the basement whenever I want. It doesn't need to be automated. If I could turn the pump on and top up my RODI reservoir a couple of times a week it would work. As long as I am not carrying up buckets of water. I would have another ATO system to feed the sump. Does the Litermeter 3 pump really slow? Would running a set up the way I describe make sense? Sounds like most tanks around my size (100 gallons total) lose somewhere around 1 gallon per day. How long would it take for a Litermeter 3 to pull a gallon up from the basement? Also, the L3 remote pump module is made to plug into the main L3. I can this as a normal pump by cutting and splicing the wire?

07/19/2009, 04:35 PM	#6
insane Moved On Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: under your bed Posts: 771 Blog Entries: 7	Use a Niveaumat Auto Top-off Pump by AquaMedic It can pull your top off water up from a basement reservoir and can also be used inline with a Kalk Stirrer if you want to add one later for auto dosing of Kalk as your top off water. My sis has this set up and it works great. Don't hook it to the high pressure RO output. This top off runs about $140.00 and tops off your setup off a few drips at a time.

07/19/2009, 04:54 PM	#7
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Thanks Jim, You are right about the fact that it won't flood anymore than any other pumps controlled by float switches. I just figure with an RODI reservoir of 5 gallons or so, even if the entire reservoir was pumped dry that my sump could handle it. I guess I could set up the Litermeter to pull off of a reservoir in the basement that was only 10 gallons or so just in case. Mind you with a dual float switch set up things should be fine. I also like the idea of another high level float switch in the sump. If this float is triggered it will cut power to the L3? Seems like a pretty good set up. So I should look at running this right to my sump and not the small RODI reservoir under the stand. The reservoir seems like a waste of money(would need another ATO sytem) and space. More room under the stand would be great. I must admit, I don't like the idea of having to cut and splice the L3 cord. Hopefully, there is a good safe way to set this up. You mention running it to a 12v dc transformer. Is this just splicing a plug onto this rather than the L3 connection? Is there anything else I may need for this configuration? Like check valves or something? This has gotten much more complicated than expected. The worst part is that this is just for the RODI top off setup. Next will be figure something out for my water changes. Thanks so much again

07/19/2009, 06:14 PM	#9
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	As far as water changes go. I will have to also pump this water up from the basement as I have no room for mixing station anywhere near the tank. I really don't want to get into getting the whole Litermeter set up. I think my water changes will consist of mixing in the basement and manually pumping up. Just need to figure out how to control that when the pump I would be using would be in the basement. It would be nice to be able to stand at that tank and turn the pump on and off when I hit the level I need. Any ideas. Back to the Litermeter 3 and cutting the cord. Could you please explain it again in great detail. (For someone who know nothing about electricity!!). I will cut the cord and splice what in? How does the transformer work? Is the L3 wired to the controller? How does it get plugged in? I have never used a controller before so that is a whole new world also. Thanks

07/19/2009, 07:22 PM	#13
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	Maybe something like this to plug the LM into so no need to cut its cord. You would splice these wires to a DC adapter, I don't know if this would fit or work http://www.earphonesolutions.com/9in23cmeaexc.html __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 08:23 PM	#14
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Thanks for all the info James. I must admit the cutting of the cord and transformer stuff sounds a little messy for me. Thanks Insane for recommending the Aqua Medic Niveaumat Auto Top-off. This looks like a pretty good set up. The peristaltic pump can handle the head and would have no problem pulling the water up from the basement. I noticed you can also buy the SP 3000 pump separately. Here is what I would like to do. I would have the pump pull water from a 10 gallon tank I have which would be in the basement. I would like to have 2 float switches for this pump similar to watch Jim mentioned. The primary to engage the pump. Secondary which would kill power to the pump. Then a third high level float sensor which would also kill the pump in case the secondary float sensor failed. I would have m Reefkeeper control that. So, might I be better off to buy the Aqua Medic SP 3000 dosing pump and then get some float switches on the side? Or would I be better off getting the whole top off system through Aqua Medic? One of the reasons I ask is because none of the places I order equipment seem to have the ATO set up. They all have the pump though. Perhaps would it be a good idea to buy Digital Aquatic float sensors if I will be using the Reefkeeper Lite? Also, Jim you had mentioned getting an extra PC 4 for the ReefKeeper which I am going to do. Would I just have to run an extension cord to connect the PC 4 in the basement up to the Reefkeeper? I like the idea of having one less pump in the stand when you mention running the top off from downstairs. Never considered this as I pictured the pump being close to the float sensors. If I was to have the pump in the basement would there be any issues as far as pushing the water up versus pulling it with the pump near the tank? I will leave it there for now. Feels like I have a million more questions. Thanks for your patience.

07/19/2009, 08:32 PM	#15
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Actually, if I choose to have my ATO pump in the basement the Aqua Medic set up wouldn't work as the float sensor it comes with would need to the pump. I really like the idea of having my ATO pump and running it from the basement. Also the ability to control another pump from upstairs near the tank which would provide my salted water for water changes would be great. I just dont want to waste 2 plugs of the PC 4 that would be in the basement. Perhaps there is something else I could be using them for down there.

07/19/2009, 08:42 PM	#16
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	That LM splice is not nearly as difficult as you are picturing. Just use any 12volt adapter you have around, I used an old cordless phone adapter. If you cannot find one, they sell they at any electronics store- Just cover the splice with small wire nuts. It may not work the frist time- just switch the wires, as it is Direct Current. There is no real safety hazard either- its only 12 vlts. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 08:44 PM	#17
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	As for the PC4 in the basement, just run a bus cable from any other module to the extra one in the basement, and the RK will recognize it. Check the auction site and Reefcentrals used equipment for a remote LM pump, you could probably find one for 90-100, and you won't mind snipping the cord as much. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/19/2009, 08:59 PM	#18
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Hard to get at the used equipment being that I am in Canada. The shipping is always an issue. I have to figure out what a bus cable is. lol. I am brutal. Thanks for the pic of your LM cut job. It does look pretty simple. Not sure what to do. I kind of like the Aqua Medic peristaltic pump. Might be a little cheaper than the LM. Lets say I go with the SP 3000 Aqua medic. Just the pump. How do I have the float sensors control it? How are they all connected?

07/20/2009, 07:59 PM	#19
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Could someone please explain how the float sensors are physically connected to both the pump and the Reefkeeper. Thanks

07/20/2009, 10:59 PM	#20
divewsharks Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,905	http://www.melevsreef.com/plumbing/auto_topoff.html

07/21/2009, 10:12 AM	#21
200mfromocean Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Carrollton, TX Posts: 355	I have been happy with the $50 ATO topoff unit from autotopoff.com. Heard not such good things about the Tunze. As a precaution: Just be sure your ATO resevoir will not overflow the sump area. In other words if you can put 7 gallons into your sump without it overflowing. You should have less than 7 gallons in your ato resevoir. That way you will not have an overflow and crash your tank with too much rodi water. __________________ 120 G in wall mixed reef, 35 G 4' long prop, 35G sump/fuge, 19G RODI resevoir. Sink & few gadgets. Current Tank Info: 120G Mixed reef, started 10/15/2009

07/21/2009, 12:29 PM	#22
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Thanks for the advice. I would like to feed my sump from a 10 gallon tank which will sit in the basement under the tank. I will have around 15 gallons or room in my sump so that should be good. I am just having a hard time deciding how I am going to pump the water up to the tank. Sounds like a peristaltic pump is what I need. Or at least some sort of dosing pump. I am just totally confused as to how the float sensors, the pump and the controller will all interact. Especially since my reservoir will be in the basement. If I leave the pump for my ATO under my stand I guess it would just pull it up from the basement. Do the float sensors get wired directly to the controller (Reefkeeper? Or is there splicing involved? Also, how would this work if I had the pump and the PC 4 plug for the Reefkeeper in the basement?

07/21/2009, 01:42 PM	#24
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	You are using a Reefkeeper Lite, correct? The float switches would attach to the SL1 module(I assume the RK Lite has one). You would tell the controller that when the switch is activated(small short)to turn the topoff pump off. Put the second float as an alarm- if it is activated, turn off the outlet and send a warning if you have that option. You could do another PC4 in the basement, just run a bus cable(the wire that looks like a fat phone jack) from any other module to it. You could also control the water change pump then using the same PC4. HTH. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/21/2009, 01:56 PM	#25
insane Moved On Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: under your bed Posts: 771 Blog Entries: 7	Reefer2727, I just shipped you a PM from the USA. You should get it in 4 to 6 weeks.