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Unread 07/26/2009, 08:49 PM   #1
patrick76
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High NO3

I have a 29 gallons tank that has been set up for about 7 months now. My NO3 is high around 40 and i can't figure it out. Equipment i have

29 Gallon
Fluval 205 Canister Filter
Power Head
Heater for 40 gallon tank
130 Watt current usa light
10 Pounds of live rock and 26 pounds of base rock.

I don't know why my nitrates are high i don't feed my fish but every other day. I use ro water 100%. Please help he figure this out.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 08:51 PM   #2
ClownBoy
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Have you tested your top off water?


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Unread 07/26/2009, 08:52 PM   #3
patrick76
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Nope will try that in a few.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 09:53 PM   #4
patrick76
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Top off water is 0.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:19 PM   #5
SC Trojan
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Im not familiar with the fluval 205 canister filter but with all mechanical filtration such as filter pads, filter socks and what have you, you really need to be on top such filtration. If you leave your filter pads collecting all that waste for too long it will break down and eventually release nitrates and phosphates back into your water. If your not running any type of mechanical filtration in your canister then the only thing i can think of is your tank could use a little more flow, more water changes and a protein skimmer if your not already running one. If you are running filter pads in your canister then you need to clean them out or change them out every 3-4 days. Try more flow, cleaning out filter pads more often , gac, more water changes and protein skimming and you should see a dramatic drop in your nutrient levels. Give these a try and youll be suprised.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:21 PM   #6
patrick76
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K i will try this out and see if it helps i clean the canister about ever week. Should i just take the filters out or some of them? There is 2 rows of two in the canister.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:41 PM   #7
sedor
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Quote:
Originally posted by SC Trojan
Im not familiar with the fluval 205 canister filter but with all mechanical filtration such as filter pads, filter socks and what have you, you really need to be on top such filtration. If you leave your filter pads collecting all that waste for too long it will break down and eventually release nitrates and phosphates back into your water. If your not running any type of mechanical filtration in your canister then the only thing i can think of is your tank could use a little more flow, more water changes and a protein skimmer if your not already running one. If you are running filter pads in your canister then you need to clean them out or change them out every 3-4 days. Try more flow, cleaning out filter pads more often , gac, more water changes and protein skimming and you should see a dramatic drop in your nutrient levels. Give these a try and youll be suprised.
+1
If it were me i'd remove the canister filter all together, it does more harm than good IMO. You can also use it for a couple days a month to run carbon and "polish your water."


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:42 PM   #8
patrick76
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I know but i can't get a skimmer till next week.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:47 PM   #9
Toddrtrex
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What all do you have in the tank fish wise?
How often and how large are your water changes?


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:48 PM   #10
patrick76
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Pair of clowns and purple firefish and 2 snails.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:48 PM   #11
SC Trojan
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Once a week is not too bad but every three to four days at the most would be a lot better. If you dont have the time or effort to want to be doing this then a lot of people tend to remove the pads and just use carbon or other type of filtration media in their filters. But i like running them because to me using liter pads and socks really seem to polish up my water column. Some people swear by them others seem to curse them. If you have the time to maintain them the i would run them ,and do, so its up tou you. I personally have a emperor 400 that i use just for carbon( i dont have a sump) and what i do is fill up each cartridge with gac and gfo then wrap each one with a 100 micron filter sock. every 3 days i pull out the cartridges and swap the socks for clean ones. I clean mine using a liitle bleach and water. Been doing this for a couple of years and my predominatly sps tank never has looked better. Its just how much time and effort you want to or can afford.


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Unread 07/26/2009, 10:50 PM   #12
patrick76
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gac and gfo?


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Unread 07/27/2009, 09:42 PM   #13
patrick76
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My green star polyps have not opened in the past two days could this have something to do with nitrates? Also my leather polyps have not extended in 2 days also. Mushrooms ,Zoanthids & ricordia are doing fine though.


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Unread 07/27/2009, 09:50 PM   #14
sedor
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Quote:
Originally posted by patrick76
My green star polyps have not opened in the past two days could this have something to do with nitrates? Also my leather polyps have not extended in 2 days also. Mushrooms ,Zoanthids & ricordia are doing fine though.
Could very well be due to nitrates. You really need to start working on getting those down before you start losing things. If it were me, i'd start with a fairly large WC. Maybe around 30G if at all possible. Otherwise clean that canister filter out real good and run some carbon in it to try and help get some of that stuff out of the water column.


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Unread 07/27/2009, 09:55 PM   #15
KarlBob
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GAC - Granular Activated Charcoal (or Carbon) - the pores in it collect lots of floating stuff from the water.
GFO - Granular Ferric Oxide - a chemical that binds phosphate.


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Unread 07/27/2009, 09:58 PM   #16
badwrasse
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I would just do a big water change and remove pads they are traps for wast and nitrates you should be ok till you get your skimmer but when you get it do another water change


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Unread 07/27/2009, 09:59 PM   #17
morphiii
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Get rid of the canister filter, they are nitrate factory. You really need to change mechanical filter every other day the least. All that crap that accumulates will break down and turn into nitrate in your canister filter.

Changing water won't help if your filter is dirty. It will continue to create nitrate.

Get more live rock. Get a big skimmer and get rid of the canister filter.

Get a denitrator, coil or sulfur.


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Unread 07/27/2009, 10:04 PM   #18
patrick76
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Get a denitrator, coil or sulfur.???


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Unread 07/27/2009, 10:05 PM   #19
KarlBob
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The denitrator is the only "fringe" piece of advice in morphiii's post. The rest of the suggestions are pretty much ReefCentral Conventional Wisdom.

A denitrator is a piece of equipment that's supposed to remove nitrate. Coil and sulfur are the two major types. Some people swear by denitrators, but others don't trust them. Personally, I don't know enough about them to call them good or bad.


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Unread 07/27/2009, 10:05 PM   #20
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Before I went with my sump, I had a lifeguard canister filter, and I could not get my nitrates below 40. I used carbon in the filter and changed the filter once a month while doing water changes bi-monthly. Like all the previous people have said a lot gets trapped in those things and causes the nitrates to build up. Now that I have my sump with a refugium and caulerpa algae, my nitrates are around 10 and it has made things much easier, much lss of a restriction on the types of things I can put in the tank. I have heard others remove the filter media and put live rock in their canister filters. This could be an option if you want to continue its use.


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Unread 07/27/2009, 10:08 PM   #21
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I also dabbled using the denitrification stuff in the filter instead of the activated carbon, and along with the carbon. It made no difference in my nitrate levels


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Unread 07/28/2009, 08:10 AM   #22
morphiii
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Quote:
Originally posted by patrick76
Get a denitrator, coil or sulfur.???
Once you got the NO3 to a manageable levels, 10 to 15, get a denitrator. Google it.

The basic idea is to setup a different area to culture bacteria that would convert nitrate to Nitrogen gas to get the level below 10ppm.


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Unread 07/28/2009, 08:25 AM   #23
badwrasse
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IMO he needs a sump before a denitrater . just having a sump with no media pads will help. I would not say a denitrater is something he needs


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