Help Water Testing Problem

Titobattilocchi · 05/14/2013, 09:06 PM

So I'm curing 130 lb. of rock in my display tank it has been 6 to 7 weeks, I have tested the water and the ammonia is still at .25 ppm to .50 ppm I figure a few more weeks then it should be done cycling I hope.

Now I have a quarantine tank that is a Long 20 gallon with a snowflake eel that has only been in there since Friday, the ammonia level in that tank reads .50 ppm. I figure that since it's a new tank that it needs to cycle. The 20 Long has new RO/DI water with new salt mixed in, No water from main tank has been added to any of my Quarantine Tanks.

So right know my display tank ammonia level is between .25 and .50ppm, Quarantine tank is at .50 ppm, I also have a coral quarantine tank that I set up with nothing in there. New water and new salt and my water is testing at .50 ppm Ammonia, how can that be if there is nothing even in the tank, no fish, no live rock, just a hang on the back filter witch is new, a heater and a power head. I have used this test kit on a freshwater Tank and the ammonia Level reads at 0 ppm so I know that the test kit is working, unless saltwater readings are different, than freshwater readings? Help

kurt_n · 05/14/2013, 10:15 PM

#1 - wrong sub-forum , but someone will probably move the post to where it will get more views! (This is the sub-forum for feedback/questions regarding the website itself.)

#2 - A snowflake eel in a 20g QT that hasn't cycled? Ummm... that's really not good. You probably want to rehome that creature to a local fish store until you can cycle an adequately sized tank for it.

#3 - Not sure what brand test kit you're using, but I know that API ammonia kits can be used for both freshwater and saltwater - but you need to use a different color chart depending on what type of water you're testing. Perhaps that's your issue?

Titobattilocchi · 05/15/2013, 06:28 AM

Thanks Didn't realize that this was for the web page. I'm new to the forum so not to sure where to post things at.

I have done a lot of readying and a lot of people have cycled their tank with an eel before. I'v heard they are supposed to be one of the hardiest fish to keep. It is only 8 inch or so. Plus the test kit I'm using is an API. I guess I need to get the other chart because it is for Freshwater.

telijah · 05/15/2013, 07:08 AM

For reference... In fresh water, .50ppm could be the same reading as 0ppm in salt. Also, a google image search of api fresh vs salt chart reveals that nitrate and nitrite readings use a different color chart, and then some other digging shows that the ph chemical is different as well. I would just get a whole salt water kit to be on the safe side, or just get the new chart, and a bottle of high range ph liquid.

Sk8r · 05/15/2013, 08:13 AM

Ammonia is lethal. No fish should be in any water that has an ammonia reading. Change the water. I don't use a cycled qt: I use a qt with clean water and an obsessively changed filter medium.

I've moved your thread to the New to Hobby forum. At the top of this forum is a collection of sticky posts that I hope will help you. First of all, do a 100% water change for your eel, and keep his filter scrupulously clean, no sand, no rock, and a piece of PVC pipe to hide in. I hope he will be ok.

You should now have your tank set up with sand and rock, as it will be when your eel is living there, and in process of cycling, which will take from 4 to 12 weeks.

AZBigJohn · 05/15/2013, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by telijah

For reference... In fresh water, .50ppm could be the same reading as 0ppm in salt. Also, a google image search of api fresh vs salt chart reveals that nitrate and nitrite readings use a different color chart, and then some other digging shows that the ph chemical is different as well. I would just get a whole salt water kit to be on the safe side, or just get the new chart, and a bottle of high range ph liquid.

By the way, Thanks for this info and picture. I used an API kit for my FOLWR tank for yeas, and, while I will get a different brand when it runs low, I never knew there was a different color chart for saltwater... Now I need to pull my kit and make sure I am using the right ones...

Cymonous · 05/15/2013, 08:45 AM

If you have had that kit for years, you may want to check the manufacturer date. I believe it is the Loc on the bottle. API test kits expire after 3 years. So, you may not want to wait till it runs low.

Titobattilocchi · 05/15/2013, 08:54 AM

Thanks everyone for all the help I will get a new test kit for saltwater or the chart so I will be spot on.

Titobattilocchi · 05/15/2013, 09:41 PM

So I got a salt water test kit and my ammonia level is at 0 on all my tanks. Didn't realize the freshwater test kit would be that much different. Thanks everyone for your help. Going to get the sand ready to put in the tank and get a clean up crew and weight for the eel to get off of quarantine. Does anyone know if you need to quarantine a clean up crew. I wouldn't think so since there is nothing to treat them with.

05/15/2013, 08:13 AM	#5
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	Ammonia is lethal. No fish should be in any water that has an ammonia reading. Change the water. I don't use a cycled qt: I use a qt with clean water and an obsessively changed filter medium. I've moved your thread to the New to Hobby forum. At the top of this forum is a collection of sticky posts that I hope will help you. First of all, do a 100% water change for your eel, and keep his filter scrupulously clean, no sand, no rock, and a piece of PVC pipe to hide in. I hope he will be ok. You should now have your tank set up with sand and rock, as it will be when your eel is living there, and in process of cycling, which will take from 4 to 12 weeks. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

05/15/2013, 08:45 AM	#7
Cymonous My Clown Attacks Me Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Akron, OH Posts: 2,105	If you have had that kit for years, you may want to check the manufacturer date. I believe it is the Loc on the bottle. API test kits expire after 3 years. So, you may not want to wait till it runs low. __________________ 100 Gallon Long with 20L sump 10 Gallon Office Tank Current Tank Info: 2 False Percula Clowns, One Spot Foxface, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Tail Damsel, Engineer Goby

05/14/2013, 09:06 PM	#1
Titobattilocchi Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 131	Help Water Testing Problem So I'm curing 130 lb. of rock in my display tank it has been 6 to 7 weeks, I have tested the water and the ammonia is still at .25 ppm to .50 ppm I figure a few more weeks then it should be done cycling I hope. Now I have a quarantine tank that is a Long 20 gallon with a snowflake eel that has only been in there since Friday, the ammonia level in that tank reads .50 ppm. I figure that since it's a new tank that it needs to cycle. The 20 Long has new RO/DI water with new salt mixed in, No water from main tank has been added to any of my Quarantine Tanks. So right know my display tank ammonia level is between .25 and .50ppm, Quarantine tank is at .50 ppm, I also have a coral quarantine tank that I set up with nothing in there. New water and new salt and my water is testing at .50 ppm Ammonia, how can that be if there is nothing even in the tank, no fish, no live rock, just a hang on the back filter witch is new, a heater and a power head. I have used this test kit on a freshwater Tank and the ammonia Level reads at 0 ppm so I know that the test kit is working, unless saltwater readings are different, than freshwater readings? Help Last edited by Titobattilocchi; 05/14/2013 at 09:14 PM.

05/14/2013, 10:15 PM	#2
kurt_n Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: WA Posts: 2,592	#1 - wrong sub-forum , but someone will probably move the post to where it will get more views! (This is the sub-forum for feedback/questions regarding the website itself.) #2 - A snowflake eel in a 20g QT that hasn't cycled? Ummm... that's really not good. You probably want to rehome that creature to a local fish store until you can cycle an adequately sized tank for it. #3 - Not sure what brand test kit you're using, but I know that API ammonia kits can be used for both freshwater and saltwater - but you need to use a different color chart depending on what type of water you're testing. Perhaps that's your issue?

05/15/2013, 06:28 AM	#3
Titobattilocchi Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 131	Thanks Didn't realize that this was for the web page. I'm new to the forum so not to sure where to post things at. I have done a lot of readying and a lot of people have cycled their tank with an eel before. I'v heard they are supposed to be one of the hardiest fish to keep. It is only 8 inch or so. Plus the test kit I'm using is an API. I guess I need to get the other chart because it is for Freshwater.

05/15/2013, 08:54 AM	#8
Titobattilocchi Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 131	Thanks everyone for all the help I will get a new test kit for saltwater or the chart so I will be spot on.

05/15/2013, 09:41 PM	#9
Titobattilocchi Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 131	So I got a salt water test kit and my ammonia level is at 0 on all my tanks. Didn't realize the freshwater test kit would be that much different. Thanks everyone for your help. Going to get the sand ready to put in the tank and get a clean up crew and weight for the eel to get off of quarantine. Does anyone know if you need to quarantine a clean up crew. I wouldn't think so since there is nothing to treat them with.