Silent return-how to do it without creating siphon?

[chimmike]

So I'm doing the beananimal on my upcoming 100g build

But for the return I'm concerned about noise as well. I know that if I plumb the return below water level and the power goes out, it'll create a siphon thru the pump down to the sump, causing a possible overflow.

I know that I could put the returns over the back edge via loc line, with the nozzle under water, but again it'd create a siphon unless I drilled a hole in the pipe. If I drill a hole in the pipe, it'll spew water out and make noise.

Is there any way to avoid creating the siphon but keeping it silent?

[insane]

Have one of your locline nozzles as close to the surface of the water as possible without breaking the surface and splashing while the system is on. When the power is off that locline nozzle will start sucking air in first and will break the siphon in the return. No need to drill a hole.

[csmfish]

drill progressivly larger holes in the pipe just under/at the water line. When the power goes out, it will drain just to that level. Make sure you have enough reserve in the sump to absorb 5 gallons or so.

[chimmike]

I'll be using a 75g for a sump.

Insane, would this work based on using two returns? Say I have two returns split from the pump, split again to 4 loc-lines into the tank. Woud, say, 1 of them close enough to the surface be sufficient to break the siphon for all 4 ?

[Indymann99]

Heres how I do it. My return is silent..
In my config my DT WILL back siphon about 1in down but my sump can handle the extra water.

I also run a Herbie drain system so the entire tank is dead quiet with the stand doors closed.

http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/n...=Surfaceag.mp4

[Indymann99]

Originally Posted by chimmike

I'll be using a 75g for a sump.

Insane, would this work based on using two returns? Say I have two returns split from the pump, split again to 4 loc-lines into the tank. Woud, say, 1 of them close enough to the surface be sufficient to break the siphon for all 4 ?

This might help you.

This config would let about 3-4" of my DT back-siphon = BAD BAD BAD


This config only lets 1" of my DT back-siphon =


here is my sump config - single Mag 9.5 --> Checkvalve (that still works but I dont trust them) ---> Y fitting ----> return bulkheads into overflow ----> out lockline



Hope this helps

[chimmike]

Okay makes sense. Well from what I'm gathering if I keep one of the returns close enough to the top, maybe 1/2-3/4" of DT drain before air hits the line to break siphon.

[Indymann99]

Just so its clear in a reverse siphon situation in the TOP picture above (2 loclines DOWN and 2 UP), the DT water would drain down to the lockline Y (going into the overflow).

Your sump may or may not handle this much drop.

[Frick-n-Frags]

i built quiet overflows. i thought about how not to let the water fall any great distance because my first reeftank i built a corner overflow and drilled the bottom. the water going over the toothed edge and hitting bottom was noisy and the straight tube to the sump definitely would gurgle or whatever sometimes.

i used internal shallow boxes for my overflows with no teeth cut into the overflow edge. snails do both sides of the box and yeah i routinely look for snails that made it to the sump.

i used large , i think 1.5" bulkheads to that std sized PVC plumbing for the elbows. then i went to black sort of corrugated sump drain hose which really breaks the water flow on the way to the sump. the whole setup is very quiet. you can hear the water if you put your ear to the corrugated hose.

anyway, just another angle at killing noise.

[csmfish]

my drilled holes only let 2 gallons back in, I dont have to worry about making sure the line locks are placed a cretin way, I can place them any way I want and my system id DEAD quiet with a 2x4 open stand. No gurgling, whooshing sounds or anything, noda, nothing. Its the best of all worlds and nothing elaborate. Get screw together pieces of PVC and experiment, the outcome is amazing.

[BigOldReef]

Drill the breather/vent holes in the loclin at the loc closest to the bulkhead and drill it parrallel to the surface, or even turn the loc so the stream of water is aimed downward. This will break the siphon once the water level drops to the bulkhead height.

[chimmike]

yeah I was thinking of that. I wasn't sure if I would drill the tank for bulkheads for the return or place the return over the top.......but it being rimless, I should probably drill bulkheads........that begs the question then: how high will I want the water to be? I was thinking within 1" of the rim during normal running.

I'll have to experiment and measure just how many gallons 1-2" of tank volume is in order to place the return bulkheads properly.......