Chiller drop-in or in-line? Which one?

[fishwonder]

Please vote: Which chiller is better? Durability-wise? Should I buy drop-in for easy, convenient, no-pump, or in-line? Thanks in advance.

[rogerwilco357]

i was just going to ask the same question lets see what they say i am facing the same dilemma .

[fishwonder]

Checking to find the answer.

[redbrick1]

I use to have an inline...got sick of the pumbing requirements. Extra pump needed (another heat source) and worst....you couldn't be certian if the innner chambers of the chiller was completely cleaned of algae....

I'm going with a drop in...no extra pump, no plumbing...simple....easier to see what I need to scrap off to clean...

The efficiency argument has yet to be proven....

[Shard]

I use an inline chiller on my return line. By placing it in the return line, there is no need for an extra pump.

If you are worried about algal growth, that isn't really an issue.

Most problematic algae like hair algae only grows where light is present. Most species of algae are photosynthetic and since chilling blocks in an inline chiller are not clear, light doesn't penetrate. It is dark inside.

If you use clear tubing, it is a remote possibility that a little bit of light leaks in around where the tubing is connected to the chilling block, but that issue can easily be solved by just using dark or black tubing. To be clear, I have never heard of this being a problem.

I have clear tubing on mine, and it looks kind of bad on the inside of the tubing, but my inline chiller has been fine for almost 2 years. I have not yet had to disassemble the setup to clean it, nor has it ever clogged. In hindsight, using dark tubing would have been a better idea, because it prevents growth on the inside of the tubing, which would result in a better looking setup, and smoother flow.

As for efficiency, I would say they are about the same. If you look at the ones produced by Current USA, the 1/3HP modular inline chiller like mine and the 1/3 drop-in chiller both have 4524 BTUs of cooling power.

Detritus could eventually build up in an inline chiller, or a drop-in could have gunk collect on it also. I guess a drop-in is easier to move around, remove, or service because of the lack of lines.

In the end, I think it is really just a matter of preference. That said, I will say it seems that inline chillers are more common.

[rwb500]

Originally Posted by Shard

As for efficiency, I would say they are about the same. If you look at the ones produced by Current USA, the 1/3HP modular inline chiller like mine and the 1/3 drop-in chiller both have 4524 BTUs of cooling power.

i agree with everything you said except this. the btu number is derived from the power of the motor, not the efficiency of the unit as a whole. however the thermal conductivity of the cooling probe is probably good enough to minimize the loss of cooling power, so, for most purposes, you are correct in saying they are equally efficient.

[Shard]

Originally Posted by rwb500

the btu number is derived from the power of the motor

To be specific, 1 BTU is equal to the amount of energy needed to raise (or in our case lower) 1 pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. This makes it fairly easy to calculate how much cooling power you will need for a given application.

I was being a bit general above, as I think you are right about the thermal transfer of the probe, so I figured it didn't really warrant much of a mention.

I would wager that the drop-in chillers are probably just the components/probe from the inside of an inline chiller block conveniently placed at the end of an insulated line.

[MaLi]

I have my chiller plumbed on the return line. I use an Eheim 1262 that I Tee right above the sump walls and one small lateral line feed the GFO reactor and the main goes to chiller and back in tank.

Keep it simple and you will be much better on a long run.

hope it helps,
Marian

[fishwonder]

Thanks for all responses. I am setting up 125 gl tank with 55 gl sum, refu. All information details are helpful.