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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: west side of Indianapolis
Posts: 451
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Heat Issues!!
My display was getting up to about 84-84 degrees during the day. My lighting is 250 Reeflux 20,000k run on Ice Cap electronic ballasts (times 2). I run them about 10 hours per day. They were about 4 inches from the water line. Now I made the canopy taller and the bulbs are now about 13 inches from the water line. The sides and back of the canopy are open. Both sides have a clip on fan blowing at a 45 degree angle on the water. There is eggcrate over the water. With all of that over the last 4 days, the highest the display gets now is 80 max, but mostly 79. I would like to lower it another 1-2 degrees to allow extra room at the high end. How do I do that? I keep my house between 68 and 72 at all times. I don't have room for a chiller. I run a Mag 12 for the return, and it is submerged in the sump. Can I drill the sump and run that externally? Would that take a good amount of heat out of the water. Is there anything else I can do? I also have a Mag 9 submerged in the sump to run my AquaC EV 180, and a RIO Hyper Flow (17 I think) running through a T setup to my GEO 612 Ca reactor and a couple of media reactors.
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Gerald Current Tank Info: 90g, built in overflow, 2 Reeflux 20k 250w, 2 Ice Cap 250w elec ballasts, 2 Hydor Koralia's 3 and 2, 29g sump, RIO 3100 return, AquaC EV180 w/Mag 9, GEO 612 Ca Reactor, 85# live rock (half Fiji, half Kalieni), 180# live sand. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Miami
Posts: 700
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I too am struggling to cool my tank by 2 degrees. I was thinking of incorporating an iceprobe chiller.
http://www.marinedepot.com/chillers_...eprobe-ap.html |
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#3 | |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
Posts: 10,598
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Quote:
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Some say the sun rises in the East. Some say it rises in the West. The truth must be somewhere in the middle. Current Tank Info: tore them down to move and haven't had the time or money to set them back up |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 69
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I agree, your temp is acceptable where it is. Taking the mag 12 will also remove heat. A fan on the sump will reduce heat. A shorter photoperiod will reduce heat.
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 67
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wow greenbean, can you explain that again for dumb people like me who didn't get it the first time
![]() What do you mean by : dependent on even more failure points ? So what is the max temp I can allow before worrying? Thanks
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Reefer Current Tank Info: 6 ft, 130g display, 70g sump, 3x MH 400W 20 000 K XM |
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#6 |
Salty Dog
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 818
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If you keep your temp at 78 and whatever you use to cool the water fails, then the temp will increase to 82, and a 4 degrees increase is a lot. If you keep it at 80 and it increases to 82 due to a failure, a 2 degrees increase is not that bad. Bottom line, the lower you keep your temp the more the reef will suffer if your system fails.
It's not so much about max temp, but about the temp variation. The absolute max I would say is around 85 for most species, but if you keep it high for too long everything will stress out. I would say a comfortable max should be around 82. But if you keep your tank at 74, a sudden increase to 80 would kill a lot of things. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 491
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+1 on more fans if you want it cooler. More fans means more evaporation, and the cooler your tank will get.
but, yes 80 is a good temp. It don't think I would make a big effort to lower it from there.
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Click on my name, "danceswithfish" then click on "visit danaceswithfish's homepage!" to see my 90g build! |
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#8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 67
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thanks!
Quote:
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Reefer Current Tank Info: 6 ft, 130g display, 70g sump, 3x MH 400W 20 000 K XM |
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