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Unread 05/15/2012, 07:23 PM   #1
mlott132
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Question Plumbing Setup Question

I am getting ready to plumb my tank and have a few questions. My tank is 75 gallons that has two 1.5in bulkheads in the back that I am plumbing to a Trigger Systems Ruby 30 sump. The sump has two 1in inlets and the return pump has a 3/4in hose connection. At what point should I reduce the supply line, at the bulkhead or further down before I "Y" to the sump connections? For the return line should I also reduce right at the bulkhead? Then there is the question as to the type of pipe needed. What is the recommended hard pvc, sched 40 or 80? What is the recommended flex tubing that should be used? Would it be a good idea to add a check valve on the return line?


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Unread 05/15/2012, 07:51 PM   #2
BowedFloor
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Schedule 40 as its thinner.

What kind of standpipe are you running? Durso or herbie?

Yes to check valve on return. Prevents additional siphoning in the event of a power outage


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Unread 05/15/2012, 08:05 PM   #3
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I am going to be running an external durso. Kind of like this.




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Unread 05/15/2012, 08:07 PM   #4
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I cut 2 pieces of sch40 pvc and glued them to the bulk head and to one of the drains on the sump. I used flex tube for the drain and 3/4" vinyl tube for the return. I didnt bother with a check valve until i tested the sump and saw how much back siphoned in the event of a power outage. I added a ball valve on the return to dial back my pump. If i had 2 drains to the sump i would of split them closer to the sump and probably still used flex tubing.


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Unread 05/15/2012, 08:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew2007 View Post
I cut 2 pieces of sch40 pvc and glued them to the bulk head and to one of the drains on the sump. I used flex tube for the drain and 3/4" vinyl tube for the return. I didnt bother with a check valve until i tested the sump and saw how much back siphoned in the event of a power outage. I added a ball valve on the return to dial back my pump. If i had 2 drains to the sump i would of split them closer to the sump and probably still used flex tubing.
I basically have the same sump setup. Are you only using one of the inlet tubes on the Ruby and are you using filter socks?


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Unread 05/15/2012, 08:49 PM   #6
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I basically have the same sump setup. Are you only using one of the inlet tubes on the Ruby and are you using filter socks?
Yea im using only one inlet. Only have the one drain and it didnt make sense to split it and use both. I use the filter socks. I have 5 that i rotate. I go through 2 a week. People say its a nitrate factory or its tedious to change them out. I dont mind changing a few times a week. Keeps me in line with my tank and gives me time to check everything and make sure things are running ok.


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Unread 05/15/2012, 09:15 PM   #7
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Do you clean and reuse or replace the sock? If you clean them, how?


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Unread 05/15/2012, 09:19 PM   #8
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Do you clean and reuse or replace the sock? If you clean them, how?
I clean and reuse them. I rinse them with tap water to get all the crap out that i can. Then i throw them in the washing machine and use bleach only. No detergent. Then i let them air dry. Good as new


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Unread 05/15/2012, 10:13 PM   #9
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Do you think it would hurt to split the supply into the sump but only use one inlet at a time. That way when I go to change the socks I could just valve over to the other input. Not sure if having the other sock with no flow would hurt the system.


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Unread 05/15/2012, 10:28 PM   #10
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Do you think it would hurt to split the supply into the sump but only use one inlet at a time. That way when I go to change the socks I could just valve over to the other input. Not sure if having the other sock with no flow would hurt the system.
It wouldnt hurt anything but the sock not being drained into will still get dirty just sitting in there. Your probably better off using both drains. Valving them both near the sump to adjust flow into the sump. I dont even turn anything off when changing socks. Just reach around the skimmer and swap em out.


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Unread 05/16/2012, 06:34 PM   #11
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After reviewing my setup I think I might make a couple changes. I am now thinking of using both bulkheads as supplies to the sump. I am going to use 1.5in down to the top of the stand to a valve. After the valve I will reduce down to 1in to the inlet of the sump. I was unsure how good the water would flow from the 3/4in return line once I increase it to 1.5 to go through the bulkhead. Now I am going to use a 3/4 flex line up to a return jet. I am hoping that this setup will be a little better.

I am still in debate on whether or not to use filter socks. Would like to hear feedback from others on the pros/cons. Also, what type of filter socks are you using; mesh or felt?


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Unread 05/16/2012, 06:58 PM   #12
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To be honest... You actually need about a 1.25-1.5 pipe for the suply line. There are several threads covering this. It has to do with line resistance/friction caused by pipe size, number of bends and type of bends. I upgraded my pipe after doing some reading up on it and the flow from my return almost doubled.

Also. There is a flow calculator on the home page for RC if you don't believe me!! Lol


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Unread 05/16/2012, 07:49 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Saltydrip View Post
To be honest... You actually need about a 1.25-1.5 pipe for the suply line. There are several threads covering this. It has to do with line resistance/friction caused by pipe size, number of bends and type of bends. I upgraded my pipe after doing some reading up on it and the flow from my return almost doubled.

Also. There is a flow calculator on the home page for RC if you don't believe me!! Lol
Are you talking about the supply from tank to sump or sump to tank? My sump input bulkheads are 1in and my pump is 3/4in.

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Unread 05/17/2012, 08:01 AM   #14
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Any comments on whether or not to use filter socks and if so what type?


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Unread 05/17/2012, 12:57 PM   #15
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Hey, where did you get the power control unit (black box thing)? I have been trying to find something like that myself without any luck. I'm at the point of just making one.


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Unread 05/17/2012, 01:34 PM   #16
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I mean the pump to DT line.


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Unread 05/17/2012, 01:39 PM   #17
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Even though the line out for your pump is 3/4 you still need to upsize the size of the pipe to reduce turbulence and resistance. Trust me. Go bigger


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Unread 05/17/2012, 01:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saltydrip View Post
Even though the line out for your pump is 3/4 you still need to upsize the size of the pipe to reduce turbulence and resistance. Trust me. Go bigger
So then I should increase my return to tank line from 3/4 to 1.25 or do you think that a 1in would do?

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Unread 05/17/2012, 03:43 PM   #19
mlott132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saltydrip View Post
To be honest... You actually need about a 1.25-1.5 pipe for the suply line. There are several threads covering this. It has to do with line resistance/friction caused by pipe size, number of bends and type of bends. I upgraded my pipe after doing some reading up on it and the flow from my return almost doubled.

Also. There is a flow calculator on the home page for RC if you don't believe me!! Lol
I used the drain/overflow size calculator with a flow rate of 661gpm. This is the flow rate of my skimmer and I assume that I want my return pump to match this flow. The result of the calculation was a min drain pipe diameter of 1.06in and min linear overflow size 10in. With that said, I am planning on still running the 1 1/2 return lines should I run 1 1/4 for supply to tank? This is what I have in mind as of this moment. Sorry for the crude picture. Let me know your thoughts?




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Unread 05/17/2012, 04:09 PM   #20
Saltydrip
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Lol. The pic is great.
That looks good to me. Be sure use a little bit of a soft line right at the pump to reduce vibration and noise.


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Unread 05/17/2012, 04:13 PM   #21
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Oh yea...
On the drain lines it really quiets things down then you use 2 45deg elbos instead of 1 90.
I'm told it improves flow on the pump line as well. The more water you run threw the sump the beter. You don't really need to match the skimmer. The more flow the beter.


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Unread 05/17/2012, 04:28 PM   #22
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Thanks for the help saltydrip. Yes, I was planning on using soft line just for that purpose. What do you think about my idea of having a "T" in the return to direct water to the refugium for balancing the flow? That way instead of creating more back pressure on the pump, that would possibly reduce it's life, I can send it back to the refugium.


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Unread 05/17/2012, 04:35 PM   #23
Saltydrip
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I think I looked at that Erin earlyer. I would have all the water go straight to the DT. That would really limit the volume of water flowing threw the system.


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Unread 05/17/2012, 04:43 PM   #24
mlott132
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OK. One last question. How should I terminate the pipe into the DT; elbow the pvc into DT, return jet( max size I could find was 1"), or 3/4" loc-line?


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Unread 05/18/2012, 07:03 PM   #25
Saltydrip
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I just have an elbo at the end of my return. I believe the very end of the return can be the same size as the outlet on your pump and won't reduce flow. If you have the extra for the 1in lock line I would use that, you can't go wrong with going a little big. I'll be upgrading to that myself soon seeing how I keep seeing snails go into my 1 1/4in return. It wories me some.


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