How do I clean my RODI - bleach?

iwishtofish · 12/07/2009, 10:39 AM

I haven't used it in a year. I have brand new filters and a brand new membrane, as well as new DI media.

Should I just remove all filters, dump (and rinse out) the old DI resin, put a capful of bleach in the first filter chamber, run it until bleachy water comes out the discharge, and then lit it sit for a while?

LPS_Blasto · 12/07/2009, 11:29 AM

Don't expose an RO membrane to chlorine. It will ruin the membrane instantly.

Don't use bleach.

Wash the cartridge cups with a NEW sponge and baking soda with warm water. I'd just rinse it well in tap water and then dry it.

Again, don't even expose that RO membrane to tap water - the direct chlorine could damage the membrane. Thats why there is always a couple 2 or 3 filters for the water BEFORE it reaches the RO membrane. Getting 4id of the chlorine.

iwishtofish · 12/07/2009, 11:39 AM

Thanks LPS_Blasto, for the tips! Actually, I was planning to remove the RO membrane as well, and just run bleach through the entirely empty housing/tubing mechanism to kill any bacteria that might have grown. Will the baking soda take care of that?

iwishtofish · 12/07/2009, 01:57 PM

Anyone else think bleach is a bad idea, or even unnecessary, provided ALL filters/media are removed from the unit? It has been sitting full of water for one year.

New RO membrane and filters wouldn't be unwrapped and inserted until the unit is dry and bleach-free.

Chiefsurfer · 12/07/2009, 03:38 PM

I think it would be OK, if all media was removed, and you ran it for a LONG!!! time. As stated, there is a large amoutn of Chlorine in Bleach(99% of the sterilizing agent in bleach) and if you have ever washed a bucket out or something, it kinda gets slimy and clings to everything. If you can be assured that it is free of chlorine at the end, I'd say yes, but it may take a super-long time. I mean I have rinsed out 5-gallon buckets out with maybe 300 gallons of water, and it still smelt like a swimming pool(chlorine).

There has to be something that would bind with the chlorine to "dechlorinate" the container, but I don't know what it is.

iwishtofish · 12/07/2009, 03:55 PM

Chiefsurfer, now you are giving me reservations about using bleach, even on just the empty unit!

I know I read somewhere that it was recommended to kill bacteria - or maybe mold - but I simply can't remember where!

Maybe I'll just replace the filters and go with it...

Thanks for your reply!

solitude127 · 12/07/2009, 05:03 PM

Here's a thread a while ago. I asked the same thing and got a pretty good answer.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1415770

iwishtofish · 12/07/2009, 05:55 PM

Thanks, solitude127. Exactly what I needed!

Buckeye Hydro · 12/07/2009, 06:04 PM

I was going to post some instructions for you, but that link to the old post did the trick. Thanks solitude!

Russ

Chiefsurfer · 12/07/2009, 07:21 PM

now solitude, that is a great link, thanks.

And as stated, it sticks to plastics, I just did not know tolerances and what-not.........now I know.

iwishtofish · 12/10/2009, 10:44 AM

So, I'm in the process of sanitizing my RO/DI unit now. I'll emphasize more than once that I removed ALL filters, the RO membrane, and the DI resin. This is the first time I've tried it, so I may not be doing it correctly. One thing I thought I might mention to those who are planning on trying the same thing:

In the thread that solitude127 linked to above, it is recommended to run a bleach/water solution through the EMPTY (or bypass RO membrane and/or DI resin) unit. As I was doing so, I predicted that my horizontal chamber for the DI resin might not fill up with water completely, and this was indeed the case. This leads me to also assume that the (also EMPTY

) RO membrane chamber probably does not have the bleach solution contacting the top walls of the chamber.

When I flush the unit, I'm going to try adding an airline regulator to the end of the clean water discharge hose, and closing it down most of the way as I begin to flush the system. I'm hoping this will force the horizontal chambers to fill completely because of the added back-pressure.

** I'll obviously have to be careful not to spray bleach water everywhere, especially in my face, when I try that! **

I'll probably grow impatient and turn the unit upside down while flushing, and then right it again, alternating periodically to make sure all bleach gets out of the system.

Interesting (and somewhat worrisome) process. Maybe I'm making it more complicated than it really is.

iwishtofish · 12/10/2009, 11:03 AM

Well, the airline regulators don't stay on very well under the water pressure put out by an empty RO/DI. Probably won't try that again. I just hope I can get all the bleach out, and feel comfortable about it.

Buckeye Hydro · 12/10/2009, 01:59 PM

You really shouldn't have any horizonatal housings on an RODI system other than the RO membrane housings. The outlets of the RO membrane housing should be rotated so they are near the top of the housing - that's part of what keeps the housing full when the unit is turned off. Temporarily unclip whatever other horizontal housings you have and orient them vertically.

iwishtofish · 12/10/2009, 02:36 PM

I appreciate that information, BuckeyeFS. Maybe once my current DI resin is exhausted, I need to look at purchasing a vertical DI housing. Perhaps a large one, as I have a lot of silica in my water.

I'll check my RO housing to make sure it is oriented as you recommend. Thanks again!

Buckeye Hydro · 12/10/2009, 05:27 PM

You bet.

Russ

12/07/2009, 10:39 AM	#1
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	How do I clean my RODI - bleach? I haven't used it in a year. I have brand new filters and a brand new membrane, as well as new DI media. Should I just remove all filters, dump (and rinse out) the old DI resin, put a capful of bleach in the first filter chamber, run it until bleachy water comes out the discharge, and then lit it sit for a while?

12/07/2009, 05:03 PM	#7
solitude127 Proud user of IO Salt! Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Torrance, CA Posts: 9,136	Here's a thread a while ago. I asked the same thing and got a pretty good answer. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1415770 __________________ Mike <)))>{ <)))>{ <)))>{ <)))>{ ReefKeeping.com TOTM Nov 2012 Socalireefs Featured Reef Oct 2011 Current Tank Info: 603020, 8x54 ATI Powermodule, ReefBrite XHO, ATB Elegance 200, Aquamaxx CTech CaRx, Ecotech Vortechs, Apex Controls, WM Ecobak powered. RedSea Reefer 170, MP10, Apex Jr, Ecotech Radion XR15, Aquamaxx WS-1 Last edited by solitude127; 12/07/2009 at 05:13 PM.

12/07/2009, 11:29 AM	#2
LPS_Blasto Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 581	Don't expose an RO membrane to chlorine. It will ruin the membrane instantly. Don't use bleach. Wash the cartridge cups with a NEW sponge and baking soda with warm water. I'd just rinse it well in tap water and then dry it. Again, don't even expose that RO membrane to tap water - the direct chlorine could damage the membrane. Thats why there is always a couple 2 or 3 filters for the water BEFORE it reaches the RO membrane. Getting 4id of the chlorine.

12/07/2009, 11:39 AM	#3
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	Thanks LPS_Blasto, for the tips! Actually, I was planning to remove the RO membrane as well, and just run bleach through the entirely empty housing/tubing mechanism to kill any bacteria that might have grown. Will the baking soda take care of that?

12/07/2009, 01:57 PM	#4
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	Anyone else think bleach is a bad idea, or even unnecessary, provided ALL filters/media are removed from the unit? It has been sitting full of water for one year. New RO membrane and filters wouldn't be unwrapped and inserted until the unit is dry and bleach-free.

12/07/2009, 03:38 PM	#5
Chiefsurfer Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Seaside Park, NJ Posts: 2,138	I think it would be OK, if all media was removed, and you ran it for a LONG!!! time. As stated, there is a large amoutn of Chlorine in Bleach(99% of the sterilizing agent in bleach) and if you have ever washed a bucket out or something, it kinda gets slimy and clings to everything. If you can be assured that it is free of chlorine at the end, I'd say yes, but it may take a super-long time. I mean I have rinsed out 5-gallon buckets out with maybe 300 gallons of water, and it still smelt like a swimming pool(chlorine). There has to be something that would bind with the chlorine to "dechlorinate" the container, but I don't know what it is.

12/07/2009, 03:55 PM	#6
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	Chiefsurfer, now you are giving me reservations about using bleach, even on just the empty unit! I know I read somewhere that it was recommended to kill bacteria - or maybe mold - but I simply can't remember where! Maybe I'll just replace the filters and go with it... Thanks for your reply!

12/07/2009, 05:55 PM	#8
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	Thanks, solitude127. Exactly what I needed!

12/07/2009, 06:04 PM	#9
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	I was going to post some instructions for you, but that link to the old post did the trick. Thanks solitude! Russ

12/07/2009, 07:21 PM	#10
Chiefsurfer Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Seaside Park, NJ Posts: 2,138	now solitude, that is a great link, thanks. And as stated, it sticks to plastics, I just did not know tolerances and what-not.........now I know.

12/10/2009, 10:44 AM	#11
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	So, I'm in the process of sanitizing my RO/DI unit now. I'll emphasize more than once that I removed ALL filters, the RO membrane, and the DI resin. This is the first time I've tried it, so I may not be doing it correctly. One thing I thought I might mention to those who are planning on trying the same thing: In the thread that solitude127 linked to above, it is recommended to run a bleach/water solution through the EMPTY (or bypass RO membrane and/or DI resin) unit. As I was doing so, I predicted that my horizontal chamber for the DI resin might not fill up with water completely, and this was indeed the case. This leads me to also assume that the (also EMPTY ) RO membrane chamber probably does not have the bleach solution contacting the top walls of the chamber. When I flush the unit, I'm going to try adding an airline regulator to the end of the clean water discharge hose, and closing it down most of the way as I begin to flush the system. I'm hoping this will force the horizontal chambers to fill completely because of the added back-pressure. I'll obviously have to be careful not to spray bleach water everywhere, especially in my face, when I try that! I'll probably grow impatient and turn the unit upside down while flushing, and then right it again, alternating periodically to make sure all bleach gets out of the system. Interesting (and somewhat worrisome) process. Maybe I'm making it more complicated than it really is.

12/10/2009, 11:03 AM	#12
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	Well, the airline regulators don't stay on very well under the water pressure put out by an empty RO/DI. Probably won't try that again. I just hope I can get all the bleach out, and feel comfortable about it.

12/10/2009, 01:59 PM	#13
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	You really shouldn't have any horizonatal housings on an RODI system other than the RO membrane housings. The outlets of the RO membrane housing should be rotated so they are near the top of the housing - that's part of what keeps the housing full when the unit is turned off. Temporarily unclip whatever other horizontal housings you have and orient them vertically.

12/10/2009, 02:36 PM	#14
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	I appreciate that information, BuckeyeFS. Maybe once my current DI resin is exhausted, I need to look at purchasing a vertical DI housing. Perhaps a large one, as I have a lot of silica in my water. I'll check my RO housing to make sure it is oriented as you recommend. Thanks again!

12/10/2009, 05:27 PM	#15
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	You bet. Russ