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Unread 03/31/2010, 04:00 PM   #1
gooyferret
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Calcium reactor questions and picture....

Hi everyone,

Well im thinking of buying this reactor for $200 is it worth it? Its a MRC dual nano reactor rated up to 200gal. This is what the selling is saying on it:

It is about a year old and has been used for about 6 months. It comes with the MRC Dual Nano body, a full gallon of CRM Media, a maxi jet 900, a Mag 2, 2 manifolds one never used, effluent box, a 5lb CO2 tank, a jbj regulator, 2 bubble counters, and a milwaukee SMS 122 without a probe. Asking 200$ for it. Pick up would be at the swap since I live out of state

And what do you see that i would need besides the PH probe to get it setup.

Do you think i need an inline PH holder or should the effluent box be ok??



Plz let me know what you think this will be going on a 180gal mixed reef.

TIA!


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Unread 03/31/2010, 04:06 PM   #2
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Assuming that all that stuff works, I think that is a good deal. A probe does seem like the only thing you would need.

Personally, I prefer to use a peristaltic pump to push water through the reactor. I find it more consistent and reliable than a powerhead with a drip valve.


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Unread 03/31/2010, 04:10 PM   #3
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I'm not sure how the two stages are plumbed together in your case...but the idea is to use the pH probe and controller to lower stage 1 down to pH of 6.5 or so...then the low pH water is pushed through stage 2. By the time it comes out of stage 2, the pH might be over 7.

So you really want to control the pH of the fluid by sticking the probe directly into stage 1...or having it read the fluid output from stage 1 before it enters stage 2.


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Unread 03/31/2010, 04:12 PM   #4
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Oh yes...the bubble counter isn't really very important when you are using a pH controller and solenoid to deliver CO2. It provides visual confirmation that CO2 is going in...but the exact rate that the CO2 goes in (bubble count rate) is no longer important.


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Unread 03/31/2010, 04:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Untamed12 View Post
Oh yes...the bubble counter isn't really very important when you are using a pH controller and solenoid to deliver CO2. It provides visual confirmation that CO2 is going in...but the exact rate that the CO2 goes in (bubble count rate) is no longer important.
The bubble counter is definitely important. The pH controller should be used as a fail safe. You'll want to match the demand of co2 going with your flow rate so the pH controller stays on for as long as possible.


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Unread 03/31/2010, 04:51 PM   #6
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Well the person im buying it from says that he just had the PH probe in the effluent box that drips into the main tank. Am i able to do it that way or is it better to have it on the main chamber (1st chamber)? If i should put it on the first chamber how can i do that myself without having to buy a new top??

Thanks!


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Unread 03/31/2010, 05:37 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by KJAhp098 View Post
The bubble counter is definitely important. The pH controller should be used as a fail safe. You'll want to match the demand of co2 going with your flow rate so the pH controller stays on for as long as possible.
OK. I suppose I lean on my controller more than you do. I don't think there is a real need to count bubbles once the CO2 is controlled by pH. You are correct in that the optimal bubble rate would be one that the controller doesn't need to do much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gooyferret View Post
Well the person im buying it from says that he just had the PH probe in the effluent box that drips into the main tank. Am i able to do it that way or is it better to have it on the main chamber (1st chamber)? If i should put it on the first chamber how can i do that myself without having to buy a new top??

Thanks!
Well..I wouldn't do it that way. By the time the probe detects a ph low situation and turns off the CO2, the actual pH in stage one would be extremely low. It certainly isn't as accurate to do it that way.

If the reactor is built by MRC, I would just order a replacement top for the reactor that has a probe holder built in. I'm sure MRC wouldn't charge too much for a replacement top. PM did that for me many years ago.

Or... you can DIY something that puts the probe in the circulation line of the pump that is connected to stage 1. If you do this, ensure that you can remove the probe without the entire reactor emptying when you do. Valves on either side of the probe holder or something like that.


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Unread 03/31/2010, 06:28 PM   #8
tkeracer619
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Originally Posted by gooyferret View Post
Well im thinking of buying this reactor for $200 is it worth it?
Absolutely. Buy it.

If the regulator tanks grab a www.aquariumplants.com electronic regulator and if you have a hard time getting the effluent consistent use an adjustable peristaltic pump.

I use the AP regulator and a cole-parmer digital pump that is adjustable in 1ml/m increments. My reactor is 100% stable. No tinkering and my controller only serves as a fail safe, it never actually turns off the regulator.


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OK. I suppose I lean on my controller more than you do. I don't think there is a real need to count bubbles once the CO2 is controlled by pH. You are correct in that the optimal bubble rate would be one that the controller doesn't need to do much.
If you set up a reactor without paying attention to bubble count you run a greater risk of the setup failing. I have seen several solenoids fail open and dump entire bottles while nobody was looking.


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Last edited by tkeracer619; 03/31/2010 at 06:34 PM.
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Unread 03/31/2010, 06:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
If the reactor is built by MRC, I would just order a replacement top for the reactor that has a probe holder built in. I'm sure MRC wouldn't charge too much for a replacement top. PM did that for me many years ago.

Or... you can DIY something that puts the probe in the circulation line of the pump that is connected to stage 1. If you do this, ensure that you can remove the probe without the entire reactor emptying when you do. Valves on either side of the probe holder or something like that.
That was what i was thinking of doing. I talked to MRC and for an inline they wanted $30 unless he was quoting me the price for the new top....but i was asking about inline so not sure would have to call to make sure again tomm.

Has anyone done a DIY inline before? I was told there is an easier way to do it and cheap...Anybody know how?

Thanks


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Unread 03/31/2010, 06:41 PM   #10
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You can make an inline out of some fittings available at home depot for a few $. In the electrical section look for cord holders.

I will try to find the link.


Not the one I was looking for but a good one.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2009-03/diy/index.php


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Last edited by tkeracer619; 03/31/2010 at 06:49 PM.
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Unread 03/31/2010, 07:01 PM   #11
gooyferret
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
You can make an inline out of some fittings available at home depot for a few $. In the electrical section look for cord holders.

I will try to find the link.


Not the one I was looking for but a good one.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2009-03/diy/index.php
I think im goign to do an inline dont have a drill press or anything to make sure i have an exact straight bore through the acrylic top. A DIY one sounds good to me for the inline. that just needs to go on the line from the first cylinder to the 2nd chamber right?


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Unread 03/31/2010, 07:14 PM   #12
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yup


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Unread 03/31/2010, 07:19 PM   #13
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I have seen several solenoids fail open and dump entire bottles while nobody was looking.
I love it!


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Unread 03/31/2010, 07:42 PM   #14
tkeracer619
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I love it!
You see what I did there eh


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Unread 03/31/2010, 08:26 PM   #15
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You see what I did there eh
Yeah, it's got me looking around an empty room!


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Unread 03/31/2010, 09:24 PM   #16
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Thanks for the help guys might need it again for setting it up though!


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