Custom Tank and Stand Build

[Jayhawker518]

All

I havent posted on RC much and its been a while but wanted to update everyone with my most recent journey. Please feel free to follow along

I have had a 29G Cube, a 55G, and the 120G. These were all non-drilled glass tanks. I always had issues with the overflows and water changes, sump compatibility. Then I recently moved to Georgia and had to take my other tanks down and consolidate as I was moving into an apartment. So I took it in my own hands to make some my own tank and own stand.

Ill show pictures of my journey, and then offer up criticism and thoughts about some of the issues I am dealing with now. I made the tank out of 3/8th in acrylic from a youtube video that inspired me.

Here are my tank specs.
Custom made acrylic 57ish G tank
10 gallon glass sump
Durso overflow, self made
40+ lbs of live rock
1 Phos-Reactor
1 Heater
Lights (My friend is working on making a LED upgrade)
SWC 160 Protein Skimmer, yes a bit large, but does the job
Eheim Pump

Parameters: Spot on right now, if issues come up Ill take new readings and post them
0 of all the bad stuff
1.025 SG

Stock List
Assorted clean up crew, snails, hermit crabs
2 Tank Raised ORA Clowns
1 Cleaner shrimp
1 crazy legged thing in my rocks. Someone mentioned a worm of some sort
1 camel shrimp

Eventually, Gold Sand Goby, Bi-Color Blennie, Kole Tang, 2 Firefish. (We will see how that plays out)

Questions for the audience:

I hate my sump, and have it designed wrong. Do I try to upgrade my sump and put in the correct baffles to reduce bubbles?

My sump is slightly noisy. I have heard putting flex tubing under my pump will help. I think my water coming down is making it loud as well. As a note my pump up valve is wide open and the down pipe valve is wide open.

I have used a auto-top off, each time its been miserable.

Id love to put out a blog, but Im not a Premium member so Ill try to post here as much as I can.

I am also in the process of planning my next tank build, anyone have any ideas? Better designs (I heard the Bean overflow is a good option) Id like to try something difficult but not that big that maybe I could sell to a member or craigslist.

[Jayhawker518]

Here is the tank being build.

Bought an 8x8x3/8" sheet of acrylic custom cut into sheets of 4x2x3/8

This is the start of the sides going up


This is it all completely cemented. Note I kept the covering on to not scratch it


The tank without the covering on it. Notice that the holes and overflow arent drilled or on yet.


My new SWC 160 Protein Skimmer, and the necessary beverage to build a custom tank


I realized since I was building a tank, I needed a stand so I decided to try my hand at that as well. Probably the last time I make my own stand.


Naked stand with tank on top and sump in


With the side before it was standed and some equipment in.


My amateur staining job


It starting to be filled.


All ready to go

[Jayhawker518]

Stained and filled with rocks


Most current as of today with fish and cover and lights


Closer look at the lights


The sump


Drain and electrical equip


Top view of the sump. I hate that the baffles are wrong


Fun snail


Durso standpipe


Bonnie and Clyde - 2 tank raised ora clowns

[Jayhawker518]

Anyone have any thoughts around my sum design? I know I need baffles but is it worth modifying my 10 gallon or should I upgrade and do it right?

[jfingers8]

upgrade and do it right. will be less headaches in the long run.

[jlylec]

I think you did a great job with the space you're limited to here. What is wrong with the sump baffles? That there isn't a bubble trap? You want the skimmer side to stay a constant depth so it looks right to me. Maybe I'm missing something though. You do appear to have a lot of salt creep which you could probably do something about. Where is the splashing coming from? The skimmer output?

I love the tank itself and have been considering building my own acrylic nano just like this. How hard was it to do?

[Jayhawker518]

Thanks for the comments jlylec. I dont have a bubble trap which is probably the biggest issues. Figured I need more water volume too.

The splashing is coming from the down pipe. Its wide open and comes down pretty quick. Which is probably why there is alot of salt creep. Possibly. Maybe if I open my durso pipe more and get more air it will be smoother?

In terms of building the acrylic tank. It was alot of fun. It wasnt to hard. There was a video I followed on YouTube. The hardest part was making sure all the edges were very flush to glue. I really liked the fact that I could design whatever I wanted.

Im in the process of my next one. I think its going to be bigger and a different design not just a square like every tank on here.

[Jayhawker518]

Anyone have any thoughts on how to better control my down pipe? It is very fast and quite noisy.

I dont want to adjust my valve because I like it better open and as an FYI its a durso standpipe Im using up top.

[jlylec]

Originally Posted by Jayhawker518

Anyone have any thoughts on how to better control my down pipe? It is very fast and quite noisy.

I dont want to adjust my valve because I like it better open and as an FYI its a durso standpipe Im using up top.

By "down pipe" you mean the drain line, right? Do you have it submerged? I can't really tell in the pics. I keep mine about 3-4" below the water line. It'll push the air out when it first gets started but then be silent.

[Jayhawker518]

Yes its submerged under water a couple inches. Yes sorry I mean drain line. I have an open back tank, and my front I havent really put on yet, it just sits there so I know thats part of the sound control issue.

Im getting alot of salt water creep near the top of my tank now too. Any idea what would be producing that?

[Jenzifer]

sounds cool

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by Jayhawker518

Drain and electrical equip

Ummmm.. I hate to be the bearer of bad news.. I'm not sure why you left the gap in the boards in the first place, but that MAY be OK... but unless the picture is decieving.. you have the bulkheads tightening down onto the wood (partially, the other part is in the air..) this is just asking for a leak, the bulkheads should be flush with the acrylic...

Also, your stand... it might not be a big deal because of the size of your tank, but the top and bottom frame should have the legs in between, so that the weight is supported by the frame and the ends of the 2x4's... right now its basically supported by the screws.. I also would be worried about the stand staying "square" the way its assembled... It will probably be fine.. but it would worry me.. But then again, I over-build things.

[cjk76]

Originally Posted by Meshmez

Also, your stand... it might not be a big deal because of the size of your tank, but the top and bottom frame should have the legs in between, so that the weight is supported by the frame and the ends of the 2x4's... right now its basically supported by the screws.. I also would be worried about the stand staying "square" the way its assembled... It will probably be fine.. but it would worry me.. But then again, I over-build things.

I'm a mechanical engineer. As long as the top piece of wood is lying flat to the legs, the legs are taking the weight. Looks like the 2x4s are simply keeping the legs together and are for decoration. The biggest issue would be if the stand twisted, which would not happen unless the house was in a tornado or earthquake or was hit by a truck. 4x4s are very strong and resist these movements.

No comment on your bulkheads as I cannot see how it is setup.

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by cjk76

I'm a mechanical engineer. As long as the top piece of wood is lying flat to the legs, the legs are taking the weight. Looks like the 2x4s are simply keeping the legs together and are for decoration. The biggest issue would be if the stand twisted, which would not happen unless the house was in a tornado or earthquake or was hit by a truck. 4x4s are very strong and resist these movements.

No comment on your bulkheads as I cannot see how it is setup.

I would agree, except looking at this pic

It appears the "legs" are not flush with the top of the frame, therefore the tank is resting on the frame which is only held by the screws. There are no 4x4's in the picture that i can see, so im not sure where that came from, the legs are 2x4's and they are in different orientations in the front and back, with nothing other than the frame around the outside and a couple screws to prevent twisting (though the sheathing on the outside helps with this too)

So basically, I stand by my statements.

P.S. you're not the only engineer around these parts.

[danderso]

It looks like the tops of the legs are flush to me so with the top piece flat i agree with the first engineer. I would worry about it racking or twisting except that the finish pieces should act as sheathing.
Certified general contractor here. Lol

[danderso]

It looks like the tops of the legs are flush to me so with the top piece flat i agree with the first engineer. I would worry about it racking or twisting except that the finish pieces should act as sheathing.
Certified general contractor here. Lol

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by danderso

It looks like the tops of the legs are flush to me so with the top piece flat i agree with the first engineer. I would worry about it racking or twisting except that the finish pieces should act as sheathing.
Certified general contractor here. Lol

Like i said, if it is flush i agree. to me the top two corners look like they are below the frame. maybe its just the shadow.

[cjk76]

Simply wanted to add background to my statements. But I'm glad I'm being checked by some peers. Thought the legs were larger, but I would think they would still hold. I guess you could always install a triangle piece |\|, but they might be over building. Haha