Help with Algae in Nano 28G tank

[Multiham]

Hoping I can get some suggestions. I have had my JBJ 28G Nano up and running since last July. This whole time I have been fighting algae and brown "stain" on my sand. I have read every post I can find on the subject. I do weekly tests on my water and everything is in line (no phosphates - I understand they may be zero because my algae is using it). I have also taken my water to be tested at my LFS and they also got the same results. I change 5 gallons of water every Saturday. I have also tried the following without any luck:

1. In Tank Media Basket with Chaeto, Chemi Pure Elite, Purigen
2. TLF Reactors - One running Carbon, One running Phospan
3. Spectrapure RO/DI purchase - Been using for last 3 months with no luck. Previously using distilled water
4. Prior to water changes, I manually pull as much algae as possible and siphon up
5. Reduced the duration of my lights. This is the 89W LED model. Was running for 8 hours per day. Now run for 4 hours
6. Total "lights out" in tank for 3 days
7. Changed to feeding tank once every 2 to 3 days. When feeding frozen, I use pipette and only put in what fish will eat while I'm there
8. Aquamaxx HOB-1 Skimmer
9. JBJ Chiller

During this year, I have added fish and have had great luck with them. Everything I have added is still alive except for a jawfish which jumped on me when I had the tank open and didn't see it.

I'm really frustrated and thinking of taking all the rock out and starting again. Sorry for the crappy picture. Any help is greatly appreciated!
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...m/DSC_0128.jpg

[agruetz]

What test kits are you using. Because an API nitrate and phosphate kit will show zero however they may still exist in sufficient quantities to cause issues. I had an issue with algae my first 4 - 5 months. I found that it is not a single approach that will beat it. It is everything together.

[Multiham]

Originally Posted by agruetz

What test kits are you using. Because an API nitrate and phosphate kit will show zero however they may still exist in sufficient quantities to cause issues. I had an issue with algae my first 4 - 5 months. I found that it is not a single approach that will beat it. It is everything together.

I've used both Seachem and Salifert. Also have had water tested at LFS. Agree with the not a single approach, but I've tried all the approaches listed and it is still getting worse. I've tried everything I have read about and I am at a point where I do not want to throw any more money at it. Don't know what else to try!

[mmmm4life]

im having same issue with my 30 gal bio cube I found that a couple turbo snails and nassieres snails for the floor them along with more often cleaning and reduced lighting time has slowly but surely is getting better

[Multiham]

Originally Posted by mmmm4life

im having same issue with my 30 gal bio cube I found that a couple turbo snails and nassieres snails for the floor them along with more often cleaning and reduced lighting time has slowly but surely is getting better

I've tried hermits and various snails without any luck. Have not tried Turbo's due to size.

What is really frustrating is I have another tank which is a JBJ 12G tank. Running nothing but the stock basket with Chemi-Pure and Purigen. Have had the tank up since November. Have never had any algae problems and I use the same water, salt, and food in this tank.

[mmmm4life]

Yeah the turbos can become a bit much but for the most part they keep to themself and never really mess with other stuff

[gmoney243]

I'm gona guess u started with dry rock? Your rocks probably have phos in them causing your algae.

Either way there's few ways to get rid of algae. My personal favorite is an algae scrubber. Cheap very effective if build right you'll never see algae again. Doesn't mean you have to get rid of skimmer either I hate when people assume that about algae scrubbers lol. Lots of designs made for all tanks if u look in right places.

Second would be to make sure you have a big skimmer and use bio-pellets. You can also use some liquid bacterias on market that combined with big skimmer should get rid of your algae.

Keep in mind also that if the phos are in your rocks bacteria dosing will cause it to come out faster you def want a good skimmer. Either method will take time to get rid of your algae. But in a month you should have it about gone.

Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2

[Multiham]

Originally Posted by gmoney243

I'm gona guess u started with dry rock? Your rocks probably have phos in them causing your algae.

Either way there's few ways to get rid of algae. My personal favorite is an algae scrubber. Cheap very effective if build right you'll never see algae again. Doesn't mean you have to get rid of skimmer either I hate when people assume that about algae scrubbers lol. Lots of designs made for all tanks if u look in right places.

Second would be to make sure you have a big skimmer and use bio-pellets. You can also use some liquid bacterias on market that combined with big skimmer should get rid of your algae.

Keep in mind also that if the phos are in your rocks bacteria dosing will cause it to come out faster you def want a good skimmer. Either method will take time to get rid of your algae. But in a month you should have it about gone.

Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2

Actually I started my tank with Live Rock from a very reputable On-Line Store. Running a Aquamaxx HOB-1 Protein Skimmer without any luck on changing status of algae (does a great job skimming thought!)

Will read up on Algae Scrubbers

[agruetz]

I use the same skimmer I have a 27G cube. So I have some more questions (I think this can be beaten)

Questions:
1) What salt mix do you use?
2) Is the tank near a window w/ direct sunlight

Here is what I do:

1) I feed fish daily only enough for the to eat quickly
2) Phyotoplankton 2 - 3x a week
3) Roti-feast 2 - 3x a week.
4) Reef Energy A/B 2ml Daily
5) Photo period is approximately 10 hours
- with T5HO's 18w
6) NO3:PO4-X 2ml per day (I did not start winning the battle until I did this). From what I can tell it is essentially a carbon dosing there may be other home grown methods just as effective however since I have such a small tank it is about as cost effect either way.

Clean up crew, includes 2 electric blue hermits, 1 Scarlet Hermit, Queen Conch for the sand (you have to supplement feed him though). 2 of those large Pyamid looking snails for get the name and a hand full of (3 or so) small blue legged hermits, and a hand full of small snails.

As you can see I feed a lot and have a pretty long photo period. I believe the NO3:PO4-X is what caused me to start winning the battle it is the only thing I changed before my cyano started killing off. However my one difference is I did show phosphates and nitrates in small levels (.75 nitrate and .08 phosphate).

[Multiham]

Originally Posted by agruetz

I use the same skimmer I have a 27G cube. So I have some more questions (I think this can be beaten)

Questions:
1) What salt mix do you use?
2) Is the tank near a window w/ direct sunlight

Here is what I do:

1) I feed fish daily only enough for the to eat quickly
2) Phyotoplankton 2 - 3x a week
3) Roti-feast 2 - 3x a week.
4) Reef Energy A/B 2ml Daily
5) Photo period is approximately 10 hours
- with T5HO's 18w
6) NO3:PO4-X 2ml per day (I did not start winning the battle until I did this). From what I can tell it is essentially a carbon dosing there may be other home grown methods just as effective however since I have such a small tank it is about as cost effect either way.

Clean up crew, includes 2 electric blue hermits, 1 Scarlet Hermit, Queen Conch for the sand (you have to supplement feed him though). 2 of those large Pyamid looking snails for get the name and a hand full of (3 or so) small blue legged hermits, and a hand full of small snails.

As you can see I feed a lot and have a pretty long photo period. I believe the NO3:PO4-X is what caused me to start winning the battle it is the only thing I changed before my cyano started killing off. However my one difference is I did show phosphates and nitrates in small levels (.75 nitrate and .08 phosphate).

Here is what I have

1. Reef Crystals Salt (All I've ever Used)
2. Not near any windows.
3. Have 2 Scarlet Hermits
4. Assorted small snails
5. Dosing Carbon and Phosban through 2 connected TLF reactors

I'm willing to try the P04-X but afraid I'll be double dosing carbon.

[agruetz]

Originally Posted by Multiham

Here is what I have

1. Reef Crystals Salt (All I've ever Used)
2. Not near any windows.
3. Have 2 Scarlet Hermits
4. Assorted small snails
5. Dosing Carbon and Phosban through 2 connected TLF reactors

I'm willing to try the P04-X but afraid I'll be double dosing carbon.

Try this first as I believe the PO4-X might be double dosing.

1) Test your RO/DO water for phosphates should be zero
2) Mix a new batch of salt and check that for phosphates.
- I was using this same salt and was working fine then all the sudden I could not get my phosphates below .08 regardless of water changes. It turned out the salt mix had contented phosphates. I switched to Salinity (not the only reason i switched) and w/ the PO4-X mine have been going down down down.

Now this being said I do not know if I just got a bad mix once, or the container was leaching them or what but definitely check this. This will make sure you do not have a phosphate source in your water. Let me know how that turns out.

[Multiham]

Originally Posted by agruetz

Try this first as I believe the PO4-X might be double dosing.

1) Test your RO/DO water for phosphates should be zero
2) Mix a new batch of salt and check that for phosphates.
- I was using this same salt and was working fine then all the sudden I could not get my phosphates below .08 regardless of water changes. It turned out the salt mix had contented phosphates. I switched to Salinity (not the only reason i switched) and w/ the PO4-X mine have been going down down down.

Now this being said I do not know if I just got a bad mix once, or the container was leaching them or what but definitely check this. This will make sure you do not have a phosphate source in your water. Let me know how that turns out.

I will make a new batch tonight and test it. I have tested the RO/DI water and everything is good. I'll post results. Thanks

[Multiham]

The mystery continues! Per my prior post I was going to test phosphates on both the water in the tank, my RO/DI water, and a fresh batch of saltwater I made today. Pulled out the Seachem Phosphate test and all 3 water samples tested as low as possible on the Phosphate scale. The samples turned bright yellow which is the lowest reading on the scale. Just to make sure the test is working, I ran it on the control water that Seachem provides and sure enough, the test showed the correct level of Phosphate in the control water.

I'm at a loss on what to do next. I'm really thinking of taking out the live rock I have had for a year and starting fresh with new rock. Have to figure out what to do with my fish while it cycles.

Any help to stop me from doing this is appreciated!!!!

[agruetz]

I am reaching for idea's at this point. However do you have a high range phosphate kit like an API or something handy? I took this form the sea chem site.

Hints
Sample volume is critical; you must use exactly one full stem of sample. Low phosphate levels generally develop faster (5-10 seconds) while higher levels take a bit longer (30 seconds). This kit is designed to measure low phosphate concentrations (< 0.05 to 3 mg/L). Very high concentrations will cause a precipitation of the reagent and consequently could be mistaken for a low reading. The appearance of tiny black or blue specks indicates beyond range concentrations. In such cases, prepare a known dilution of your sample with distilled water and test again.

Any chance you are seeing any of this?

[Multiham]

Originally Posted by agruetz

I am reaching for idea's at this point. However do you have a high range phosphate kit like an API or something handy? I took this form the sea chem site.

Hints
Sample volume is critical; you must use exactly one full stem of sample. Low phosphate levels generally develop faster (5-10 seconds) while higher levels take a bit longer (30 seconds). This kit is designed to measure low phosphate concentrations (< 0.05 to 3 mg/L). Very high concentrations will cause a precipitation of the reagent and consequently could be mistaken for a low reading. The appearance of tiny black or blue specks indicates beyond range concentrations. In such cases, prepare a known dilution of your sample with distilled water and test again.

Any chance you are seeing any of this?

First, I appreciate your help!! No, I didn't see any of the indicators mentioned above but I was not looking for them. I will do 2 things. First, I will test again and check this. Second, I will try another test kit. Probably won't be able to get one until the weekend.

One of the things I love about this hobby is the challenge of figuring things out. This one though has pushed me over the edge as I have tried everything I can think of!!

[agruetz]

I am out of idea's if it is not that...beyond a natural approach...like a sea hare or something that will really mow thru algae.