Do you run a chiller with your halides?

OCREEFLOVER · 06/09/2012, 09:37 PM

I'm thinking about a switch to metal halides from LEDs. Would I need to run a chiller? What would be my best fixture for a 40 breeder?

Aquaticlife 2 150w and 4 t5s

Sunlight supply Lumen max 250w

Any suggestions?

James77 · 06/09/2012, 09:42 PM

That is a tough question....

Halides do not equal chiller. But if you are in a hot climate, and your house is not climate controlled, a chiller may be needed. Here in the North East, summer temps hit the 90's for a couple months....I have never needed a chiller. On the hottest, meaning 100 degree days, I do struggle with heat. Simply keeping lights off with a controller solves that. Fans go a long way in cooling tanks.

Watts are watts, T5s do not help, they will heat the room the same. I'd suggest a 2x150 setup and use actinic LEDs. I just picked up a lighting system- 2x150 LumenMax with dual SLS ballast and new phoenix bulbs for $200. Best of bothworkds is LED supplements and Halides as the main lighting.

Mmiller40gt · 06/09/2012, 09:48 PM

175SE. 150DE has never impressed me. I love 250DE. Check the par difference on the 150 vs the 175

Six2seven · 06/09/2012, 09:50 PM

what kind of LEDs are you currently using? just wondering why you want to switch from LED to halides.

OCREEFLOVER · 06/09/2012, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James77

That is a tough question....

Halides do not equal chiller. But if you are in a hot climate, and your house is not climate controlled, a chiller may be needed. Here in the North East, summer temps hit the 90's for a couple months....I have never needed a chiller. On the hottest, meaning 100 degree days, I do struggle with heat. Simply keeping lights off with a controller solves that. Fans go a long way in cooling tanks.

Watts are watts, T5s do not help, they will heat the room the same. I'd suggest a 2x150 setup and use actinic LEDs. I just picked up a lighting system- 2x150 LumenMax with dual SLS ballast and new phoenix bulbs for $200. Best of bothworkds is LED supplements and Halides as the main lighting.

HQI or not? Would one 250w cover a 36" tank ok?

OCREEFLOVER · 06/09/2012, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Six2seven

what kind of LEDs are you currently using? just wondering why you want to switch from LED to halides.

Kessil A150W

Dot get me wrong they are a great little light. Just not for me.

James77 · 06/09/2012, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCREEFLOVER

HQI or not? Would one 250w cover a 36" tank ok?

Not really....

A really large reflecotr could, like the Lumenbright, LumenMAx or LumenArc large- but youd have light spill over front to back. Though you could block that.

OCREEFLOVER · 06/09/2012, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James77

Not really....

A really large reflecotr could, like the Lumenbright, LumenMAx or LumenArc large- but youd have light spill over front to back. Though you could block that.

What about this fixture?

http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticLi...TSHDT5-vi.html

dan-in-gr · 06/10/2012, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCREEFLOVER

What about this fixture?

http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticLi...TSHDT5-vi.html

Hi, I have seen those fixtures used on a couple of tanks at local pet store, they look and operate fine. Yes the dual 150's i a great way to go.

I have my chiller plumed with the sump return line and it turns on mostly in summer on very hot days. Right now it is 90 out yesterday and today. the chiller kicked on 5 times for 25 minutes roughtly each time. When ambient temps get into the 80's your tank water is going to heat up with whatever lighting you are useing, its just with halides it will kick on a little more. I seriouly believe that on very hot days, many guys do a dis-service to tank, by letting the temps get a little too high and many corals will start to suffer at 86 degrees or they turn lights out - either method does not help the long term success of your reef tank.

Yes, go with halides and get a small 1/10 hp or better yet a 1/5 hp chiller depending on your part of country and if you use central air or not.

OCREEFLOVER · 06/10/2012, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dan-in-gr

Hi, I have seen those fixtures used on a couple of tanks at local pet store, they look and operate fine. Yes the dual 150's i a great way to go.

I have my chiller plumed with the sump return line and it turns on mostly in summer on very hot days. Right now it is 90 out yesterday and today. the chiller kicked on 5 times for 25 minutes roughtly each time. When ambient temps get into the 80's your tank water is going to heat up with whatever lighting you are useing, its just with halides it will kick on a little more. I seriouly believe that on very hot days, many guys do a dis-service to tank, by letting the temps get a little too high and many corals will start to suffer at 86 degrees or they turn lights out - either method does not help the long term success of your reef tank.

Yes, go with halides and get a small 1/10 hp or better yet a 1/5 hp chiller depending on your part of country and if you use central air or not.

Great. Thank you for all the info. I will do some more research and go with halides.

Bluewater04 · 06/10/2012, 07:54 AM

I have 3 250w halides over a 5 foot tank and never had to use a chiller in ohio. I would say before buying a chiller test the light over the tank and see what it does. Also the height of the fixture also has alot to do with the temp of the tank as well.

allsps40 · 06/10/2012, 08:52 AM

I live in Arizona and we are already seeing 100-112 degree days. I have a 75G tank with 2 250W MH over it and I dont have a chiller or a fan running on the tank. Tank stays at about 78-80 degrees with just the house AC.

sirreal63 · 06/10/2012, 09:51 AM

There are really only a few cases where a chiller is necessary, you have livestock that requires a controlled or cooler water or your heat management is lacking. If your home is climate controlled and you design the setup to not hold in heat then you should not need a chiller.

One of the biggest mistakes someone can make is to get a chiller for their reef and try to keep the temp in a narrow range. If you use the chiller to prevent extremely high temps than that makes better sense. Most reefs run into the mid 80's and fluctuate greatly within the course of a day. Their has been a great deal of study on this in the past 8 years or so and the old adage of keeping the tank cool is just nonsense and not healthy for the tank.

The fixture you are looking at will be ok on a 40 breeder. I don't like 150's when run on an electronic ballast as it under powers the bulbs, (there are exceptions) but on that short tank it will not be an issue.

dan-in-gr · 06/10/2012, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allsps40

I live in Arizona and we are already seeing 100-112 degree days. I have a 75G tank with 2 250W MH over it and I dont have a chiller or a fan running on the tank. Tank stays at about 78-80 degrees with just the house AC.

Its hitting 90 out today for a second day in a row so we run chiller on tanks, by Tuesday the high temps are 77 for several days. Never had to experience 100 to 110 degree heat for over a day or two.

kevinatwat1 · 06/10/2012, 10:21 AM

i live in ohio and run 2 150 mh and no ac but run two fans and my tank never goes above 80

Fishbulb2 · 06/10/2012, 01:05 PM

I used a 250W MH on my 40 breeder previously and a chiller was definitely necessary in my particular condition. It lot had to do with the fact that the halide was enclosed in a canopy. Even with fans in the canopy it was not possible to bring the tank temps down. It will depend a lot on your set up. How far up will the fixture be above the tank? Will it be enclosed in a canopy or simply suspended over the tank? Will you have central air and what will you set it for? It's really hard to predict.

I found a single 250W SE bulb in a spider reflector to be way more than enough to light the full 36" of tank. Even the edges had no problem growing SPS coral. I also think a single bulb set up will simply be easier for you to maintain and have one less bulb to replace. It might be a matter of personal taste.

If you do end up needing a chiller, then a small 1/10 size unit will be all that you need. I ran a 1/10 current prime on my tank and it was a wonderful unit.

FB

OCREEFLOVER · 06/10/2012, 01:26 PM

Thanks guys for all the great info. I’m still torn between going with an "ALL IN ONE FIXTURE" or just mounting a single 250w halide and reflector. Or I could just go with a ATI 6 bulb T5 fixture for about the same price and not worry about a heat issue. To many decisions

jbonez · 06/10/2012, 01:32 PM

i love my 2 150w 14k phoenix bulbs my tank is growing nice...

Purple Rocks · 06/10/2012, 03:08 PM

I run 2 x 400w 10k, on my 180g.
4 x HO 54w actinic
Main display and another 100w on the refuge

The Halides are 14" off the water surface my tank in summer runs at 76-77 C.
No chiller, But my tank is located in the basement and well ventilated.
I consume approx 2g a day in fresh water.

I didnt need a chiller.

06/09/2012, 09:37 PM	#1
OCREEFLOVER Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Yuba City, Ca Posts: 189	Do you run a chiller with your halides? I'm thinking about a switch to metal halides from LEDs. Would I need to run a chiller? What would be my best fixture for a 40 breeder? Aquaticlife 2 150w and 4 t5s Sunlight supply Lumen max 250w Any suggestions?

06/09/2012, 09:42 PM	#2
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	That is a tough question.... Halides do not equal chiller. But if you are in a hot climate, and your house is not climate controlled, a chiller may be needed. Here in the North East, summer temps hit the 90's for a couple months....I have never needed a chiller. On the hottest, meaning 100 degree days, I do struggle with heat. Simply keeping lights off with a controller solves that. Fans go a long way in cooling tanks. Watts are watts, T5s do not help, they will heat the room the same. I'd suggest a 2x150 setup and use actinic LEDs. I just picked up a lighting system- 2x150 LumenMax with dual SLS ballast and new phoenix bulbs for $200. Best of bothworkds is LED supplements and Halides as the main lighting. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

06/09/2012, 09:50 PM	#4
Six2seven Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: San Pedro, CA Posts: 539	what kind of LEDs are you currently using? just wondering why you want to switch from LED to halides. __________________ Steve Rodriguez President - Los Angeles Reef Society www.LAreefsociety.org 150g SPS reef tank Current Tank Info: 150g SPS reef tank, 180g FOWLR tank.

06/10/2012, 08:52 AM	#12
allsps40 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 4,627	I live in Arizona and we are already seeing 100-112 degree days. I have a 75G tank with 2 250W MH over it and I dont have a chiller or a fan running on the tank. Tank stays at about 78-80 degrees with just the house AC. __________________ __________ Current Tank Info: Past reef tanks: 20H softy, 29G mixed reef, 55G mixed reef, 40B sps dominant mixed reef and 75G sps dominant mixed reef. No tank currently

06/10/2012, 09:51 AM	#13
sirreal63 Go Spurs Go!!! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Meadowlakes Texas Posts: 13,357	There are really only a few cases where a chiller is necessary, you have livestock that requires a controlled or cooler water or your heat management is lacking. If your home is climate controlled and you design the setup to not hold in heat then you should not need a chiller. One of the biggest mistakes someone can make is to get a chiller for their reef and try to keep the temp in a narrow range. If you use the chiller to prevent extremely high temps than that makes better sense. Most reefs run into the mid 80's and fluctuate greatly within the course of a day. Their has been a great deal of study on this in the past 8 years or so and the old adage of keeping the tank cool is just nonsense and not healthy for the tank. The fixture you are looking at will be ok on a 40 breeder. I don't like 150's when run on an electronic ballast as it under powers the bulbs, (there are exceptions) but on that short tank it will not be an issue. __________________ Jack No One has ever been seriously injured by using the search function. Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms should be a convenience store, not a government agency. Current Tank Info: Reefing the Pentagon.

06/09/2012, 09:48 PM	#3
Mmiller40gt arrogant reefer Join Date: May 2012 Location: N Texas Posts: 687	175SE. 150DE has never impressed me. I love 250DE. Check the par difference on the 150 vs the 175

06/10/2012, 07:54 AM	#11
Bluewater04 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: ohio Posts: 74	I have 3 250w halides over a 5 foot tank and never had to use a chiller in ohio. I would say before buying a chiller test the light over the tank and see what it does. Also the height of the fixture also has alot to do with the temp of the tank as well.

06/10/2012, 10:21 AM	#15
kevinatwat1 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Randolph,ohio Posts: 61	i live in ohio and run 2 150 mh and no ac but run two fans and my tank never goes above 80

06/10/2012, 01:05 PM	#16
Fishbulb2 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 1,807	I used a 250W MH on my 40 breeder previously and a chiller was definitely necessary in my particular condition. It lot had to do with the fact that the halide was enclosed in a canopy. Even with fans in the canopy it was not possible to bring the tank temps down. It will depend a lot on your set up. How far up will the fixture be above the tank? Will it be enclosed in a canopy or simply suspended over the tank? Will you have central air and what will you set it for? It's really hard to predict. I found a single 250W SE bulb in a spider reflector to be way more than enough to light the full 36" of tank. Even the edges had no problem growing SPS coral. I also think a single bulb set up will simply be easier for you to maintain and have one less bulb to replace. It might be a matter of personal taste. If you do end up needing a chiller, then a small 1/10 size unit will be all that you need. I ran a 1/10 current prime on my tank and it was a wonderful unit. FB __________________ Just getting back in, but trying to do it right! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies

06/10/2012, 01:26 PM	#17
OCREEFLOVER Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Yuba City, Ca Posts: 189	Thanks guys for all the great info. I’m still torn between going with an "ALL IN ONE FIXTURE" or just mounting a single 250w halide and reflector. Or I could just go with a ATI 6 bulb T5 fixture for about the same price and not worry about a heat issue. To many decisions

06/10/2012, 01:32 PM	#18
jbonez SALT LIFE Join Date: May 2008 Location: alabama Posts: 1,188	heres a recent pic... i love my 2 150w 14k phoenix bulbs my tank is growing nice... __________________ IT IS WHAT IT IS! Current Tank Info: 75GL MIXED REEF\|40B FRAG LIGHTING -4ft DIY 120 3W CREE LEDS ROYAL BLUES & COOL WHITES\| FLOW-vortech mp40 \| BRS HC GFO TLF REACTOR W/COBOLT MJ600\| REEF OCTOPUS BH90 SKIMMER\| TUNZE OSMOLATOR 3155 ATO W/MAGNETS\|REEF KEEPER ELITE.

06/10/2012, 03:08 PM	#19
Purple Rocks Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 81	I run 2 x 400w 10k, on my 180g. 4 x HO 54w actinic Main display and another 100w on the refuge The Halides are 14" off the water surface my tank in summer runs at 76-77 C. No chiller, But my tank is located in the basement and well ventilated. I consume approx 2g a day in fresh water. I didnt need a chiller. __________________ 180g Oceanic Mixed Reef, 4" DSB,180lbs rock 20g Sump, 60lbs shell - 75g refugium, 5" DSB 2 x 400w Sunpulse 10k running on Lumatek ballasts. & Growing bud the size of your forearm since 1999.