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Unread 08/04/2012, 09:07 AM   #1
BCreefmaker
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New 20G help

I am setting up a new 20G. It is a 21G Hagen euro style. I really want to drill the bottom on this one, and cannot decide between a Durso or Herbie style drain, and center round or corner round or center box or corner box or a once piece corner. Any suggestions would be great. I also had a question about the Durso overflow, Can the main drain have a large homemade pvc strainer on it to prevent overflows? or will it create additional noise? Most I have seen look pretty easy to clog with a sail ect.


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Unread 08/04/2012, 09:09 AM   #2
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Is there a site for finding out how much you can expect a bulkhead to drain approximately silently? Or is that just experience? My last herbie overflow made quite a bit of noise at ~250GPH But it was only 3/4" return with 2 elbows.


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Unread 08/04/2012, 03:31 PM   #3
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The overflow bow shape and placement are not all that critical in a 20 gallon tank, any of the listed options is fine so it comes down to which set up you think looks best. In a 20 gallon tank you should only be moving 100-200 GPH through the sump so a 1/2" return will be plenty big and a 3/4" drain line(lines if you drill a back-up drain which I strongly recommend) will more than handle the flow.


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Unread 08/04/2012, 05:16 PM   #4
daplatapus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCreefmaker View Post
Is there a site for finding out how much you can expect a bulkhead to drain approximately silently? Or is that just experience? My last herbie overflow made quite a bit of noise at ~250GPH But it was only 3/4" return with 2 elbows.
Hmmmm, not sure why a herbie would make noise. Are you sure you weren't running a duhrso? I've got a herbie on both my 20 gal cube and 77 DT with a basement sump (so 14' or so of water drop) and you can't hear a thing from it, nada...


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Unread 08/04/2012, 06:19 PM   #5
BCreefmaker
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Sorry, I have a durso overflow right now that makes noise, not a herbie. I had the two confused. So 3/4" lines will easily drain 200 GPH in durso or herbie style if there are no elbows?

Also does anyone have a trick to stop bulkheads from leaking when you install them? I always seem to have them drip at least a tiny amount.


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Unread 08/06/2012, 07:48 AM   #6
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I'm not sure about the durso, I'd imagine it should be able to take 200 gph. A herbie will do it no problem. Beananimal has a calculator on his website: http://beananimal.com/articles/hydra...-aquarist.aspx

Not that I'm an expert by any means, but usually when I've installed a bulk head I make sure both sides of the glass are nice and dry and clean. Then I moisten both sides of the rubber washer a bit with some water, just like running your finger with oil on an oil filter before putting it back on your car engine when doing an oil change. I think (IMHO) that this ensures the gasket is clean and it provides just that little bit of suction to the glass as you tighten it down.


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130 lbs Tonga LR, GFO and Carbon reactors, Tunze ozmolator ATO, 2- 20 gal QT tanks,

Current Tank Info: 80 gal display 48L X 24H X16D, 2 MP-40's, Odyssea 2-250W MH 4-HO T-5 Actinic's, 80 lbs Aragonite sand, 4 - 150W titanium heaters, Reeflo Baracuda return pump, 150gal sump, Filter Guys Reef Miser 6 stage + 1 Dual RO/DI, LifeReef 48" Skimmer
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Unread 08/06/2012, 11:46 AM   #7
BCreefmaker
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If I go herbie style, I have 3 bulkheads right now I can use. Would the best use for one 3/4" and two 1/2" bulkheads be a 1/2" main drain, a 1/2" return and a 3/4" emergency drain? Or Should I make a 3/4" main drain and a 1/2" emergency drain? Or should I get a second 3/4" bulkhead?


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Unread 08/06/2012, 02:27 PM   #8
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If you're wanting to use what you have, and going with the herbie, I think I'd go the 1/2" as the main drain (according to that calculator 1/2" with 24" drop will get you around 400 gph) then use the 3/4" as the emergency. You could even increase that 3/4" right at the bulkhead to 1" if you wanted.

What is the distance from the top of the water level in your main tank to the top of the water level in your sump?


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130 lbs Tonga LR, GFO and Carbon reactors, Tunze ozmolator ATO, 2- 20 gal QT tanks,

Current Tank Info: 80 gal display 48L X 24H X16D, 2 MP-40's, Odyssea 2-250W MH 4-HO T-5 Actinic's, 80 lbs Aragonite sand, 4 - 150W titanium heaters, Reeflo Baracuda return pump, 150gal sump, Filter Guys Reef Miser 6 stage + 1 Dual RO/DI, LifeReef 48" Skimmer
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Unread 08/07/2012, 01:02 PM   #9
BCreefmaker
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The distance to the sump will be about 24"

Can I put a strainer on the main herbie drain? or will cause more noise?


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Unread 08/07/2012, 02:06 PM   #10
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Yup, you sure can but not the safety. In my over flow I have a piece of pipe with tons of holes drilled through it. That way it lets bits of algae and stuff through but not something as big as snails that can clog the pipe. If you buy one of the strainers that normally can thread onto bulkheads, you may find you're cleaning it out lots, like everyday lots. I prefer having a filter sock in my sump to catch fine stuff rather than trying to clean a strainer all the time. Keep in mind your main drain will be totally submerged both in the overflow and in your sump. This creates a noiseless system and keeps your siphon. You will need a gate valve on your main drain as well to be able to regulate the flow.


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130 lbs Tonga LR, GFO and Carbon reactors, Tunze ozmolator ATO, 2- 20 gal QT tanks,

Current Tank Info: 80 gal display 48L X 24H X16D, 2 MP-40's, Odyssea 2-250W MH 4-HO T-5 Actinic's, 80 lbs Aragonite sand, 4 - 150W titanium heaters, Reeflo Baracuda return pump, 150gal sump, Filter Guys Reef Miser 6 stage + 1 Dual RO/DI, LifeReef 48" Skimmer
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