After venting chiller to outside, chiller is not chilling

seldin · 08/17/2009, 06:46 AM

I have a 55 gallon reef tank with a sump and chiller in stand below. During summer months, I would leave the stand underneath with the doors open. This chiller is a 1/3 hp, and even though it is very powerful, that was originally recommended to me, because my office A/C is not on when I am not in the office. So if it gets to 90 degrees, etc., my chiller has worked wonderful. Have not had a problem with chiller in 3 years.

Well, I now have had a contractor drill access holes from the back wall of the display tank that butts into my closet. I had a contractor, relocate my chiller into the closet and vent it outside. I even had him put in a 4 inch fan to help the flow of the new dryer type vent to the outside.

Now, since this is really is now an equipment room, what I did was close this closet and figure that the hot air would vent to the outside. I know that the inline duct fan, is set to go on whenever my chiller is on, because I have a splitter for my controller.

Maybe I am missing something. When the chiller was below my display tank, it blew the exhaust into the room and heated the room but chilled the tank fine. Now, I guess is that since I put the chiller in a large closet that vented the out take, that maybe the intake is the problem because the closet is closed. So I had the closet doors left open so that it is like mimicking the old setup where the chiller was now taking the air from the inside of the office but open and still venting to the outside. Since that is not working well, I am not concluding that the venting is not working. Does this make sense. I have the sump return, go to the chiller and then back to the display tank. The flow for this is excellent and I can tell this process is working fine.

My next step is to purchase a fan, and have that blow directly into the intake of the chiller to see if that improves flow. For now, I am thinking in the short run, that I may have to disconnect the vent to the outside and see if the efficiency improves, then I can tell if the venting process is working enough.

So my next question, is maybe having the chiller in the closet is not a good idea, because the closet will heat up with the doors closed. Then, my question, is how do people have an equipment room, since it will heat up from the chiller.

Anyway, your help in making my chiller efficient will be appreciated.

Thank you,

BrokeColoReefer · 08/17/2009, 10:15 AM

A few things come to mind, are the line runs from the chiller to long? if they are, the chiller will have to work harder to get the water temp down, you can insulate the return line to help. Also, if the closet is super tight, you could be creating enough negative pressure so the chiller cant breath. when you open the door to the closet does it help? and last, im not sure what the refrigerant life span is, but is it possible that your out of coolant?

mukymuk · 08/17/2009, 10:29 AM

The chiller is apparently not getting the air movement you think it is--or else the air moving across the coils is too warm.

If you are pushing air out of the building, outside air has to be coming in from somewhere to replace the evacuated air. If there's no way for that to happen, perhaps because the room is relatively air-tight (like a closet would be), then you aren't really moving air out--even with fans running.

Equipment rooms generally have a register and return vent which allows them to be climate controlled even with the door shut.

Best bet is to have an A/C contractor have a look and tell you what you need to do to achieve the indoor temperature you want. Put your chiller anywhere you want--he'll be able to estimate the heat load and adjust your system accordingly.

Bottom line is the chiller needs to be in a location that doesn't exceed a certain temperature or else it will not be able to function the way you need it to. Venting it outside is pointless unless you add another vent to bring outside air in *and* that air is cooler than the indoor temperature.

Macimage · 08/17/2009, 04:35 PM

My chiller is in a shed outside that measures maybe 4' x 4' or so. Our outdoor temps can get as high as 110 and the chiller exhaust goes into the shed. The shed gets really, really hot. If I am home, I at least prop the door open.

However, my long winded point is that even with all this heat in the shed, the chiller works fine to cool my tank.

Perhaps moving your chiller caused a problem with it?

Joyce

seldin · 08/18/2009, 07:51 AM

Here is an update.

When air tight closet doors closed, chiller not working well.

So I bought a fan and it now blows directly into intake of chiller. Air tight closet doors open, chiller working fine.

So duct fan, turns on, but maybe not pulling enough air outside.
So now testing, if able to close closet doors. If not, I will have to vent intake of chiller ( because I do not want to keep closet doors open.

Will it be adequate to just cut a hole in closet the size of a 1 foot by one foot vent to main room.

Or is it better to actually duct in-take of chiller to vent in main room. Can I vent in-take to outside of house?

Thank you,

- Larry

seldin · 08/19/2009, 11:11 AM

Can you guys please provide feedback.

If I vent the intake by making a vent from my office through the closet, it seems like I will try to get the closet to be closer to room temperature, which should be fine, because the original setup when the chiller was in my office was powerful enough to work.

The other approach would be to vent the chiller intake to the outside, where the benefit would be no additional noise in my office. However, I would need to duct this, so air is only venting out when chiller is on and not let say in winter when not needed.

Thank you,

Macimage · 08/19/2009, 03:45 PM

Unfortunately, unless someone has done the exact same thing with the exact same circumstances (ie, closet size, room size, airflow, temperature, etc.), there is no correct answer.

The only way to know what will work is via experimentation.

Good luck!
Joyce

luther1200 · 08/19/2009, 04:29 PM

I would think a vent into the other room would work. But that is really just a guess. But if it worked before I don't see why it wouldn't work, unless the vent was to small.

ThaNgBOm321 · 08/19/2009, 05:08 PM

mukymuk is on the right tract. the condenser (the coil that cools down the superheated freon aka outside unit) is not getting enough air across it's fins to cool down the freon inside. what you are doing with the chiller inside the sealed closet is the similar to having fans in the canopy hood with MH. the minor difference is that the evaporation of water has a cooling effect. a sealed of closet with chiller on the other hand only has a heat source and no cooling system. A 'cooling' system dose not actually 'make' things cold to say, it only take the heat away from things making it colder. may have lost some of u there.

u know what lets get back to this later "if u want". your chiller in your closet is not receiving enough air across it's condenser to cool off the freon inside. although you have a exhaust fan venting air outside (hoping that the exhaust is moving out enough air) the system is still is still 'closed' chamber. your chiller is just running the 'same' heated air across it's fins making it work ineffectively. your must let air in to be able to get air out. in your case, if you got your contractor to put in a vent letting in air from outside in then your problem should be solved. there may be other factors at play but from what i am reading this seems to be it. maybe call around (A/C guys) and see if this will solve the problem. IMO this is what they would recommend too.

ThaNgBOm321 · 08/19/2009, 05:27 PM

hum.. i was going to explain this but this is much better/ easier to understand

1. The compressor compresses cool Freon gas, causing it to become hot, high-pressure Freon gas (red in the diagram above).
2. This hot gas runs through a set of coils so it can dissipate its heat, and it condenses into a liquid.
3. The Freon liquid runs through an expansion valve, and in the process it evaporates to become cold, low-pressure Freon gas (light blue in the diagram above).
4. This cold gas runs through a set of coils that allow the gas to absorb heat and cool down the air inside the building.

chilwil84 · 08/19/2009, 08:48 PM

when we put gas appliances in small room we put return air grills in for makeup air to allow for proper combustion. you could use a 12X12 cut into the door or a wall with the intake directed toward it.

mukymuk · 08/20/2009, 01:16 AM

Between ThaNgBom321 and myself, you have all the theory you need. I'm sorry we can't give you a step-by-step answer, but that's because the real answer is: "it depends". And honestly, it depends on a lot of stuff.

My original advice is to get an A/C guy in there. I stand by that. He'll have the knowledge and the tools to assess and devise a solution specific to your situation.

That said, understand that you can not vent the exhaust outside unless you also vent the intake outside. Like water and electricity, there has to be a complete circuit (a loop basically) or nothing moves no mater what he size of the fan, pump, or battery is.

seldin · 08/20/2009, 06:18 AM

..My original advice is to get an A/C guy in there....

Guys,

I have contacted 2 different A/C guys. Basically, these type of chillers are not the standard stuff that they work on. That's why I figured you guys at RC can help. I have received a lot more knowledge from you guys and I thank you.

...That said, understand that you can not vent the exhaust outside unless you also vent the intake outside...

This part I am not sure about. I have already vented the out-take of the chiller to the outside.

1) So since I did that, "do I MUST" vent the intake of the chiller to the outside.

I was thinking of trying the idea of cutting a hole and make a vent (without duct) facing the intake of the chiller.

As we discussed, when the closet doors are open, the chiller works much better. Just hoping that I don't have to cut a huge hole to get the effect I need.

So here is what I think my current options to do next are:

I would like to vent the closet with a 1 foot opening to the office near the intake of the chiller.

2) Would I get better venting by making it a duct to intake of the chiller?

3) What effect would it have to vent the intake to the outside with a duct?

4) Does anybody know of a vent with a built in fan that I can turn on and off with a plug, so I can connect that to my controller to turn on when chiller is on.

Thank you,

- Larry

ThaNgBOm321 · 08/20/2009, 10:35 AM

...That said, understand that you can not vent the exhaust outside unless you also vent the intake outside...

this has to do with pressure.. if all you have is a 'source' pumping/pulling air out, you create negative pressure. you dont get any air exchange with this. As things are, air exchange is the source of your problem. try closing your mouth and inhale some air. you cheeks will begin to cave inward into your mouth. at that is what your closet is now. no air in = no air out (well very little is getting displaced, and any that is displace is the 'same' heated air). now if you slowly crack your lips open air will rush in trying to restore the pressure from inside the mouth to the same pressure as outside the mouth. This is what I/we are trying to tell you to do to fix your problem. The Freon inside the condenser coils are trying to rid of this heat so it can go back to it's 'natural' temp. in regular house AC units, the condenser is outside and is air cooled via a fan circulating outdoor air across it's fins. so in theory, cooling your chiller with outdoor air will work but not as efficient as indoor air (obvious here, it's better to cool something hot with cool air than warm outside air).

in reality, the bigger the opening the better (it will allow more 'new' air in). This dose not mean we need to but the whole closet down. i suggest going to Lowes or HD and taking a stroll in the HVAC (Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning) isle and check out the registers or whatnots they have. im thinking a 12x5 inch register/difusser size will do nice. while your there.. looking around for a powered vent of some kind.. maybe bathroom fart fan?

HTH

YzGYz

Rockfish · 08/20/2009, 10:40 AM

How much CFM does the exhaust flow? The 4" duct vented outside, is it rated to handle the CFM flow from the chiller exhaust, if not you are choking off the the chiller and that is why it is not chilling properly. Just a thought

seldin · 08/20/2009, 12:04 PM

HTH,

I will do that.

Rockfish, the CFM for this fan is 40 with a 4 inch duct that is electrical powered. And now, I have a 10 inch fan directly blowing into intake of chiller.

Thank you for your feedback guys,

- Larry

jeffreylesser · 08/20/2009, 03:33 PM

I had a similar situation. But instead of a closet my chiller is in a much smaller compartment. My soultion is overbuilt on the fan side. But maybe you will get some ideas. I put venting on my cabinet, similar to what you will need to do to get air into your closet. I don't have a vent pulling in fresh air from outside(it pulls from the room) and it works fine. My office is in my house, and I know my house is not airtight so the air is coming from somewhere indirectly.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1669012

seldin · 08/27/2009, 09:36 AM

Jeffrey,

Your monstor fan is still an "understatement". Cabinet and setup is gorgeous.

Thank you,

jeffreylesser · 08/27/2009, 10:46 AM

Thanks! I am pretty happy with my setup. Funny thing, a contractor was helping with some of the install, and we turn the fan on 100% and everyone's hair starts moving a little. The contractor leans over to my wife and says in a hushed voice "I think your husband over-bought". Go BIG or go home.

wrightnow · 08/27/2009, 11:51 AM

Sound like one fact has not been asked, with moving the chiller is there enough flow moving thru the chiller or did you put a new pump in the system to feed the chiller and now there is too much flow.

08/17/2009, 06:46 AM	#1
seldin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Suffolk County, NY Posts: 1,091	After venting chiller to outside, chiller is not chilling I have a 55 gallon reef tank with a sump and chiller in stand below. During summer months, I would leave the stand underneath with the doors open. This chiller is a 1/3 hp, and even though it is very powerful, that was originally recommended to me, because my office A/C is not on when I am not in the office. So if it gets to 90 degrees, etc., my chiller has worked wonderful. Have not had a problem with chiller in 3 years. Well, I now have had a contractor drill access holes from the back wall of the display tank that butts into my closet. I had a contractor, relocate my chiller into the closet and vent it outside. I even had him put in a 4 inch fan to help the flow of the new dryer type vent to the outside. Now, since this is really is now an equipment room, what I did was close this closet and figure that the hot air would vent to the outside. I know that the inline duct fan, is set to go on whenever my chiller is on, because I have a splitter for my controller. Maybe I am missing something. When the chiller was below my display tank, it blew the exhaust into the room and heated the room but chilled the tank fine. Now, I guess is that since I put the chiller in a large closet that vented the out take, that maybe the intake is the problem because the closet is closed. So I had the closet doors left open so that it is like mimicking the old setup where the chiller was now taking the air from the inside of the office but open and still venting to the outside. Since that is not working well, I am not concluding that the venting is not working. Does this make sense. I have the sump return, go to the chiller and then back to the display tank. The flow for this is excellent and I can tell this process is working fine. My next step is to purchase a fan, and have that blow directly into the intake of the chiller to see if that improves flow. For now, I am thinking in the short run, that I may have to disconnect the vent to the outside and see if the efficiency improves, then I can tell if the venting process is working enough. So my next question, is maybe having the chiller in the closet is not a good idea, because the closet will heat up with the doors closed. Then, my question, is how do people have an equipment room, since it will heat up from the chiller. Anyway, your help in making my chiller efficient will be appreciated. Thank you,

08/17/2009, 10:15 AM	#2
BrokeColoReefer Hermit Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mountains of Boulder County. Posts: 2,289	A few things come to mind, are the line runs from the chiller to long? if they are, the chiller will have to work harder to get the water temp down, you can insulate the return line to help. Also, if the closet is super tight, you could be creating enough negative pressure so the chiller cant breath. when you open the door to the closet does it help? and last, im not sure what the refrigerant life span is, but is it possible that your out of coolant? __________________ Stay fishy my friends. Current Tank Info: 300 gallon built in plumbed to the basement. 30 gallon surge for flow, GEO protein skimmer, litermeter 3's for continuous water change (1 gallon per day), calc reactors, kalk reactors, 600w MHx2, 6" DSB, 1000 lbs of live rock (300 display, 700 sump)

08/18/2009, 07:51 AM	#5
seldin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Suffolk County, NY Posts: 1,091	Here is an update. When air tight closet doors closed, chiller not working well. So I bought a fan and it now blows directly into intake of chiller. Air tight closet doors open, chiller working fine. So duct fan, turns on, but maybe not pulling enough air outside. So now testing, if able to close closet doors. If not, I will have to vent intake of chiller ( because I do not want to keep closet doors open. Will it be adequate to just cut a hole in closet the size of a 1 foot by one foot vent to main room. Or is it better to actually duct in-take of chiller to vent in main room. Can I vent in-take to outside of house? Thank you, - Larry __________________ - Larry Current Tank Info: 55 gallon Reef, Aquactinics MH/T5, 1/3 hp chiller, LifeReef overflow, custom sump/refugium, AquaC pro skimmer and Vortech MP40w. Also, a Solana Rimless nano, Viper 150MH, Tunze 9002 skimmer, Vortech MP10 ES and RKL Controller.

08/19/2009, 11:11 AM	#6
seldin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Suffolk County, NY Posts: 1,091	Can you guys please provide feedback. If I vent the intake by making a vent from my office through the closet, it seems like I will try to get the closet to be closer to room temperature, which should be fine, because the original setup when the chiller was in my office was powerful enough to work. The other approach would be to vent the chiller intake to the outside, where the benefit would be no additional noise in my office. However, I would need to duct this, so air is only venting out when chiller is on and not let say in winter when not needed. Thank you, __________________ - Larry Current Tank Info: 55 gallon Reef, Aquactinics MH/T5, 1/3 hp chiller, LifeReef overflow, custom sump/refugium, AquaC pro skimmer and Vortech MP40w. Also, a Solana Rimless nano, Viper 150MH, Tunze 9002 skimmer, Vortech MP10 ES and RKL Controller. Last edited by seldin; 08/19/2009 at 11:22 AM.

08/19/2009, 04:29 PM	#8
luther1200 Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ, shore Posts: 4,376	I would think a vent into the other room would work. But that is really just a guess. But if it worked before I don't see why it wouldn't work, unless the vent was to small. __________________ Matt, 65G reef tank Current Tank Info: 65g reef, mix of sps, lps, few softies. Hoping to upgrade within the year.

08/17/2009, 10:29 AM	#3
mukymuk Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Plano, TX. Posts: 109	The chiller is apparently not getting the air movement you think it is--or else the air moving across the coils is too warm. If you are pushing air out of the building, outside air has to be coming in from somewhere to replace the evacuated air. If there's no way for that to happen, perhaps because the room is relatively air-tight (like a closet would be), then you aren't really moving air out--even with fans running. Equipment rooms generally have a register and return vent which allows them to be climate controlled even with the door shut. Best bet is to have an A/C contractor have a look and tell you what you need to do to achieve the indoor temperature you want. Put your chiller anywhere you want--he'll be able to estimate the heat load and adjust your system accordingly. Bottom line is the chiller needs to be in a location that doesn't exceed a certain temperature or else it will not be able to function the way you need it to. Venting it outside is pointless unless you add another vent to bring outside air in and that air is cooler than the indoor temperature.

08/17/2009, 04:35 PM	#4
Macimage Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Quartz Hill Posts: 4,078	My chiller is in a shed outside that measures maybe 4' x 4' or so. Our outdoor temps can get as high as 110 and the chiller exhaust goes into the shed. The shed gets really, really hot. If I am home, I at least prop the door open. However, my long winded point is that even with all this heat in the shed, the chiller works fine to cool my tank. Perhaps moving your chiller caused a problem with it? Joyce

08/19/2009, 03:45 PM	#7
Macimage Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Quartz Hill Posts: 4,078	Unfortunately, unless someone has done the exact same thing with the exact same circumstances (ie, closet size, room size, airflow, temperature, etc.), there is no correct answer. The only way to know what will work is via experimentation. Good luck! Joyce

08/19/2009, 05:08 PM	#9
ThaNgBOm321 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Tx, houston Posts: 792	mukymuk is on the right tract. the condenser (the coil that cools down the superheated freon aka outside unit) is not getting enough air across it's fins to cool down the freon inside. what you are doing with the chiller inside the sealed closet is the similar to having fans in the canopy hood with MH. the minor difference is that the evaporation of water has a cooling effect. a sealed of closet with chiller on the other hand only has a heat source and no cooling system. A 'cooling' system dose not actually 'make' things cold to say, it only take the heat away from things making it colder. may have lost some of u there. u know what lets get back to this later "if u want". your chiller in your closet is not receiving enough air across it's condenser to cool off the freon inside. although you have a exhaust fan venting air outside (hoping that the exhaust is moving out enough air) the system is still is still 'closed' chamber. your chiller is just running the 'same' heated air across it's fins making it work ineffectively. your must let air in to be able to get air out. in your case, if you got your contractor to put in a vent letting in air from outside in then your problem should be solved. there may be other factors at play but from what i am reading this seems to be it. maybe call around (A/C guys) and see if this will solve the problem. IMO this is what they would recommend too. __________________ YzGyz = Wise Guys ohhh and cows go MOOO!!! 2nd best way is to learn from ones own mistakes but the best way to learn is from others... thx to Randy and so many other for making reefing that much easier

08/19/2009, 05:27 PM	#10
ThaNgBOm321 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Tx, houston Posts: 792	hum.. i was going to explain this but this is much better/ easier to understand 1. The compressor compresses cool Freon gas, causing it to become hot, high-pressure Freon gas (red in the diagram above). 2. This hot gas runs through a set of coils so it can dissipate its heat, and it condenses into a liquid. 3. The Freon liquid runs through an expansion valve, and in the process it evaporates to become cold, low-pressure Freon gas (light blue in the diagram above). 4. This cold gas runs through a set of coils that allow the gas to absorb heat and cool down the air inside the building. __________________ YzGyz = Wise Guys ohhh and cows go MOOO!!! 2nd best way is to learn from ones own mistakes but the best way to learn is from others... thx to Randy and so many other for making reefing that much easier

08/19/2009, 08:48 PM	#11
chilwil84 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: down the shore Posts: 780	when we put gas appliances in small room we put return air grills in for makeup air to allow for proper combustion. you could use a 12X12 cut into the door or a wall with the intake directed toward it.

08/20/2009, 01:16 AM	#12
mukymuk Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Plano, TX. Posts: 109	Between ThaNgBom321 and myself, you have all the theory you need. I'm sorry we can't give you a step-by-step answer, but that's because the real answer is: "it depends". And honestly, it depends on a lot of stuff. My original advice is to get an A/C guy in there. I stand by that. He'll have the knowledge and the tools to assess and devise a solution specific to your situation. That said, understand that you can not vent the exhaust outside unless you also vent the intake outside. Like water and electricity, there has to be a complete circuit (a loop basically) or nothing moves no mater what he size of the fan, pump, or battery is.

08/20/2009, 06:18 AM	#13
seldin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Suffolk County, NY Posts: 1,091	..My original advice is to get an A/C guy in there.... Guys, I have contacted 2 different A/C guys. Basically, these type of chillers are not the standard stuff that they work on. That's why I figured you guys at RC can help. I have received a lot more knowledge from you guys and I thank you. ...That said, understand that you can not vent the exhaust outside unless you also vent the intake outside... This part I am not sure about. I have already vented the out-take of the chiller to the outside. 1) So since I did that, "do I MUST" vent the intake of the chiller to the outside. I was thinking of trying the idea of cutting a hole and make a vent (without duct) facing the intake of the chiller. As we discussed, when the closet doors are open, the chiller works much better. Just hoping that I don't have to cut a huge hole to get the effect I need. So here is what I think my current options to do next are: I would like to vent the closet with a 1 foot opening to the office near the intake of the chiller. 2) Would I get better venting by making it a duct to intake of the chiller? 3) What effect would it have to vent the intake to the outside with a duct? 4) Does anybody know of a vent with a built in fan that I can turn on and off with a plug, so I can connect that to my controller to turn on when chiller is on. Thank you, - Larry __________________ - Larry Current Tank Info: 55 gallon Reef, Aquactinics MH/T5, 1/3 hp chiller, LifeReef overflow, custom sump/refugium, AquaC pro skimmer and Vortech MP40w. Also, a Solana Rimless nano, Viper 150MH, Tunze 9002 skimmer, Vortech MP10 ES and RKL Controller. Last edited by seldin; 08/20/2009 at 06:45 AM.

08/20/2009, 10:35 AM	#14
ThaNgBOm321 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Tx, houston Posts: 792	...That said, understand that you can not vent the exhaust outside unless you also vent the intake outside... this has to do with pressure.. if all you have is a 'source' pumping/pulling air out, you create negative pressure. you dont get any air exchange with this. As things are, air exchange is the source of your problem. try closing your mouth and inhale some air. you cheeks will begin to cave inward into your mouth. at that is what your closet is now. no air in = no air out (well very little is getting displaced, and any that is displace is the 'same' heated air). now if you slowly crack your lips open air will rush in trying to restore the pressure from inside the mouth to the same pressure as outside the mouth. This is what I/we are trying to tell you to do to fix your problem. The Freon inside the condenser coils are trying to rid of this heat so it can go back to it's 'natural' temp. in regular house AC units, the condenser is outside and is air cooled via a fan circulating outdoor air across it's fins. so in theory, cooling your chiller with outdoor air will work but not as efficient as indoor air (obvious here, it's better to cool something hot with cool air than warm outside air). in reality, the bigger the opening the better (it will allow more 'new' air in). This dose not mean we need to but the whole closet down. i suggest going to Lowes or HD and taking a stroll in the HVAC (Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning) isle and check out the registers or whatnots they have. im thinking a 12x5 inch register/difusser size will do nice. while your there.. looking around for a powered vent of some kind.. maybe bathroom fart fan? HTH YzGYz __________________ YzGyz = Wise Guys ohhh and cows go MOOO!!! 2nd best way is to learn from ones own mistakes but the best way to learn is from others... thx to Randy and so many other for making reefing that much easier

08/20/2009, 10:40 AM	#15
Rockfish Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Orlando Fl Posts: 493	Exhaust CFM How much CFM does the exhaust flow? The 4" duct vented outside, is it rated to handle the CFM flow from the chiller exhaust, if not you are choking off the the chiller and that is why it is not chilling properly. Just a thought

08/20/2009, 12:04 PM	#16
seldin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Suffolk County, NY Posts: 1,091	HTH, I will do that. Rockfish, the CFM for this fan is 40 with a 4 inch duct that is electrical powered. And now, I have a 10 inch fan directly blowing into intake of chiller. Thank you for your feedback guys, - Larry __________________ - Larry Current Tank Info: 55 gallon Reef, Aquactinics MH/T5, 1/3 hp chiller, LifeReef overflow, custom sump/refugium, AquaC pro skimmer and Vortech MP40w. Also, a Solana Rimless nano, Viper 150MH, Tunze 9002 skimmer, Vortech MP10 ES and RKL Controller.

08/20/2009, 03:33 PM	#17
jeffreylesser Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 278	I had a similar situation. But instead of a closet my chiller is in a much smaller compartment. My soultion is overbuilt on the fan side. But maybe you will get some ideas. I put venting on my cabinet, similar to what you will need to do to get air into your closet. I don't have a vent pulling in fresh air from outside(it pulls from the room) and it works fine. My office is in my house, and I know my house is not airtight so the air is coming from somewhere indirectly. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1669012

08/27/2009, 09:36 AM	#18
seldin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Suffolk County, NY Posts: 1,091	Jeffrey, Your monstor fan is still an "understatement". Cabinet and setup is gorgeous. Thank you, __________________ - Larry Current Tank Info: 55 gallon Reef, Aquactinics MH/T5, 1/3 hp chiller, LifeReef overflow, custom sump/refugium, AquaC pro skimmer and Vortech MP40w. Also, a Solana Rimless nano, Viper 150MH, Tunze 9002 skimmer, Vortech MP10 ES and RKL Controller.

08/27/2009, 10:46 AM	#19
jeffreylesser Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 278	Thanks! I am pretty happy with my setup. Funny thing, a contractor was helping with some of the install, and we turn the fan on 100% and everyone's hair starts moving a little. The contractor leans over to my wife and says in a hushed voice "I think your husband over-bought". Go BIG or go home.

08/27/2009, 11:51 AM	#20
wrightnow Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: long beach, Ca Posts: 495	Sound like one fact has not been asked, with moving the chiller is there enough flow moving thru the chiller or did you put a new pump in the system to feed the chiller and now there is too much flow.