chiller pump suggestion-RSM

TheWeaz · 03/04/2010, 12:57 AM

alright.. Ive been using a Fluval 304 to pull water out of my red sea max which pumps into my Aqua euro usa 1/10 hp chiller then back to the tank.

I've been having problems with water quality and have a feeling its because the fluval is collecting too much crap. I'm inexperienced with the flow ratings so I don't have a clue how large of a pump is needed so I could take the fluval out altogether.

The top of the tank is 55" tall.

dots · 03/04/2010, 01:22 AM

The fluval 304 is rated at 260 gph per the documentation, but it doesn't speak of the head of the pump. I am sure its out there, but since your talking about ditching the canister filter....which is a good idea.......now you need to find a pump that will be large enough to pass the water to the chiller, and have enough energy to get back.....and not too be too big in the process so it is with the rating of the chiller.

http://www.aquaeurousa.com/Chillers.htm

Per the site, you want to be flowing 420-720 gph though the chiller.

So, the question is....which Red Sea do you have? and how do you intend on plumbing the chiller?

I assume a pump in the filter chamber, with the hose exiting at the top, traveling to the chiller then returning in the same area?

Because the water will be going down hill, then back up to the same spot...you can ignore gravity if I am thinking clearly, (except where it goes from the pump then crests over...so a foot)....find the loss per foot of the pipe you are using, add that amount in "feet" to that 1....so 1.5 is probably close for your head loss then. And tack on a little for the chiller itself.

Find a pump that fits within your taste and when looking at the pump curve at 1.5 ft of head and around oh.... 500-600 gph, should be on the pump curve...which would be a match.

Now if I am correct in my TDH estimation, and with that flow rating....it should cool well and not burn up the chiller....in this case you could get one that is right about the flow high end (700gph) and throttle it back a tad if the chiller has a hard time keeping up with things....then you can slow it down so it has enough time to suck some heat out.

I would still recommend some kind of filter on the pump intake to keep as much out of the chiller as possible and to clean it out every 4 months or so to keep its heat transfer efficient.

....double check the TDH, but that may help a bit....

dancewithethan · 03/04/2010, 01:27 AM

Do you have enough room to put small sump in there? I would avoid canister all together and go with sump/refug and protein skimmer. if you do this, you can tee off your return PVC to your chiller and use ball valve to adjust the flow rate. Hope this help

best

TheWeaz · 03/04/2010, 01:04 PM

Thanks all for the replies.. I am a bit embarrassed of my tank at this moment. Sounds like ive been fighting an up hill battle with this canister filter so hopefully I can turn it around by removing it.

03/04/2010, 12:57 AM	#1
TheWeaz Beer Snob Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Orange, CA Posts: 620	chiller pump suggestion-RSM alright.. Ive been using a Fluval 304 to pull water out of my red sea max which pumps into my Aqua euro usa 1/10 hp chiller then back to the tank. I've been having problems with water quality and have a feeling its because the fluval is collecting too much crap. I'm inexperienced with the flow ratings so I don't have a clue how large of a pump is needed so I could take the fluval out altogether. The top of the tank is 55" tall. __________________ ~The Weaz Current Tank Info: Leemar 100g

03/04/2010, 01:22 AM	#2
dots Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 6,258	The fluval 304 is rated at 260 gph per the documentation, but it doesn't speak of the head of the pump. I am sure its out there, but since your talking about ditching the canister filter....which is a good idea.......now you need to find a pump that will be large enough to pass the water to the chiller, and have enough energy to get back.....and not too be too big in the process so it is with the rating of the chiller. http://www.aquaeurousa.com/Chillers.htm Per the site, you want to be flowing 420-720 gph though the chiller. So, the question is....which Red Sea do you have? and how do you intend on plumbing the chiller? I assume a pump in the filter chamber, with the hose exiting at the top, traveling to the chiller then returning in the same area? Because the water will be going down hill, then back up to the same spot...you can ignore gravity if I am thinking clearly, (except where it goes from the pump then crests over...so a foot)....find the loss per foot of the pipe you are using, add that amount in "feet" to that 1....so 1.5 is probably close for your head loss then. And tack on a little for the chiller itself. Find a pump that fits within your taste and when looking at the pump curve at 1.5 ft of head and around oh.... 500-600 gph, should be on the pump curve...which would be a match. Now if I am correct in my TDH estimation, and with that flow rating....it should cool well and not burn up the chiller....in this case you could get one that is right about the flow high end (700gph) and throttle it back a tad if the chiller has a hard time keeping up with things....then you can slow it down so it has enough time to suck some heat out. I would still recommend some kind of filter on the pump intake to keep as much out of the chiller as possible and to clean it out every 4 months or so to keep its heat transfer efficient. ....double check the TDH, but that may help a bit.... __________________ ~Doug

03/04/2010, 01:27 AM	#3
dancewithethan Ethan M Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Rafael, California Posts: 673	Do you have enough room to put small sump in there? I would avoid canister all together and go with sump/refug and protein skimmer. if you do this, you can tee off your return PVC to your chiller and use ball valve to adjust the flow rate. Hope this help best __________________ Good things come to those who’re patiently wait - Ethan - Current Tank Info: Tank:~ 70 Gs Cadlight + 20 Gs sump\| Lights: 36" ATI Sunpower Dimmable T5x6 39W \| Skimmer: Octo\| Vortech M1 return\| GeoReef Cal Reactor \|2 MP10 VorTech + MaxSpect GyreXF150\|Neptune APEX Controller\|Skimz Bio Pellets\| Emperor Aquatics UV 18W Sterilizer

03/04/2010, 01:04 PM	#4
TheWeaz Beer Snob Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Orange, CA Posts: 620	Thanks all for the replies.. I am a bit embarrassed of my tank at this moment. Sounds like ive been fighting an up hill battle with this canister filter so hopefully I can turn it around by removing it. __________________ ~The Weaz Current Tank Info: Leemar 100g