Fixing plumbing after a tank is running

Ycore · 06/28/2010, 08:35 AM

So, long story short when setting up my tank months ago, in the midst of my first ever attempt at plumbing a tank myself, I didn't use nearly enough purple primer and pvc glue when socketing my drain pipe into the bulkhead drain.. Yesterday I was removing my filter sock which snagged my drain hose and yanked the drain pipe right out of the bulkhead-- showering the sump area with water while I frantically tried to shove the drain pipe back into the bulkhead. It's secured at the moment with a bit of duct tape (doesn't take much force to keep it in there since it's just the drain), but I'm unsure what is the best way to fix this that is "reef safe" since the tank is running with livestock in it.. Normally I would just reprime and reglue the drain pipe into the bulkhead, but I'm worried that it would be toxic to the corals and fish.. The other option is just to keep the duct tape in place.. Not pretty but seems to be effective... Ideas?

chimmike · 06/28/2010, 08:44 AM

maybe glue around the outside of it? or use 100% silicone caulk

coralfish · 06/28/2010, 08:57 AM

I have re-pvc'd with the tank running...you will have to shut the water flow off for enough time for the pvc cement to dry though. Also, I have used teflon tape wrapped around the pipe coated with the "Rain & Shine" pvc cement.

Ycore · 06/28/2010, 09:22 AM

Ok thanks, will probably go the pvc glue route.. Beading caulk around the outside seam isn't really an option because I would only be able to access the front half of the pipe- the rear is facing the back of the cabinet and at best I can slide my finger around the rear.. I just wanted to make sure that the PVC glue wouldn't kill everything in my tank.

dcombs44 · 06/28/2010, 09:32 AM

I wouldn't use pvc cement on any area that will contact the water while it's wet.

IMO, your only options are to cement around the outside of the pipe or drain it down below the the drain, cement and let it cure.

Since there is very little pressure on it, you may be fine to just leave it dry fitted if it's not leaking.

coralfish · 06/28/2010, 09:40 AM

The drain will have to be allowed to dry prior to reintroducing water..otherwise it be washed away and into the water, hence the statement "you will have to shut the water flow off for enough time for the pvc cement to dry". If you can re-route the drain temporarily, make the repair, then re-connect you won't have to shut the water flow off. I don't like leaving pipes un-cemented or at least secured in some way, (although I have in the past), as they tend to work loose when I'm not at home.

Ycore · 06/28/2010, 09:51 AM

The drain is connected to a bulkhead which is connected to a durso in my overflow, so it is quite easy to empty the drain of water simply by turning off the return pump. Assuming an hour or two is all it takes for it to fully cure, I have no problems leaving my return off with just my powerheads running for water movement. My concern is the toxicity of the fumes and the cement itself.

It does stay together "dry-fitted", but barely-- hence me slightly tugging it with my filter sock and yanking it out. Not comfortable leaving it dry fitted, but it does not leak dry fitted, so I don't need a Jaws of Life type seal.. Anything that will keep it in place will be fine, doesn't need to be watertight.. It's fugly, but any issues with just ramping up the duct tape usage?

WGardiner · 06/28/2010, 10:12 AM

I replumbed my return line not too long ago. Just left the pump off for an hour or so and let it dry. No fumes when I turned the pump back on and everything was good.

Ycore · 06/28/2010, 10:15 AM

Double post

Floowid · 06/28/2010, 10:50 AM

I had to replumb a return recently. It worked fine. I just shut off the main pump for 2 hours, made the repair, and everything was fine with just the in tank powerheads for the 2 hours, and there were no ill effects from the pvc primer or cement.

Steve175 · 06/28/2010, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floowid

I had to replumb a return recently. It worked fine. I just shut off the main pump for 2 hours, made the repair, and everything was fine with just the in tank powerheads for the 2 hours, and there were no ill effects from the pvc primer or cement.

Agree totally. PVC primer and cement are made for potable water and, IME, are completely reef safe. $0.02

06/28/2010, 08:35 AM	#1
Ycore Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 315	Fixing plumbing after a tank is running So, long story short when setting up my tank months ago, in the midst of my first ever attempt at plumbing a tank myself, I didn't use nearly enough purple primer and pvc glue when socketing my drain pipe into the bulkhead drain.. Yesterday I was removing my filter sock which snagged my drain hose and yanked the drain pipe right out of the bulkhead-- showering the sump area with water while I frantically tried to shove the drain pipe back into the bulkhead. It's secured at the moment with a bit of duct tape (doesn't take much force to keep it in there since it's just the drain), but I'm unsure what is the best way to fix this that is "reef safe" since the tank is running with livestock in it.. Normally I would just reprime and reglue the drain pipe into the bulkhead, but I'm worried that it would be toxic to the corals and fish.. The other option is just to keep the duct tape in place.. Not pretty but seems to be effective... Ideas?

06/28/2010, 08:44 AM	#2
chimmike oxygen abuser Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Parrish, FL Posts: 5,089 Blog Entries: 2	maybe glue around the outside of it? or use 100% silicone caulk __________________ -Mike Tankless wonder Geaux Noles!

06/28/2010, 08:57 AM	#3
coralfish Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hardmoney, KY Posts: 750	I have re-pvc'd with the tank running...you will have to shut the water flow off for enough time for the pvc cement to dry though. Also, I have used teflon tape wrapped around the pipe coated with the "Rain & Shine" pvc cement. __________________ One leg missing and both hands free. Current Tank Info: 220 Reef

06/28/2010, 09:32 AM	#5
dcombs44 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 2,913	I wouldn't use pvc cement on any area that will contact the water while it's wet. IMO, your only options are to cement around the outside of the pipe or drain it down below the the drain, cement and let it cure. Since there is very little pressure on it, you may be fine to just leave it dry fitted if it's not leaking. __________________ Current Setup: 10 Gallon Skimmerless Zoanthid Tank Lighting: Single 175 Watt Metal Halide (14,000 K Hamilton Lamp) Filtration: 10 gallon sump/refugium and Phosban Reactor Return: Mag Drive 700 Controller: ReefKeeper Lite (Basic Version) Circulation: TBD Age of System: Build is in Progress

06/28/2010, 09:40 AM	#6
coralfish Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hardmoney, KY Posts: 750	The drain will have to be allowed to dry prior to reintroducing water..otherwise it be washed away and into the water, hence the statement "you will have to shut the water flow off for enough time for the pvc cement to dry". If you can re-route the drain temporarily, make the repair, then re-connect you won't have to shut the water flow off. I don't like leaving pipes un-cemented or at least secured in some way, (although I have in the past), as they tend to work loose when I'm not at home. __________________ One leg missing and both hands free. Current Tank Info: 220 Reef

06/28/2010, 09:22 AM	#4
Ycore Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 315	Ok thanks, will probably go the pvc glue route.. Beading caulk around the outside seam isn't really an option because I would only be able to access the front half of the pipe- the rear is facing the back of the cabinet and at best I can slide my finger around the rear.. I just wanted to make sure that the PVC glue wouldn't kill everything in my tank.

06/28/2010, 09:51 AM	#7
Ycore Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 315	The drain is connected to a bulkhead which is connected to a durso in my overflow, so it is quite easy to empty the drain of water simply by turning off the return pump. Assuming an hour or two is all it takes for it to fully cure, I have no problems leaving my return off with just my powerheads running for water movement. My concern is the toxicity of the fumes and the cement itself. It does stay together "dry-fitted", but barely-- hence me slightly tugging it with my filter sock and yanking it out. Not comfortable leaving it dry fitted, but it does not leak dry fitted, so I don't need a Jaws of Life type seal.. Anything that will keep it in place will be fine, doesn't need to be watertight.. It's fugly, but any issues with just ramping up the duct tape usage?

06/28/2010, 10:12 AM	#8
WGardiner Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Cape Coral, Fl Posts: 242	I replumbed my return line not too long ago. Just left the pump off for an hour or so and let it dry. No fumes when I turned the pump back on and everything was good.

06/28/2010, 10:15 AM	#9
Ycore Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 315	Double post

06/28/2010, 10:50 AM	#10
Floowid Registered Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Centerville, UT Posts: 712	I had to replumb a return recently. It worked fine. I just shut off the main pump for 2 hours, made the repair, and everything was fine with just the in tank powerheads for the 2 hours, and there were no ill effects from the pvc primer or cement.

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