Herbie Method for DSA 65 Rimless- Need Help

rchavez · 07/28/2013, 09:14 AM

Hello, I would like to see if the Herbie overflow method would work on my new tank build. The tank will be in my living room and I would just like a quiet tank.

Specs:
65 DSA Rimless (Reef Ready)
2 x 3/4" Return holes drilled, 1 x 1 1/4 Drain hole drilled
PM 30 sump with 2 drains
Tunze adjustable return pump
I would prefer to hard plumb it, I'm tired of leaks and salt creep. (Open to suggestions)

Questions:
1. Can it work with the current holes drilled?
2. Should I use the 3/4 returns as the 2 Herbie drains?
3. Should I use 1 3/4 and the 1 1/4 holes for the 2 Herbie drains? (which one for the main & which one for the emergency)
4. Is this a good idea?

I have posted some pictures below. Thanks for your help!

phxreefer · 07/28/2013, 10:39 AM

I would use the 1 1/4" for the emergency and the 3/4" for the herbie. I have a 40b plumbed almost the same with 3/4" herbie and 1" emergency. The return is over the back. If i would have known about the herbie setup when i built that tank i would have done it just like yours with three holes, the third to accomidate the return.

Vinny Kreyling · 07/28/2013, 02:55 PM

Agreed on the 1 1/4 for the emergency.
Fine tuning the drains requires a Ball Valve.
I read that combining the drains and then a valve will help eliminate constant adjustments on a dual valve set up.
I can attest to this fact!
Someday I just might have to redo mine.

rchavez · 07/29/2013, 05:40 PM

Thanks for the responses guys. I was thinking using 1 of 3/4 drains as the gate valve drain and using the 1 1/4 drain as the emergency drain. The second 3/4 hole would be used for the return of course. Phxreefer, how did your setup turn out? Is it quiet?

LennyD4 · 07/29/2013, 05:48 PM

Hey, definitely go with the ball valves on the drain and return. Don't leave out unions either. I have unions on both my drains and also my return. They allow you to disconnect parts of your plumbing easily. I never used mine for the first year and a half but then my drain got fully clogged and got it unstuck by simply unscrewing the union and cleaning it out really quick.

mr.maroonsalty · 07/29/2013, 08:31 PM

I would run the syphon straight through the bulkhead with no standpipe; and use the larger bulkhead as your backup standpipe. 3/4" has a rather small area but it shouldn't have any problem syphoning what a pump through the same size pipe can send it.

07/29/2013, 08:31 PM	#6
mr.maroonsalty Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: upstateny Posts: 2,504	I would run the syphon straight through the bulkhead with no standpipe; and use the larger bulkhead as your backup standpipe. 3/4" has a rather small area but it shouldn't have any problem syphoning what a pump through the same size pipe can send it. __________________ Back from the dead! Current Tank Info: 140 dt reef

07/28/2013, 10:39 AM	#2
phxreefer Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 146	I would use the 1 1/4" for the emergency and the 3/4" for the herbie. I have a 40b plumbed almost the same with 3/4" herbie and 1" emergency. The return is over the back. If i would have known about the herbie setup when i built that tank i would have done it just like yours with three holes, the third to accomidate the return.

07/28/2013, 02:55 PM	#3
Vinny Kreyling Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Miller Place, NY Posts: 7,206	Agreed on the 1 1/4 for the emergency. Fine tuning the drains requires a Ball Valve. I read that combining the drains and then a valve will help eliminate constant adjustments on a dual valve set up. I can attest to this fact! Someday I just might have to redo mine.

07/29/2013, 05:40 PM	#4
rchavez Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 70	Thanks for the responses guys. I was thinking using 1 of 3/4 drains as the gate valve drain and using the 1 1/4 drain as the emergency drain. The second 3/4 hole would be used for the return of course. Phxreefer, how did your setup turn out? Is it quiet?

07/29/2013, 05:48 PM	#5
LennyD4 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 633	Hey, definitely go with the ball valves on the drain and return. Don't leave out unions either. I have unions on both my drains and also my return. They allow you to disconnect parts of your plumbing easily. I never used mine for the first year and a half but then my drain got fully clogged and got it unstuck by simply unscrewing the union and cleaning it out really quick.