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10/25/2009, 02:32 PM | #1 |
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Questions on Vodka dosing
I started dosing Vodka 2.5 weeks ago; I did not start with Microbacter7 (mb7) yet since this wasn't part of the Vodka Distilled (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...nftt/index.php) article I was following. However, now that I have read more on the internet, I plan to start the mb7 (on order).
Some background: Tank: Elos System 70, 55 gals plus ~20 gallon sump; estimated gallons after displacement, about 50. Dimensions: 30x222x20" Sump: Maybe a picture is best; I use GAC in the filter sock coming from the skimmer, live rock rubble in the media bag to the left of that, and a DSB in the compartment to the left of that. Note that I change out the filter socks more frequently than indicated by this photo Water flow: The usual return flow plus a Vortech MP40 on opposite side of tank. Picture: DSB: I have one in the tank (2-4") and in the sump (~8"). Light: 1 x 250 MH plus 2 x 65watt actinics (Giesemann Infiniti fixture); 24" Water Change schedule: 5%, twice/week. It's easy and the animals seem to love it. I use Reef Crystals and keep SG at 12.026. Typical parameters: SG = 1.026 pH = 7.98-8.18 (I know this is low and I have questions about it too) Alk = 9 Ca = 420 Mg = 1400 NO3 = barely pink on Elos test kit, so <1 PO4 = barely blue on Elos test kit, so undetectable I = 0.06 Additives: Bionic 2-part at rec. doses, every other day Occasional Kent's Iodide to keep level at 0.06 for Clavularia Animals: Assorted corals, SPS, LPS and a Clavularia sp. Christmas wrasse Blue spotted jawfish Randall's goby and shrimp, but not together yet Hector's goby 6 x green Chromis 2 x Lysmata skunk cleaner shrimp CUC as stated above Feeding: I feed 2x/day and I use Rod's foods (the regular one and the green one, alternating). Sometimes I use flake or pellet for variety. Amount of Rod's food is about 3-4 pea-sized chunks worth each time. My problem: The tank was started in May. This is my first saltwater tank though I have kept aquaria for over 25 years, all planted tanks. After about 2 months, the tank developed that ugly brown, circular algae that others have had (arc eye and others). I started vodka dosing to try to starve out this brown algae, which may be Lobophora: and here: I have a CUC as well: 10 Astraea snails, 8 Margarita, 15 Nerites, 1 hitchhiker Trochus, 15 Cerith and 1 emerald crab. Also, 6 Nassarius, but of course they are carnivore/detrivores. I followed the Vodka Distilled directions to the letter, using inexpensive 80 Proof Vodka ($6 for small bottle). I am now up to 1.4ml/day of 80 Proof and today is Day 18. However, yesterday I noticed bacterial strands on some rocks after dosing plus more "snow" like material in the water column, so today I backed off to 1ml. I had also noticed some diatoms on the glass (more than usual) plus on the sand (which I didn't have before). I have been feeding more so perhaps I need to back off on the amounts of food. Also, I have been testing NO3 and PO4 weekly and yesterday they both were completely undetectable using the Elos test kits, so essentially zero. However, we all know there is still N and P in the system; the Lobophora algae, or whatever it is, is living on something. Picture of Lobophora Oct 22, 2009: As you can see, the brown algae is still on the rocks, though I think I notice some slight retreating. My questions: 1. Does anyone think vodka dosing will starve out this ugly brown alga? 2. My pH is rather low. I have tried moving the air intake of the skimmer to no avail. I add a buffer to the ATO R/O water, also with little improvement. I use a pH probe that came with the Reefkeeper Lite that I use as a controller. I am about to buy a new probe from Cole Parmer to see if that is the issue. The Elos pH test kit (liquid) says pH is 8.2-8.3, but I understand most liquid kits test high. Is that right? 3. An additional goal is to improve SPS colors. Some SPS seem well (Seriatopora, Bali Green Slimer) and others have turned brown (Vivid's Acropora granulosa "Northern Lights" and Vivid's "Vivid valida". Also, a wild Acropora from the Solomons that is supposed to be pale blue). The one's that turned brown are all supposed to be shades of blue or purple. 3. Other comments? Thanks for any help! |
10/25/2009, 09:13 PM | #2 |
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10/26/2009, 10:22 AM | #3 |
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Vodka experts? Am I approaching vodka dosing correctly? Any experience eliminating the Lobophora this way? Is there a sticky somewhere on coral color problems and their solutions? Thanks.
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10/26/2009, 11:22 AM | #4 |
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I have no experience with Lobophora but you definitely have some slime algae too. I do not believe that vodka dosing will help you with it since the slime algae will consume the carbon source before the bacteria can take advantage of it. You stated that you have zero phosphates but the presence of the slim algae makes me believe that it does exist and that it is being consumed by the slime algae. Get a good phosphate remover and a reactor to get rid of your phosphates then worry about the nitrates.
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10/26/2009, 11:37 AM | #5 |
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Maybe the pictures were poor, but I don't believe I have cyano or slime algae. There is some white fuzz always associated with the brown Lobophora algae. The red dots on the rocks are coralline. This picture is a little dated, but is more representative of the tank in terms of no slime:
Newer shot shows more Lobophora on these rocks but some coralline (pink) as well.: |
10/26/2009, 11:51 AM | #6 |
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you might want to check the Brightwell product line , I was talking to one of their sales rep and of course they do not recommend Vodka dosing, but they have a product that will have a similar effect. I cannot remember the name of the product but check their web site...Good luck,
Denis |
10/26/2009, 11:56 AM | #7 |
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Thanks, I was planning on getting some Brightwell Microbacter7 to go with the vodka. I hear it's a very popular product and seems to work well when carbon dosing.
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12/06/2009, 07:31 PM | #8 |
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This thread made me happy/sad all at once. I finally know what this infernal pest is that has been plaguing me, but it looks like it will be around for a while longer...
My infestation started around the time I began dosing vodka. The white fuzz that grows on it made me stop dosing, since I mistook them for an influx of bacteria. I had a resurgence when I tried MB7/vodka, but I now think that may have been because I didn't use MB7 by itself to start. The last few months I've just been running carbon/po4 remover and it "may" have diminished a little. As of tonight, I started dosing MB7 again, and will wait a few weeks to start vodka. I'd be greatly interested if you find anything that works Serval! |
12/06/2009, 07:59 PM | #9 |
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gypsyboy, it is a total bummer, I agree. I have been dosing MB7 for a month now (3 weeks at the high dose; 1 week at 5 drops/day in my 55 gal tank) and vodka for a little over a week. There is no change in the Lobophora. It is not encouraging that you noticed it when you began the vodka; that means perhaps vodka does not create conditions it hates, unfortunately. I have both an emerald crab and a Sally Lightfoot crab in the tank now; I had read that both eat Lobophora. The emerald crab may do so, but so slowly that it makes no difference. The Sally Lightfoot is fast and spider like and I don't like her too much but she does seem to eat the algae. It may be slowly dissipating, but it is hard to say. Everyone says to get a small Naso tang (they preferentially eat brown algae) but I would have to feel confident that I could get it back out once it was done. I am tempted, believe me...
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12/06/2009, 08:15 PM | #10 |
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Unfortunately my tank is way to small for a naso (34 g solana). I'd add the crabs, but a significant portion of my algae is on the false wall. I curse current every day for making that textured...
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12/06/2009, 08:20 PM | #11 |
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I know the crabs are ultimately going to be a bear to remove, so maybe you're better off without them. You could "rent" a Naso tang for a few weeks and return it perhaps? I hear they decimate the Lobophora in 2 weeks. It the algae is mostly on the textured wall, I presume manual removal doesn't work. Could you get some black acrylic cut to the wall's size to starve it of light temporarily?
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12/06/2009, 08:37 PM | #12 |
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I'd just feel too guilty about the naso the whole time he was in there. I've thought about adding a piece of black acrylic, but I have one piece of liverock that I'm too lazy to move. I always thought that I would eventually win this by keeping nutrients low. Now that I know that may take forever, perhaps I'll rethink the acrylic. I'll still have the problem on my rocks though.
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12/06/2009, 08:40 PM | #13 |
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Do you have the fuzz everywhere that you have the lobophora? I'm wondering what the relationship between the two is.
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12/06/2009, 09:02 PM | #14 |
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Yes, the fuzz goes with the algae. I noticed the fuzz first actually. I wondered "what is that fuzz?" It didn't look very evil, so I left it. Next thing I knew, brown everywhere. I don't know what the relationship is either.
I do think the Sally Lightfoot is making progress, but the race is on as to whether she controls the Lobophora before she/he gets older and therefore more of an omnivore. Once they stop being more of a vegetarian one is in for difficulties according to Ron Shimek and others. He calls Sallys the "Jekyll and Hyde crab." yikes. |
02/28/2010, 06:32 AM | #15 |
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I've been vodka dosing for a year and a half and I also have the brown wafer algae. Seems as though it does help it as that type of algae likes low nutrient water, which the vodka creates. Am thinking of getting a naso, just till it dissapears, then try and catch him.
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02/28/2010, 07:36 AM | #16 |
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I have some as well after dosing Vodka. First I got this huge Calothrix Cyano outbreak that looks like a cobwebs everywhere except they'd be rising up off the rocks with trapped air bubbles. I kept up with the dosing as I heard of people getting the red cyano and this one is related although it looks very different.
Good news is that about 3 months after it started it is finally gone but I am left with some of that brown stuff like you have. It's not bad and if the vodka allows me to keep 50 fish without the tank crashing I'll gladly take the trade.
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02/28/2010, 07:47 AM | #17 |
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i would just let it go, IMO the tank is just going thru it's algea phases. it will go away on its on. be patient. your phosphates cant be that high. just keep up on your regular water changes and you'll be fine.
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03/10/2011, 10:48 PM | #18 |
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hay guess what. ive had this for 3 years and im still trying to get rid of it have any of you had any luck yet?
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03/11/2011, 11:32 AM | #19 |
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Yes, I have controlled it. I am sure it's still in the tank at low levels and would return if I changed anything. I did a combination of things, but the Tuxedo urchin was the most helpful:
1. added BRS PO4 remover (the hi intensity one) to a media bag in the sump: passive flow. 2. added 3 small emerald crabs (I don't think they help much) 3. watched my feeding (I doubt it matters) and my stocking levels 4. added a tuxedo urchin. Basically the urchin's the thing. He/she scrapes the surfaces with it's mouth parts down to bare rock. It removes the brown algae, which I basically had in a flat, non-leafy stage. The urchin also can knock over poorly glued corals (I had several) and he mowed down some of my beloved Clavularia, but not all of it. His plusses outweigh his minuses IMHO.
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Trying to keep it simple; in this hobby, that's not easy! Current Tank Info: Elos System 70, Elos sump/skimmer, Reefkeeper Lite 3, Giesemann Infiniti 1x250 plus 4 x T5s, MP40, Reef Crystals, 2-part Alk/Calcium. Recently added Kalk to ATO. |
03/13/2011, 12:33 PM | #20 |
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hum...
well i already have 1 Pencil Urchin in my tank. i bought he just after i notice the out break the second time. not sure if the type of urchin make a big difference or not. I guess i might try a PO reactor even though my test are reading 0, maybe there just to low to read on the API test kit. IDK BIG QUESTION: The PO reactor wont negatively effect the Cheato algae will it? |
03/13/2011, 01:10 PM | #21 |
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All animals eat slightly differently. I don't know what pencil urchins prefer.
I don't know if the PO4 reactor will affect your Cheato or not. Maybe post that somewhere here or try a search first. I don't have a refugium. The test kits that tell you PO4 is zero are full of it. Only a spectrophotometer can measure the small amounts that make a difference in our tanks. You can read about what the chemists say on the Reef Chemistry forum here on Reef Central as well.
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Trying to keep it simple; in this hobby, that's not easy! Current Tank Info: Elos System 70, Elos sump/skimmer, Reefkeeper Lite 3, Giesemann Infiniti 1x250 plus 4 x T5s, MP40, Reef Crystals, 2-part Alk/Calcium. Recently added Kalk to ATO. |
04/25/2011, 10:28 PM | #22 |
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any updated pics of improvment? this stuff is a bear!
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04/26/2011, 12:20 PM | #23 |
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I can try to take some soon. The infestation of brown wafer algae with the Tuxedo urchin in there seems to be kept down to a few small patches only.
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Trying to keep it simple; in this hobby, that's not easy! Current Tank Info: Elos System 70, Elos sump/skimmer, Reefkeeper Lite 3, Giesemann Infiniti 1x250 plus 4 x T5s, MP40, Reef Crystals, 2-part Alk/Calcium. Recently added Kalk to ATO. |
07/08/2011, 10:41 AM | #24 |
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If it is lobophora and it appears to be, it will spread like wild fire. I first saw a small bit on one of my rocks and didnt know what it was, it kind of grew like coralline algae only it was brown, some of it appeard fuzzy but not all. after a month or so it had spread to three or four rocks, you can manually remove it, but only the top layer peels off,leaving a brown crust underneath which will form a wafer like growth that spreads, I have 150 lbs. of rock and it spread to all of it. this s#*# is a nightmare, after a fruitless battle for several months I got a naso tang. My naso friend ate this stuff down to the bare rock, ALL OF IT , there is no more for him to eat and now I cant get him to eat anything else.any ideas on how to get him to eat? Ive tied nori sheets to rocks, ive soaked different foods in garlick, he wont eat anything but lobophora.
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07/08/2011, 11:31 AM | #25 |
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It may be that there isn't enough flow. I have a small area in my tank where the flow isn't as strong as the rest of the tank and I get little brown slime spots on a rock in that area just as you have. It's in a corner right under the return. Cadlights believed that one return would eliminate dead spots. Wrong. The corner opposite the return is free of any of this.
One of the best investments I made for the tank was two MP10s. There is zero buildup of detritus and no issues with pest algae as a result. They keep everything in suspension to be remove by the skimmer and filter media. |
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