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11/12/2010, 12:15 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Calgary/ Canada
Posts: 191
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Upgrade Transfer
So I know normally with a transfer you mix your additional water to the same salinity as your existing water and than make the transfer and use as mush water from your old system.
Well my question is about live rock. Now I want to buy a bunch of new rock, and do the bonsai look in the new cube and the existing rock that I have now will mostly go in my sump. Would it be best to cycle the new tank and than add my coral with the new system or could I cycle this tank for a couple of weeks, add my water from the old tank with sand, rocks and coral. This is my first time and I have a couple of really nice acan colonies that I don't want to loss |
11/12/2010, 12:41 AM | #2 |
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Location: Billings, MT
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From what I have always read and from what I understand it would be best to cycle the new tank with the new rock first, because the new rock is more than likely uncured and even if you put your old rock and sand in the new tank you will probably still have an ammo and nitrite spike. But if you are planning on using new rock that you know has already been cured, it should be alright to switch everything with out cycling the new tank, although you might still see a bit of a spike in the ammo and nitrite. Hope that makes sense, lol.
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11/12/2010, 06:31 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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Bottom line is that the new rock should be cured either in the new tank or in a separate container before you transfer your stock. It sounds like you will have less rock in the display of the new tank. Have you considered using clean dry rock in the new tank since you will have your cured rock in your sump? It will seed over the course of a couple of months and should not cause a spike. When I upgraded I used a combination of dry rock and my existing LR and did not have a cycle. This may not work in every situation but I didn't have any issues. HTH.
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~Graham Current Tank Info: Tank: 40 breeder; 20H sump w/SWC 120; Sicce 3.0 return; Vortech MP-10; Sundial T5, DIY Actinic LED (3W Cree). Livestock: Pair of Black & Whites; Midas Blenny; Firefish; Yasha/pistol; Black Leopard Wrasse; LPS and SPS |
11/12/2010, 06:52 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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I'd set up the new tank with new rock, and let it cycle. Fishless.
When you start doing water changes in the new tank, I'd use water from the old tank instead of newly mixed water. After the new tank has been running for a couple of months, I'd start moving fish from the old tank. A couple per week, drip acclimating them as if they were new purchases. Keeping a lookout for signs of stress, ammonia, and nitrite. Of course this assumes you have the luxury of keeping both systems running. You might also throw a sponge filter in your old sump ASAP, and transfer it to the new sump once the new tank is running. |
11/12/2010, 01:03 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Calgary/ Canada
Posts: 191
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Its not a huge tranfer. Just upgrading from a biocube to a 25gal starfire cube. Sadly my comdo board doesn't allow tanks over 40gal so my 60 was moved to my parents when I moved. Hey they like it and its free fragging for me.
I have considered dry rock but I just found out that BRS does not ship to canada and I am looking for branching/shelve rock. My LFS has LR always in stock but If I do go that route it will be dried out. So keeping both tanks running can happen. And I will add water from my old system and put it into my new one while it cycles. So what about sand? am I better off just buying new sand? |
11/12/2010, 02:52 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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IMO, yes new sand is a good idea or cleaning your existing sand very well.
__________________
~Graham Current Tank Info: Tank: 40 breeder; 20H sump w/SWC 120; Sicce 3.0 return; Vortech MP-10; Sundial T5, DIY Actinic LED (3W Cree). Livestock: Pair of Black & Whites; Midas Blenny; Firefish; Yasha/pistol; Black Leopard Wrasse; LPS and SPS |
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