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01/13/2012, 09:05 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 68
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lighting question
Hi, I became a member of this forum last evening. I've been keeping saltwater fish for >20 years. Reef keeping for about 13 years. I now own a 180 gal. reeftank and I'm not really happy with results that I've been seeing and I'd like take a fresh look at my setup. When I first started my reef tank it was a 150 gal. Lighting consisted of a canopy with 3 175 watt. MH's, and 2 48" actinics 50/50 40 watt. My water parmeters are fine(and stable). The few surviving corals are not really thriving and new ones eventually don't open and just fade away. I change the bulbs @ appropriate intervals and I'm wondering is this canopy adequate for a 180 gal. reeftank. I'd really appreciate an objective and educated opinion from some of you experienced reefkeeper. Thanks.
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01/13/2012, 11:28 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Garden Grove, Ca
Posts: 17,023
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The lighting is fine for soft corals, but lacking for the high light demanding corals like SPS (it will be okay for high light corals at the upper 1/2 to 1/3 of your tank). List your water parameters (Temp, Salinity, Alk, Ph, Ca, Mg), we may be able to spot a deficiency and offer solutions. A list of your equipment would also help.
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01/13/2012, 01:55 PM | #3 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 504
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Quote:
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01/13/2012, 04:33 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,013
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The kelvin temperature, or better, the "correlated color temperature" of the lamps, is rather irrelevant. It is how we perceive the light, and aesthetic property, how it appears, rather than a useful measurement for photosynthesis. What matters is the PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) of the lamp. In what part the light spectrum, is the radiation from the lamp. Personally, I have raised SPS, and clams, in the sand, in 150 and 180 gallon tanks, 72 x 24 x 20, and 72 x 24 x 24, respectively, using 3 - 175 watt, 10k lamps, with no supplemental fluorescent tubes. (Actinic is useless anyway.) This was some years ago, and I have since moved to T5/HO. It is not just about the lights. You gotta feed these guys too. I think we are overestimating the amount of light these guys actually need, and demphasizing, caring for them.
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"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
01/13/2012, 11:36 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 68
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lighting question
Sorry for the delayed post, but job, daddy and husband (and late night cigar by the fire pit) delayed my response. My MH's are 14K. I have a Neptune systems aqua controller Jr. controlling heater, aquanetics ADIC drop in chiller. Iwaki MD-70 RLT main pump and lights. Precision marine calcium reactor controlled by a Milwaukee ph controller. Precision marine bullet protein skimmer. Turbelle stream Kit ( 2 pumps 6000 and 1 multicontroller). I utilize a refractometer to maintain spec. gr. Kent marine RO with automatic top off. I'm not sure what PAR means. My parameters are as follows:
temp. 76.6 ph 8.28 carbonate hardness 8dkH spec. gr. 1.023 phosphate 0 nitrate 20 ppm. nitrite 0 I know my calcium is low because I haven't run my reactor in about a year and a half due to a serious outbreak of slime algae. My local fish store (a sponsor) upon a home consultation couldn't find any problems suggested to discontinue the reactor. ( I think I the water and CO2 rates were too fast). The lights were also decreased so the slime alge is gone. So I installed a 10 gal. refugium and I think it had a great effect. Now I'm giving it another attempt. To be in the hobby for so long and admit to being so unsuccessful is a bit embarrassing, so any opinion would be greatly appreciated...Thanks |
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