Alk conversion

[808Rob]

does anyone know how to convert Alk from mili eq./liter to dkh? or is it the same thing.

[Tuscaquatics]

Nope, not the same thing...

http://ozreef.org/library/tables/alk...onversion.html

[Percula9]

Example: 10dkh divided by 2.8= 3.57meq/L So 3.57meq/Lx2.8=10dkh

[808Rob]

Is 10 dkh an acceptable level for Alk?
I have a Red Sea Alk test kit and the color charts puts me about 3-3.5 meq/l stating that is high for Alk?

[Tuscaquatics]

Originally Posted by 808Rob

Is 10 dkh an acceptable level for Alk?
I have a Red Sea Alk test kit and the color charts puts me about 3-3.5 meq/l stating that is high for Alk?

Do you know your pH? Specific gravity? Calcium?

10 dkH is in the higher end but generally an acceptable number. I wish I could keep mine at 10, but then 11 or 12 might be even better.

[808Rob]

PH 8.3
SG 1.024
Cal 480ppm
No3 20-25ppm

[Tuscaquatics]

I'd say you might wanna bring your SG up to .026, but your calcium is already so high. You have to be dosing. So are you doing a two-part, kalk, what?

But overall, the numbers are OK, but you gotta slow down on the calcium. Do you know your magnesium? Usually if you keep your pH, calcium and alk in line and do water changes, your magnesium should be fine.

The nitrates are a little high if you have corals or other inverts. But that can be a topic for another thread.

[808Rob]

I just dose Calcium with Kent's liquid Calcium which wants everyday dosing but since my Calcium is so high(was higher a week ago), I've cut back the dosing to maybe once or twice a week.
Kalk is with Kent's Kalkwasser mix which I add a teaspoon everytime I top-off the water every 2-3 days.
Haven't tested for Magnesium
water changes are about 15-20 gallons every 2 weeks. I don't have an ro/di filter for top-off water, just a pvc tube with filter media and carbon.

[Percula9]

An alk of 10dkh is fine but get a test kit that gives an exact reading like API. The Red Sea kit only gives you a range. That is not really good for this hobby, especially if you are going to have corals.

[808Rob]

Are my values good enough to keep Zoas and anemones?

[808Rob]

PH spike?
Just did a 20% water change with kalk mixture. I guess the kalk didn't mix well and clouded my whole tank up. Is that too much kalk which will cause a PH spike and harm the inhabitants???

OUCH

[Tuscaquatics]

Whoa, whoa, whoa. Slow down.

You dose calcium. All right. But then you dose kalk for alkalinity? Kalkwasser is calcium hydroxide. When you add that, you're increasing your calcium and alkalinity and pH. It's an all-in-one solution.

It really needs to be dripped into the tank slowly. Dumping it in all at once caused it to precipitate in your tank.

[808Rob]

Ok, if I use kalk, I don't need calcium dosing??
It cleared up in an hour..

[Tuscaquatics]

Yes. Kalkwasser IS calcium dosing, with alkalinity rolled in. Want your mind blown a little more? The Kent Kalkwasser that you paid 15 dollars for? Ever heard of pickling lime? You can buy 3 times as much of it at the grocery store for about 3 bucks. It's the exact same thing, calcium hydroxide.

But let's get back to what you're doing. Once and for all, give me all your info. Tank size, filtration, latest parameters, and most importantly, inhabitants.

[808Rob]

110g FOWLR tank with 4 fish. 1 christmas wrasse, 1 bicolor anthias, 1 yellow tang, and 1 blue damsel. about 80 lbs of LR. 20-30 gallon sump with bioballs(reduced to half the load of BB). Planning to convert sump to fuge/sump combo. Coralife 65 skimmer(planning to get the SWC 160 soon).
PH 8.3
SG 1.024
Cal 480ppm
No3 20-25ppm
Parameters as of yesterday. water change was today.

[Tuscaquatics]

OK, so if you have no corals, why are you dosing calcium and alkalinity?

[808Rob]

Does LR need calcium or alk?
Also have a few feather dusters and a few button polyps. 1cleaner shrimp and banded shrimp I didn't mention. a dozen hermit crabs.
I would like to keep zoas and anemones but would like my parameters to be close to that of a coral tank. Would it work?

Should i change some water again without the kalk?

[Tuscaquatics]

Yes it would work. But those corals, especially if it's only a few, probably won't need dosing to thrive. Depending on which salt mix you use, there should be enough of what they need in there to sustain them between water changes.

Live rock does not need calcium or alk. Neither would inverts like shrimp or crabs. At least not elevated amounts.

If you're going to use kalk, you need to make a mixture of it with water and slowly drip it into the tank. Adding it all at once is what's causing the cloudiness.

Rather than change water again, do some tests and get back to me. Find out your nitrates, calcium, alk, SG and pH.

[808Rob]

just tested water params:
calcium 460 (API test kit)
Alk 2meq/l (Red Sea test kit)
PH 8.6 (Red Sea test kit (not sure if kalk raised the PH at water change)
SG 1.024+
N03 100ppm (Tetra test kit (just tested yesterday at 25ppm, bad test kit?))
N03 250ppm (Red Sea test kit (guess the Tetra kit may have been right))

[Tuscaquatics]

OK, now we can get somewhere. First of all, as soon as possible ditch the Red Sea and Tetra test kits. They're toys. Get API across the board or Salifert.

460 on your calcium is good. A little high, but it's where I try to keep mine for my corals and coralline algae.

The 2 meq/l converts to about 5.5 dkH, which is low. The thing is, that test kit is inaccurate which means it could be anywhere from 5.5 to maybe 8 dkH. That's why you need a new kit for that.

8.6 pH would be about the highest you would ever possibly want to safely go if you're dosing. It's probably due to the sudden kalkwasser onslaught. But once again, the test kit accuracy is in question. 25 bucks towards a digital pH tester online would be a great investment, especially when dosing.

This brings us to the SG. In reef settings most people tend to keep it around 1.026, as I do. Some might say it's a little high, but the elevated salinity brings up your calcium, alkalinity and magnesium on its own. What kind of salt do you use? I use Reef Crystals, which has elevated levels to begin with. Also, what are you using to test SG?

Now for the nitrates. Out of those two tests, I'd be more likely to believe the Tetra, mainly because 250 nitrates would be kinda hard to believe. Either way, you probably need to do as big of a water change as you can. 50% would be a good idea. Do you have a huge algae problem?

Do the water change and stop dosing! You don't have anything to even use the calcium up.

[808Rob]

I am using Instant Ocean salt and also an Instant Ocean Hydrometer. I'll look for the API test kits at the LFS.
Since I don't have corals, I can leave the SG at .024 can't I? or should I raise it.
I used the Tetra yesterday and it was about 25 ppm and today after the water change it seems higher. Maybe there's still material floating around??
I don't have a huge algae problem, but I will get some cyano here and there but nothing major. The cyano don't get to the blanketing stage. It takes about 2-3 days then some brown maroon algae will start on the sand (I have large grain sand) which I just stir up. Nothing like diatoms because it doesn't get mucus looking.

water looks almost crystal clear

[Tuscaquatics]

Stirring up the sand isn't a good idea. How much sand do you have, height-wise? 1 inch, 2 inches?

Yes you can keep the SG at .024. But like I said, you need to do a huge water change to get everything back in normal range.

[808Rob]

I have 1-2+ inches of sand.
I will plan on a large water change and don't plan on doing anymore dosing of calcium or kalk.
Are my parameters decent for zoas and anemones?
Thanks
Still open for suggestions

[Tuscaquatics]

Right now, no you're parameters are not OK for zoas and mushrooms. You need to figure out what your nitrates are and do something about them. And you need to get your calcium, etc. in check.

[Percula9]

You should get a refractometer for the salinity measurement. The API test kits will be more accurate then the ones your using. You don't need kalkwasser at this time. Go to www.bulkreefsupply and get a two part. Two part is sodium bicarbonate or carbonate and calcium chloride in two parts that are balanced. I don't suggest anemones at this time. Some mushrooms and zoas should be okay. See how they do first for a month before adding more. Patience is essential in this hobby.