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09/06/2010, 05:35 PM | #1 |
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Ich lesson learned
My tank about a hour ago
my tank now I got out a rabbitfish, blue tang, and a clown skunk. Totally destroyed my rock work.
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09/06/2010, 06:02 PM | #2 |
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So what is the lesson learned? ...
QT every new fish for at least 6 weeks. Ich stinks. There are worse diseases than ich and it is lucky that it wasn't any worse without a QT first. Trying to get fish out of a tank is hard even if it is only 3 fish. Those people who lost hundreds of dollars worth of fish before they started to QT might have actually been trying to help. Just wondering what you learned |
09/06/2010, 06:08 PM | #3 |
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Ich sucks. Biggest problem I have with this is they went through QT for four weeks in cupramine. Then still another two without. Still got ich within a week of being in the DT. I'm gonna hit them again with another QT or HT whatever and let the 120 sit fallow.
I lost all my fish in my 55 to ich, so I know that feeling too, but I really don't want that in my 120. It's not so much my lesson to learn, even though I have, but to all others who don't QT and get ich. Prepare to destroy that pretty live rock you just got all set up the way you like it.
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09/06/2010, 06:49 PM | #4 |
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Yeah, that's a lesson I had to learn about three times Wish you the best with your fish.
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09/06/2010, 06:59 PM | #5 |
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And to add to that, Even when we QT all our fish with hypo/copper we need to remember that ich can come in as hitchhikers on coral, inverts and rock. So to truly have an ich free tank we need to QT everything that goes into our expensive tanks.
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09/06/2010, 07:10 PM | #6 |
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Ok so I'm new to this stuff,when u qt ur new livestock,fish and inverts what is the best way to do it? What's the best stuff to use?what's the best method?do you do this to everything?snails.crabs,shrimp,anomies?
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09/06/2010, 07:11 PM | #7 | |
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09/06/2010, 07:16 PM | #8 |
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I am now doing just that. I have three QT setup now. Two for fish and one for corals. At this moment in time I have all my corals in the DT, as it will remain fallow for the 8-12 weeks. Two fish QT are going and I will start the cupramine tomorrow night. Figured I would give them a night of rest and eating before the copper. There is no rock, no sand, just a few pvc pipes and a plastic sunken ship in one.
I just hope someone learns from my lesson as well as myself and using patience in the future.
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09/06/2010, 07:36 PM | #9 |
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But when u do the qt for the corals and anomes what if anything do you put in the tank?
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09/06/2010, 07:52 PM | #10 |
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Nothing that I know of. Corals you can dip. Some say that dip and add to your DT, but I would still worry about ich if you are not sure. I just lost a powder brown tang in QT from ich, even though the LFS swore they had eradicated it from their tanks. If you let the coral sit in QT you save yourself a headache later.
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09/06/2010, 07:53 PM | #11 |
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When you say dip,what are we dipping into?just fresh water?
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09/06/2010, 07:55 PM | #12 |
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They make coral dip. I just got some called reef dip by seachem. There are others out there too.
You make up a gallon or so of your DT water and mix in the amount of dip slution you need and let the corals sit in that water for 10-15-20 minutes. Whatever the directions are.
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09/06/2010, 07:57 PM | #13 |
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Good God people! Ask the reefers you get your rock etc. from if they have ich in their tank. If they say no, there is no need to QT everything that goes in your tank! If they say yes, DON'T BUY IT! Jeesh! Rock, corals etc, can NOT host ich. This is complete overkill! The chance of bringing something in on a rock or coral is just about zilch! Why make this any more complicated than it needs to be? Once again; ich cannot be hosted on rock, corals, anemones, invertibrates etc. Please cite some reliable studies that show this to be the case, otherwise, you are wasting your time and creating much more work and expense then you need to.
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09/06/2010, 08:28 PM | #14 | |
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new things for the tank. People will swear up and down they are ich free and it is up to each of us to decide who or when to trust. Anyway... Seems to me if you bring home a snail in a bag of water.. the snail's shell contains some water inside it. That water could contain ich. Ditto with a new frag. You acclimate it by putting the bag in the tank, slowing pour in some display water, and then finally bring it out of the bag into the display. Are you sure that water dripping from the coral does not contain ich? Seems a very reasonable precaution to me. One mistake can ruin a huge display tank with ich. People are not saying ich is using a snail or a coral as a host.. but they are saying that the water those two things are in could contain the parasite in one of its stages is all. |
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09/06/2010, 08:48 PM | #15 | |
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09/06/2010, 09:05 PM | #16 | |
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Maybe we should do a poll to see how many people actually QT EVERYTHING that goes into their tank. Look, all I'm saying is that for the vast majority of us, this is a non issue. I would be willing to bet that MOST of us here do NOT QT everything that goes into our tank. And the vast majority of us will NOT get ich from a snail or a rock or a coral or whatever. Again - Why make this hobby more difficult than it needs to be?
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09/06/2010, 09:16 PM | #17 | |
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Unfortunately, I think you may be understating the reality. Understanding the parasite's life cycle suggests otherwise. When you are dealing with a fairly infested tank (which there are many), there are countless thousands of ich cysts lying on every surface in the tank, rock, corals, and the sandbed. Tanking sand, rock or even a coral from such a system and placing it directly in an ich free display would indeed be a substantial risk and likely infect the system. This is where the myth comes from that ich is in every system and impossible to erradicate. It only seems this way because people who do not quarantine eveything eventually infect their system, thereby creating the false perception that you cannot keep a system free from ich. Ich is a parasite that does mot materialize spontaneously out of thin air. It has to be introduced. Unfortuantley, if you do not quarantine everything, the chances are extemely high that you will if you add a lot of things to your system eventually introduce ich, particuarlly b/c most of our sytems are probably infected with it. Last edited by Stuart60611; 09/06/2010 at 09:22 PM. |
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09/06/2010, 09:28 PM | #18 | |
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This really isn't rocket science - it's more like marine biology. Current tank info: 180 gallon AGA, 40 gallon custom sump, AquaC EV240 skimmer, PM calc reactor, 3x 250w DIY MH, PCI CL-650 Chiller, 2x Koralia 4's, 2x Koralia 2's |
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09/06/2010, 09:29 PM | #19 | |
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09/06/2010, 09:37 PM | #20 | |
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I have read many studies on the subject and suggest you research the same before you make such statements. Ich does multiply incredibly aggressively, and a single micoscopic cyst produces hundreds of offspring. Also, there have been studies conducted on how well the free swimming stage of the parasite is able to successfully seek out a host fish, and the result is that the parasite is very good at it. Remember, in the ocean ich is not in a confined space and has a much more difficult time locating a host fish and therefore has evolved some elaborate scenses to locate a host necessary for survival. Studies have shown that it is able to literally smell out a fish very effectively. In confined system, the free swiming stage of the parasite is easily able to make its mark because the fish have no way of escape. This allows the parasites to multiply and grow much more rapidly than would be able to in the ocean. As such, the introduction of just a few cysts has a very substantial probablility of creating an outright infestation because in a closed system the free swimming ich that hatch have little trouble making their mark. |
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09/06/2010, 09:48 PM | #21 |
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As a general practice quarantine is a good idea especially when we're in the "new to the hobby" section. In twelve years I've had 2 tanks completely wiped out by ich. It isn't pretty and watching your fish die is a really discouraging thing to have to do when you're just getting into the hobby, especially when you likely aren't familiar with any of the methods to treat it.
I'd guess many people leave the hobby after getting a tank wiped out. This is especially true in a larger established tank where it's almost impossible to catch the affected fish after the fact without tearing apart your whole reef. Have I quarantined every single fish or coral I've bought? No, but at least twice I've wished I would have |
09/06/2010, 09:51 PM | #22 | |
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This really isn't rocket science - it's more like marine biology. Current tank info: 180 gallon AGA, 40 gallon custom sump, AquaC EV240 skimmer, PM calc reactor, 3x 250w DIY MH, PCI CL-650 Chiller, 2x Koralia 4's, 2x Koralia 2's |
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09/06/2010, 09:56 PM | #23 | |
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This really isn't rocket science - it's more like marine biology. Current tank info: 180 gallon AGA, 40 gallon custom sump, AquaC EV240 skimmer, PM calc reactor, 3x 250w DIY MH, PCI CL-650 Chiller, 2x Koralia 4's, 2x Koralia 2's |
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09/06/2010, 10:00 PM | #24 |
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Easy, for non-fish, you keep one quarantine that you never have any fish. All new non fish items added to the non fish quarantine remain their for 8 weeks. Then you know it is safe to add the new non fish item from the quarantine to the display because the parasite needs fish to survive. All new fish additions imo should be treated in a separate hospital tank profolatically for parasites to reliably avoid parasite introduction. These do not need to be expensive set ups and can be made to be broken down very easily and stored when not in use. All you need is two plastic tubs, cheap light and filter for the fish hospital tank, and a bit better power compact light, heater, and filter for the non fish quarantine. Both quarantines and corresponding equipment could be easily purchased for less than $150 US.
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09/06/2010, 10:02 PM | #25 | |
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Steelhead again and again comes up with the same thing. wants case studies when there is far more evidence against his case than for it. Is it really that hard to get a piece of live rock or a snail and let it sit in a tank by itself with no fish for 8 weeks? I mena honestly, it doesnt hardly anything at all to run a 10g QT (or even a larger one for that matter). a very small heater and a very small powerhead and a very small filter and that's it. There is nothing difficult about it at all. I have 22 nassy snails in my QT right now, nothing else in there, no sand, no rock, no nothing, they just kick around in there, I feed the tank lightly every 3 days. I have a feeling that your additude comes from the fact you are too impatient to wait the 8 weeks when you are all excited about your new purchases and want to see them in your DT. They are just as interesting in the QT as they are in your DT. my QT has had liverock, corals, inverts in it and now because of all of those things I also have a bunch of pods living in there as well which are fun to watch too. If you don't want to go the extra mile to ensure your DT doesnt have ich so be it, to each his own. I just don't see why you always have to beat up on everyone who does want to do it right the first time. Ohh well, see ya agin in the next ich post with the same argument. Last edited by Jstdv8; 09/06/2010 at 10:43 PM. |
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