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01/13/2011, 10:27 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 34
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Three weeks into cycle
We have a 38 gal tk with 20# of LR 1.5" to 2" of live sand one power head. all test look good Nitrate came up a little had a small bloom of brown algae, about 8 days ago we added two hermit crabs and two snails and 1 chromis who seems to be doing well. My question is I have noticed a slight drop in the ph 8.2 to 7.96.
I would like to have a mixed tank in time and understand the ph for this type of tk shouldb be 8.2-8.4 Should l start tring to raise ph slowly. What can I add to do this... |
01/13/2011, 10:30 AM | #2 |
Moved on to my couch
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: se michigan
Posts: 1,065
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Leave it, dont do anything to try to bring it up.And stop adding animals to the tank.Your probably still cycling for another 2 weeks.Have you checked for ammonia??
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01/13/2011, 10:43 AM | #3 |
Sharks!!!!
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Apopka, Florida
Posts: 478
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Second that from Sasharotty: Don't touch it. The tank will get nasty a little (looking that is) This is normal for the cycling. since my tank change to the 112 i've had a masive diatom algae bloom, i mean everything is covered and looks brown. Continue your water changes as normal and watch the parameters. If your that worried about it leave the lights off for a day or two but the good bacteria needs to develop.
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01/13/2011, 11:01 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Grand Junction, MI
Posts: 149
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Any history on your ammonia and nitrite levels? Did you see those numbers increase and then decline to 0? You're not cycled until you do and then you should wait a week or so before adding a CUC. That chromis should have gone to QT first, which would have given you more time to ensure your cycle is complete. I recommend at least a 4 wk QT period.
Setting up a QT is not that hard or expensive, but it will save you from tearing apart your DT trying to catch fish that have ich so they can be treated. Also, you are obviously anxious to add fish to your DT, so imagine having to wait 8 weeks with no fish in there because you introduced ich to your tank and now you have to let it die off. Slow down. Read the stickies on cycling and QT setup. It will be time well spent.
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1 kenya,1 toadstool, 1 branching frogspawn, 1 very small candycane, sinularia, GSP, Xenia, 2 firefish, pair of perculas. Current Tank Info: 75g, 20g sump, 15g fuge, 80# sand, 60# rock, 6x54w Aquaticlife T5HO, Oct 110-DNWB, Mag 9.5, 2xKoralia 1050, JBJ 300W htr, GFO reactor, grnd probe |
01/13/2011, 11:26 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 34
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Thanks will review the stickies
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01/13/2011, 01:37 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 1,420
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alot of times PH can be fixed simply by adding more surface aggitation on the water. just point the powerheads up a bit till you get really good sized waves. test again in 24 hours at the same time you tested today and see if there is a difference
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01/13/2011, 03:40 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 34
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Thanks I have not trended my ammonia will buy ammonia test kit tonite..I have been using test strips that measure Nitrate Nitrate Ack and ph..The Nitrites have come up little. Still in the safe zone.. The ph has come down a little still in the safe zone also...
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01/13/2011, 03:49 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: cary il
Posts: 430
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thouse are way incorect to be useing. you need to buy the master kit. and get the fish out of their if you can. how do you even no if you had a spike with out tests. also how did you start the cycal like useing shrimp, or fish food. also my ph goes down to about 7.7 at night. 7.9 is a great PH.
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01/13/2011, 04:16 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 1,420
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agreed, get a master API kit, not too spandy and plenty accurate enough to tell you where you are with the cycle
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