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Unread 08/31/2009, 07:04 PM   #1
zero26
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How many of you guys use a rubbermaid trash can for RO?DI storage?

Just curious, I am running a generic 32 gal trash can. Saw the 40 sticker on the rubbermaid trash can


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Unread 08/31/2009, 07:13 PM   #2
badwrasse
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generic 35gal for $12 at lowes


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Current Tank Info: 90gal RR,rock wall in progress, MRC sump, reef octopus XP2000I skimmer, marineland pro lighting 2-150w MH 4-54w T5's, hydor wavemaker with 2 #4 controllable pumps, and QuietOne 4000HH return pump.
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Unread 08/31/2009, 07:21 PM   #3
PRDubois
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Lots of people use them


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Unread 08/31/2009, 07:47 PM   #4
powers2001
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40 sticker? You're not meaning $40, are you?

I'll be using a trash can too. Haven't figured on how I will plumb it though.


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Unread 08/31/2009, 08:36 PM   #5
BackSpin
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You have to watch that cheep cans will not leech out toxins over time, Brute cans arent cheep but are FDA approved for food and are safe for storage, I held my breath when buying mine to since the one next to it was less then half. LOL


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Unread 08/31/2009, 08:45 PM   #6
allactiondan
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I use a rubbermade "brute" garbage can. Expensive, yes. Is my tank worth more then 50 bucks, yes.
For all the money you have invested in your tank, whats an other 40 bucks...


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Unread 08/31/2009, 08:48 PM   #7
badwrasse
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Quote:
Originally posted by BackSpin
You have to watch that cheep cans will not leech out toxins over time, Brute cans arent cheep but are FDA approved for food and are safe for storage, I held my breath when buying mine to since the one next to it was less then half. LOL
really i did not know this does anyone half something to read or a link on this


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Current Tank Info: 90gal RR,rock wall in progress, MRC sump, reef octopus XP2000I skimmer, marineland pro lighting 2-150w MH 4-54w T5's, hydor wavemaker with 2 #4 controllable pumps, and QuietOne 4000HH return pump.
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Unread 08/31/2009, 08:50 PM   #8
jason2459
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I use the gray rubermaid for mixing salt water and a cheap generic gray bucket with the HDPE label for ATO ro/di water.


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Unread 08/31/2009, 08:58 PM   #9
Flipper62
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The Brute trash cans have been used for a long time. There has been talk ( All The Time ) that there not safe...... And you need to use a Food Safe Container.

If you check out the specs on the can......or better yet, check their website. It says

USDA Meat & Poultry Equipment Group Listed and assist in complying with HACCP guidelines.

I do agree that if it doesn't say food safe, I wouldn't use it. Plastic containers are made from petroleum.....Not Good. However if it is formulated with other chemicals that make it FOOD SAFE.....then it should be fine


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Last edited by Flipper62; 08/31/2009 at 09:05 PM.
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Unread 08/31/2009, 09:21 PM   #10
zero26
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What kind of toxins could it leech?


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Unread 08/31/2009, 09:30 PM   #11
Flipper62
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Quote:
Originally posted by zero26
What kind of toxins could it leech?
It all depends on how its made. Its just like water tubing. Its made from petroleum.....some are just for watering....like a garden hose & others say ( SAFE FOR DRINKING WATER ).

In any case.....IMO, I only use containers that say FOOD SAFE


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If todays automobile had followed the same development as the computer, A Rolls Royce would cost $100.00. It would get a million miles per gallon, but it would explode once a year killing everyone inside."

Current Tanks... 90 gal Reef... My awesome Office BioCube....( 180 was on hold ..no time ) ... The 180 gal has been sold...Yay..yay..yay.
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Unread 08/31/2009, 09:33 PM   #12
bfuqua
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I vote Brute cans. I have had these for 3 years and they are still going strong.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...&id=1377166422


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Unread 08/31/2009, 09:43 PM   #13
sedor
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I use the cheaper version rubbermaid roughneck as well. I've been meaning to upgrade to a BRUTE for a long time now.


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Unread 08/31/2009, 09:47 PM   #14
Flipper62
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Quote:
Originally posted by ryandlf
I use the cheaper version rubbermaid roughneck as well. I've been meaning to upgrade to a BRUTE for a long time now.
If the Roughneck cans are not food safe ( I dont know ).......Dont scrap them. Use them for your scrap water comming out of the tank in your water changes.


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If todays automobile had followed the same development as the computer, A Rolls Royce would cost $100.00. It would get a million miles per gallon, but it would explode once a year killing everyone inside."

Current Tanks... 90 gal Reef... My awesome Office BioCube....( 180 was on hold ..no time ) ... The 180 gal has been sold...Yay..yay..yay.
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Unread 09/01/2009, 12:51 AM   #15
MGDMIRAGE
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Are there any smaller containers that can be used safely? 10 gallon or so range, i'd get two food safe 5 gallon buckets but that means another powerhead and another heater etc, not to mention more clutter.


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Unread 09/01/2009, 01:02 AM   #16
alaska clowns
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Quote:
Originally posted by badwrasse
really i did not know this does anyone half something to read or a link on this

A similar discussion came up a while ago and someone gave this link, which I bookmarked. Most plastic jugs, buckets, whatever have this triangle on the bottom and the number inside the triangle indicates whether or not the plastic is safe... we've changed out our 5 gallon drinking water bottles for ones that have a 1 or a 2, and I can't remember the other acceptable number. But things like 7 or higher I guess are bad, if I understand it correctly, and leak toxins into the water.
Hope that's helpful.

http://trusted.md/blog/vreni_gurd/20..._water_bottles


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Unread 09/01/2009, 06:50 AM   #17
BackSpin
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Quote:
Originally posted by BackSpin
You have to watch that cheep cans will not leech out toxins over time, Brute cans arent cheep but are FDA approved for food and are safe for storage, I held my breath when buying mine to since the one next to it was less then half. LOL
Let me restate this before a war breaks out you can use cheeper cans but want to make shure of what they are made of like noted Brute cans are food safe and HDPE is also a safe bet cheep cans are molded petro based plastic that will break down overtime, I think it was best put in this hobby whats another $50 bucks.. LoL I will try to find the artical on leaching for everyone..


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Unread 09/01/2009, 06:55 AM   #18
BackSpin
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"alaska clowns" link is a good one cheep plastics have been know to leach carcinogens in to water when exposed to heat or sunlight like PVA thats why the big hype about not using them to drink or for baby bottles, same line of why you want to steer clear of storeing your fish water in it, Just my thoughts Im no expert..


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Unread 09/01/2009, 07:11 AM   #19
jason2459
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Quote:
Originally posted by BackSpin
Let me restate this before a war breaks out you can use cheeper cans but want to make shure of what they are made of like noted Brute cans are food safe and HDPE is also a safe bet cheep cans are molded petro based plastic that will break down overtime, I think it was best put in this hobby whats another $50 bucks.. LoL I will try to find the artical on leaching for everyone..
I figured the HDPE with the #2 recycled label 5g bucket I got would be fine as I get protein powder that are in containers that has the exact same label. Figured it must be food safe enough and should be fish safe enough.


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Unread 09/01/2009, 07:44 AM   #20
BackSpin
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Yea HDPE is one of the safe for today plastics used for food drink medicine, Ect. It is hard to find low grade in food related items, but when they make garbage cans they never think people would store any thing good in them so they take the cheep way out,


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Unread 09/01/2009, 08:22 AM   #21
Hawkdl2
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After Eric Borneman recently reported on the effects of water from the ubiquitous Brute containers on sperm motility, I began to research what "FDA approved food safe", or similar labeling, means.

I spend a lot of time working with the FDA on biologics, so I know a lot of reviewers and have calls into some of them, though I don't know yet if they will be able to answer food container questions. In the meantime I read through a number of section of Title 21 CFR (code of federal regulations) to see what I could find on food containers.

What I have found is the FDA has a list of approved substances that may directly (additives) or indirectly (packaging) contact food. The list is fairly long but referenced in section of 21 CFR 177 - container seals.

The section references and shows a common list of "approved compounds". The list is remarkable in what "they" are allowed to feed us, but reflects the necessary allowances for trace (or not so trace) solvents, polymers, etc. that inevitably come into contact with our food during the manufacturing process.

The take home message is that the regulations, and "approved" labeling only means there are not sufficient levels of any of these numerous known toxic molecules to cause harm to humans when consumed in low to modest amounts. The regulations DO NOT mean to imply that they are not present or that nothing will leaching from a container, or that what does leach isn't toxic to sensitive organisms - sperm or corals, at the allowed levels.

Further, there is nothing in the regulations (that I have found) that specifically requires a container manufacturer to demonstrate consistency of the levels of each of the known approved contact agents if they are below acceptable levels. In other words, minor manufacturing changes could produce containers that have lot to lot variability in toxicity for these sensitive organisms and our reefs.

Lastly, I am confirming, but my research so far suggests there is no definable or demonstrable difference in "safety" between a Brute "approved" trash can and a $500 "potable water" container. Both are subject to the same regulations and both ostensibly meet the guidelines. I would speculate that a cheap "FDA approved" HDPE/LDPE container is made pretty much in the same way as an expensive HDPE/LDPE container meaning the trace contaminates and leaching may be similar.


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Unread 09/01/2009, 03:17 PM   #22
badwrasse
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just at home depot,.. all of the brute cans have a HDPE of 2,4or5 these are all ok its the HDPE #7 polycarbonate plastics that can leach BPA (water bottles) from what I have read so far.


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GOT CRABS?

Current Tank Info: 90gal RR,rock wall in progress, MRC sump, reef octopus XP2000I skimmer, marineland pro lighting 2-150w MH 4-54w T5's, hydor wavemaker with 2 #4 controllable pumps, and QuietOne 4000HH return pump.
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Unread 09/01/2009, 03:25 PM   #23
badwrasse
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hey zero i see that you are a union painter from st.louis thats kinda cool so am I


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GOT CRABS?

Current Tank Info: 90gal RR,rock wall in progress, MRC sump, reef octopus XP2000I skimmer, marineland pro lighting 2-150w MH 4-54w T5's, hydor wavemaker with 2 #4 controllable pumps, and QuietOne 4000HH return pump.
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Unread 09/01/2009, 04:02 PM   #24
bobbyjeb
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just don't get one with wheels on it. It looked like a good idea. Its not. I filled my big ol wheely with 20gals of water from walmart. I added the right amount of salt mix. put a water pump in and walked away. It tipped over into my 90gal stand. You can't get that stuff up...ever. Had to pull carpet, move tank, pull more carpet. paint, move tank, paint agian. No cash for new carpet, spent it on new can and more water!


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Unread 09/01/2009, 06:02 PM   #25
Plan>B
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Quote:
Originally posted by BackSpin
You have to watch that cheep cans will not leech out toxins over time, Brute cans arent cheep but are FDA approved for food and are safe for storage, I held my breath when buying mine to since the one next to it was less then half. LOL
Now is this all brute containers?

Any one know of a FDA 55 barrel that could be stackable?



Last edited by Plan>B; 09/01/2009 at 06:19 PM.
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