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11/01/2011, 11:29 AM | #1 |
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Posts: 34
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ID please green grass
I have this green grass stuff taking over all my corals and live rock. What is it and what kills it or eats it?
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11/01/2011, 11:39 AM | #2 |
Moved On
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Location: Stockton, CA
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It looks kind of like caulerpa brachypus. As far as getting rid of it goes, manual removal is probably your best bet.
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11/01/2011, 11:46 AM | #3 |
RC Mod
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If it is limited to one rock, take that rock out. You'll thank us later. Better to replace the rocks than allow that stuff to spread.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
11/01/2011, 12:31 PM | #4 |
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yes I have found it spreads fast, it is on several of my live rock, and seems to be killing my corals. So will try to get it off.
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11/01/2011, 12:39 PM | #5 |
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It's nearly impossible to remove, every little root fragment left behind will sprout a new plant. That is why Sk8r recommends its removal IE: throw it in the trash. You also have a major bubble algae outbreak to complicate matters. High magnesium levels (1500+) using Kent TechM has been reported to slow its growth and even kill it off over an extended period of time. IMHO it would be less expensive to frag as many corals off the infected rock as possible and then throw the infected rock away.
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11/01/2011, 02:23 PM | #6 |
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Location: Carmel, IN
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Something is feeding the algae. High nutrients is usually the problem. Some steps that can help:
1) Black out period with no lighting for a couple days and cover with blanket 2) Manually remove as much as possible 3) Test Phosphates, ensure source RO/RODI water has low TDS (prefer 0) I like running a phosphate reactor to remove phosphates and also having a fuge with a macro algae in it that will consume all the nutrients the algae feeds off of and then less likely to have algae outbreak in DT.
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11/01/2011, 04:18 PM | #7 |
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It might be a little tedious, (every week/biweekly) but I would much rather remove as much as you can right before a water change than throwing a bunch of rocks in the trash. There's going to be alot of life lost with this method. (algae aside) It's actually quite beautiful IMO, it's just needs to be manicured a little.
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11/03/2011, 03:17 PM | #8 |
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I was told that a yellow tang might eat this. Anyone else think so?
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11/03/2011, 04:00 PM | #9 |
Moved On
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Possibly, but adding a tang might not be the best thing to do as far as algae control goes. How big is your tank?
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11/03/2011, 04:04 PM | #10 |
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55 know it is small tor a tang, but only 4 fish in there at the moment bur plan on getting 2 emerald crabs and sixline wrasse this weekend crabs for bubble algae and wrasse for bristle worms
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11/03/2011, 04:18 PM | #11 |
Moved On
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Bristleworms are cool. They're a great part of your CUC. I wouldn't add a tang though. Your tank is a little too small for it and that would really suck if it didn't eat that algae. Manual removal is probably your best bet.
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11/03/2011, 04:23 PM | #12 |
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what about emerald crabs for bubble algae
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11/03/2011, 04:37 PM | #13 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Stockton, CA
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It's hit & miss. Some people have had great success with them, but I didn't. They didn't seem to pay no mind to the bubble algae that I had but my zoanthids started to look funny right after. (closed) I got rid of it. There real easy to catch though, so give it a try. If it doesn't take, just remove as many of those bubbles as you can right before a water change. You can get rid of them faster then they can reappear. GL.
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