Relentless GHA

[RG21]

I have GHA in a newly cycled tank that is giving me a hard time. I've never had a gha outbreak since I've been in the hobby and I'm not sure how to get it under control. My params are all perfect, although I'm sure the algae is resulting in false 0s for Phos and nitrates. It's a 20g extra tall, running both a fudge with Chaeto, and running phosban as well. My photoperiod is 7hrs, running brand new CREE LEDs. I've got 4 turbos, a few Ceriths, 2 emerald crabs and a small starry blenny.

I can't necessarily manually remove it, because I have a permanent rock wall in it that doesn't allow me to take out and scrub the rocks, so Im going to have to rely on chemical treatment, CUC, herbivores, nutrient export, etc.. And make sure I have zero phosphates/nitrates. I'm just not sure where to start. I've removed as much of it by hand as possible while still in water. Now I'm running a small HOB filter to remove all the floating strands.

Anybody have any input? I tried to remove the real long strands so the CUC and blenny will touch it, because before they Wanted nothing to do with it.

Let me know what you think, thanks in advance!

[BigAl2007]

I think you might want to look into Santa Monica's new UAS which is designed for smaller tanks.


You'll want to evaluate the following:

A) Water change schedule/amount
B) Feeding amount and type of food
C) Bioload of the tank

[tomaquar]

Algafix is a great product if you are in a bind (IN MY EXPERIENCE). The down side is that it can be rough on some species. So if you only have hardy coral, dose according to directions and get yourself a tooth brush. Set up a dedicated filter is a good phosphate sponge because when the stuff starts to die it will come off the rock in large amounts. If you get it all out you will have exported most of your excess nutrients.

Not suggesting this is a substitute for good tank maintenance. its another option that is appropriate in certain circumstances.

Also if its on polyps or mushroom a 1 to 4 peroxide dip for ten minutes will clean them up nicely. If its bryopsis, get some Tech M and keep your Mg high.

[goettner]

I had the same problem.What helped me in the end was,shortening the ontime of your lights.I shortened blue lights from 12 hours to 10 hours.My daylights are on 6 hours.Everything is great now

180gal running 8 weeks now

[liver]

I would also maunually remove as much as you can. Get a small hose a little larger then airline tubing and siphon the the stuff into a filter sock in your sump. In essence you are vacuuming right off the rocks.

[RG21]

I went ahead and bought a toothbrush and took it to the rocks.. and wow what a difference! right now im running a temporary HOB filter to help remove it all from the water column. Ill also do a WC to help remove it as well as siphon the remaining gha from the sand bed. Hopefully the manual removal gives my chaeto a chance to catch up on the nutrient export and my phosban will start to do its work. Thanks for the help everyone

[sponger0]

Ok you can try the technique I did. It worked really well but I wouldnt recommend it if the rock is removable.

My 40 breeder after a few months developed a wall of hair algae on the back glass. So I had to figure out a was to remove it. So I turned off all the pumps. And scraped it off with a razor. But not all of it. Only partial. And then did a water change by syphoning out the loose hair algae.

Then did a water change and used a fish net to catch as much of the remaining lose stuff I could.

I no longer have a wall of hair algae.

But I did notice by doing this it would release Phos into the water so that is one thing to be cautious of